Tractor Puller

Lunatic Fringe

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Hello all, new member here. Not new to performance engines, new to the BB6. Ran a 514 alcohol injected mini-rod puller 30 years ago, getting back into a limited class with a 300-6. Carbureted, gasoline, cast iron block rules.
MODS; Alum rods, 12.1 pistons w/ ported EFI head,(Q16 Race Gas),2.02 Int./1.6 Ex. w/1.7 roller rockers,MSD w/rev limiter, 1 3/4 3 into 1 upright headers, aluminum sheet metal intake. 3500 stall C4,9" rear.
Until we find a steel crank we'll run the CI one with an aftermarket damper. Since we don't have the room limitations of a stock vehicle, I hope to build a main girdle once I figure out how much I can space the oil pump down.
The BIG question I'm struggling with is camshaft. Will run a solid flat tappet for now, just not sure on specs.
Will post pics as soon as I figure that out.
 

Wesman07

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Welcome to the forum! Sounds like an interesting build. I am very curious as to what truck this is going in and what your plans are for the rear suspension?! Also, how are you mounting this motor??

I'm sure someone will chime in on your cam selection
 

pmuller9

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You are looking for peak torque just over 3500 rpm which works for the 300 six.
If you use a stepped header you can take better advantage of a tight LSA cam profile.

You will need the head flow numbers once the head is completed.
Then have Crower Cams and Jones Cams give you a recommendation

The cam profile will probably have around a 248 degree .050" duration on a 106 degree LSA. It will sound Nasty
Valve lift can be in the .550" to .575" range.

You can extend the oil pump as far as you need along as you increase the length of the hex drive shaft the same amount and shorten the oil pickup.

Are you also restricted to the stock iron head meaning No hybrid aluminum head?
 

Lunatic Fringe

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Thanks Pmuller9. 1 3/4-1 7/8-2" steps into the collector sound good? Head will be sent to the machine shop once all the parts get here. Cam number sounds very close to the Crower 19312.
 

Lunatic Fringe

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Haven't pulled the oil pan yet to determine how much we're spacing the pump, but do have an ARP drive from a 351 to shorten.
We will be doing a welded aluminum head at some point but we want to get this one running properly first. It may take a bit to find 3 heads that fit.
 

pmuller9

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Lunatic Fringe":2v3dpke1 said:
Thanks Pmuller9. 1 3/4-1 7/8-2" steps into the collector sound good? Head will be sent to the machine shop once all the parts get here. Cam number sounds very close to the Crower 19312.

The header and cam combination looks good.
it will require the EFI head to flow just over 200 cfm @ .600 valve lift.

I was going to recommend using a 1.6 ratio rocker until I remembered the lift doesn't include valve lash.
A 1.7 ratio rocker would put the actual valve lift at .575"
I prefer a steel rocker arm over aluminum.
The BBC roller rockers work on the 300 six head.
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/cca-1620-12

Use a 3/8" pushrod with Comp 3/8" adjustable guide plates.
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/cca-4839-8

Make a jig and weld the pairs together. The spacing is far enough apart where the plates want to turn when you tighten the studs.
https://www.dropbox.com/s/hw9cogn2posft ... 2.JPG?dl=0
The guide plate centers will be wider than the valve spacing centers because of the pusrod angle.
I used a 1.940" center to center on the guide plates.
You may want to double check that figure for your cylinder head

This is the same setup with 5/16" pushrods for a street engine. The stock pushrods shown (during Mock-up) was replaced with longer thick wall Manton pushrods for the correct geometry.
BBC Comp 1.6 ratio rocker arms.
https://www.dropbox.com/s/raics8rx0g9rx ... 5.JPG?dl=0
https://www.dropbox.com/s/dlwsfdl82ziie ... 4.JPG?dl=0

If a person wanted to spend the money they could buy the individual shaft mounted roller rockers and make a rocker stand that bolts to the existing stands on the head.
 

arse_sidewards

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pmuller9":30r09oci said:
Lunatic Fringe":30r09oci said:
If a person wanted to spend the money they could buy the individual shaft mounted roller rockers and make a rocker stand that bolts to the existing stands on the head.


https://www.fordsix.com/viewtopic.php?f=2&t=76571

There's a set of Jesel 2.0:1 rockers and a 3ft length of 3/8 O1 tool steel rod that have been sitting on my desk for a very long time now. It's a low priority. I don't like that the rocker arms are aluminum but considering the kid of use they're built for and how I'll use them I don't think longevity will be a problem.

With adjustable rockers you may be able to use push-rods from a Chevy 292 or something else that's taller than a 300 if the pedestal is the proper height.

You'll need a taller valve cover. That shouldn't be an issue if you can weld.
 

THE FRENCHTOWN FLYER

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I've been waiting for someone to try one of these in a puller.

I would suggest steel aftermarket rods. The only thing aluminum rods will buy you is the opportunity to change them out every couple of hours.

Do you shift gears during a pull? I suggest a GM Powerglide trans with a Turbo 400 input shaft. I also think a looser torque converter is what you will need. Maybe in the 5000 - 5500 range. Powerglides can be built with aftermarket parts to handle up to 2000 hp. Much more R & D work has been done on the 'glide that a C4.

I have two solid lifter cams that I would like to either trade or sell for a hydraulic cam. I am building a special engine that has to have a hydraulic cam.
 

Lunatic Fringe

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Thanks guys for the replies, they are appreciated.

Could someone tell me if the pictures are there? If so, it shows the aluminum rods and SS BBC rockers.
Got a set of 7/16 studs and 3/8 guide plates with them. Will cut and weld the guide plates to work.

Rods are billet GRP's,we don't shift and will only do 15-20 hooks this year.

Tires are 42" tall,132" rollout. With the 2.46 first will need to use a mid 5.00 ratio in the 9".

Because puller tires operate best with controlled slippage as opposed to the much more direct bite of a slick, it tends to be easier on transmissions. Had a C4 built 30 years ago when we sold our original tractor that is still in use.

If need be we have a slider clutch and Lenco.

FTF, could you provide the cam specs please?
 

pmuller9

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The only image I see is the engine in post#4

How long are the rods center to center?
 

Lunatic Fringe

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Ok, I'll keep trying on more pictures.

Lol, that's our core engine. Came out of a combine. The same farmer has another I'll grab in the spring.

Rod length is 6.57".
 

arse_sidewards

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THE FRENCHTOWN FLYER":2kazxiel said:
Do you shift gears during a pull?

With the head limitations on a 300 I don't think it's very well suited to any class long enough to shift gears. Shifting gears tends to favor high rpm power bands and high peak outputs because you can start at high rpm and drop it back down with a gear shift so you don't run out the top of your power band. That doesn't play to the 300s strengths.

A class that only allows OE heads, caps displacement in the 300ish ballpark and is too short of a pull to bother shifting gears would probably be ideal for the 300.
 

THE FRENCHTOWN FLYER

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Lunatic Fringe":gz66r4ve said:
FTF, could you provide the cam specs please?
Sure.

Cam #1:

Crane
274* I / 284* X
@ .050" - 231* I / 241* X
Gross lift .483" I / .486" X
LSA 110* w/3* adv built in
New. Old. Stock.

Cam #2

General Kinetics
310* I / 320* X
.354" I lobe lift (.570" w/ 1.61 RAR)
.371" X lobe lift (.597" w/ 1.61 RAR)
The fuel pump lobe has been ground off this one for aluminum rod clearance. This cam was used in an H/MP drag car that operated at 6800 - 7200 RPM.
Good Used Condition
 

Lunatic Fringe

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Cam #2

General Kinetics
310* I / 320* X
.354" I lobe lift (.570" w/ 1.61 RAR)
.371" X lobe lift (.597" w/ 1.61 RAR)
The fuel pump lobe has been ground off this one for aluminum rod clearance. This cam was used in an H/MP drag car that operated at 6800 - 7200 RPM.
Good Used Condition

I like this one, how much are you asking? Are there lifters with?
 

pmuller9

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The preference is not to use the high volume oil pump if possible because of the extra stress on the cam drive gear.

Having said that, If you use the solid lifters with the oiling hole in the lifter bottom (Highly recommended) and have extra bearing clearance with the aluminum rods then the extra oil volume will be needed.

I haven't restricted oil to the top. Others may have additional info.
 

arse_sidewards

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pmuller9":6dd8abg2 said:
The preference is not to use the high volume oil pump if possible because of the extra stress on the cam drive gear.

Wouldn't the hex drive shaft or the distributor gear be the weak link by a long ways? I wouldn't have thought the cam gear would be something you'd have to worry about.
 

pmuller9

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arse_sidewards":2xy0fsk6 said:
Wouldn't the hex drive shaft or the distributor gear be the weak link by a long ways? I wouldn't have thought the cam gear would be something you'd have to worry about.
OK I should have said Distributor gear.
The distributor gear wears faster and sometimes the gear pin shears.

Probably won't be a problem on a competition engine that runs only minutes during a season.
 

arse_sidewards

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pmuller9":1wb2ktnf said:
The distributor gear wears faster and sometimes the gear pin shears.

It's been awhile since I looked at one but does the gear have the female drive for the hex shaft of is the drive for the hex in the distributor itself (which is driven by the gear via the pin)?
 
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