Tractor Puller

Lunatic Fringe

Well-known member
Thanks guys, I'm very grateful for the input.

I had the bell blanks cut when the intake was water jet cut from 1/2" alum. 3" OD, radius machined to 1 3/4" ID. Done by my younger brother on an OLD manual lathe.

The head end of the runners are hammer formed to match the port shape and then pie cut to eliminate extra material. So the top of the runner is a bit flattened, but not as much as FTF suggested.( I can always revisit this if and when I build another.) External pie cut welds are ground off, internal welds will be ground later.

I have the benefit of owning a Boss 429 sheet metal intake built by Jon Kaase, so I'm using it as a guide.

Merry Christmas to all!
 

sandboxer

Well-known member
Looks beautiful LF!
I’m excited to get started on mine. Just bought some 5052 for plenum material. I wasn’t sure how thick to go on the tube given the port shape and bell entry, but pie cuts pretty much became the only option for the flange. I had thought of hammer forming my runners out of two pieces instead, but I haven’t finalized yet.
Thanks for the inspiration!

Now I need to figure out how to post pics from an iPhone...if that’s even possible.

S
 

Max_Effort

Well-known member
Supporter 2018
sandboxer":1geex12k said:
Looks beautiful LF!
I’m excited to get started on mine. Just bought some 5052 for plenum material. I wasn’t sure how thick to go on the tube given the port shape and bell entry, but pie cuts pretty much became the only option for the flange. I had thought of hammer forming my runners out of two pieces instead, but I haven’t finalized yet.
Thanks for the inspiration!

Now I need to figure out how to post pics from an iPhone...if that’s even possible.

S

This is from my iPhone.
Start with the attachment button in the first photo below.

Then it will open to the second photo, click add files, then the window will open, select photo library etc..., choose the photo and it will upload. Then select the place inline button.


FullSizeRender.jpg

FullSizeRender.jpg
 

Lunatic Fringe

Well-known member
sandboxer":13le3eyb said:
Looks beautiful LF!
I’m excited to get started on mine. Just bought some 5052 for plenum material. I wasn’t sure how thick to go on the tube given the port shape and bell entry, but pie cuts pretty much became the only option for the flange. I had thought of hammer forming my runners out of two pieces instead, but I haven’t finalized yet.
Thanks for the inspiration.

S

Thank you, sandboxer,should have added more details.

I used 1/8 5052 for the plenum. The runner wall thickness is also 1/8, but varies in the bend radius due to the forming process. I purchased them as U-Bends from Columbia River Mandrel Bending in Oregon. The ones I'm using are 2" OD, 11GA, 6061 in a 3" radius.


My runners are extremely short for 2 reasons. Using 1st gear in the trans, a 6.20 ratio in the 9" will allow the motor to hit max revs very quickly and hopefully stay there. There will be farm tractor style bodywork on it and I'm trying to keep the carb under the hood. If I was building one for a truck , I'd use longer runners.
 

sandboxer

Well-known member
98635454-A2C4-44B5-96E7-284B2D2766CD.jpeg9A983A8E-F8F6-4405-9575-7277C0770716.jpegF0CA138C-7F9C-417B-B9B4-DFADBA05ED91.jpegCF4B0098-8699-4F97-BAF1-5472C7D73452.jpeg69284BAB-BA2C-4373-97E4-1DF26C927FE0.jpeg

Ok, here goes.
This is a similar project to LF, but as an open wheel street rod. I’ll post more when there is significant progress.
S
 

sandboxer

Well-known member
Thanks Lunatic Fringe for the flanges. I hope to have photos soon of them attached to my intake. They are beautiful.
Thanks Max Effort for clarity on the process! Now I can share a bit.

I have a very narrow hood, monopost style, so my runners will be 16” long and straight out. I might have to support the plenum from a frame rail, as the engine is solidly mounted.
 

chad

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U'n Lunatic start frm the very begining, no?!!?
Nxt step? mining ur own iron ore!
:eek:
 

Lunatic Fringe

Well-known member
sandboxer":1f3gmg1h said:
Thanks Lunatic Fringe for the flanges. I hope to have photos soon of them attached to my intake. They are beautiful.
Thanks Max Effort for clarity on the process! Now I can share a bit.

I have a very narrow hood, monopost style, so my runners will be 16” long and straight out. I might have to support the plenum from a frame rail, as the engine is solidly mounted.

You're very welcome! since we're almost neighbours, if you're ever up this way let me know and stop by.
 

sandboxer

Well-known member
Thanks!
While not far off, as I love the track t’s, this is a project I drew on a napkin 10 years ago, built a wooden mock up frame for, and finally these past few months had the time to start.
I’ve always loved the single seat race cars of the early century, so a long skinny hood and Boattail back is in the works.
Ditto on the visit. Stop in some time.
S
 

Lunatic Fringe

Well-known member
Got my block back from the hot tank, time to thread chase all the holes and deburr the sharp edges. Before and after pictures of porting the oil passages in the filter mount. Still need to hit it with a 120 grit roll for final smoothing.IMG_1948.JPGIMG_1951.JPG
 

WorldChampGramp

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Lunatic Fringe":1u3j6lgj said:
pmuller9":1u3j6lgj said:
Look for pockets of sand/iron in the crankcase.
There can also be thin iron casting lines in the cam tunnel that can be removed.
https://www.dropbox.com/s/s6u3h61cke7kf ... 6.jpg?dl=0

Yes, unfortunately this one has some really ugly shrapnel in there. Like they used a dull chainsaw.


LF: Make sure you check the rear main web shelf above the rear main housing which is normally not very visable b/c we always [view things in the block webbing areas] from the oil pan bottom up. We use to use a mirror and were always surprised at what we "thought" was a ready to go super clean block prior to final assy.

:beer: Happy New Year to all :idea: Gramps
 

Lunatic Fringe

Well-known member
WorldChampGramp":1i26dyhb said:
Lunatic Fringe":1i26dyhb said:
pmuller9":1i26dyhb said:
Look for pockets of sand/iron in the crankcase.
There can also be thin iron casting lines in the cam tunnel that can be removed.
https://www.dropbox.com/s/s6u3h61cke7kf ... 6.jpg?dl=0

Yes, unfortunately this one has some really ugly shrapnel in there. Like they used a dull chainsaw.


LF: Make sure you check the rear main web shelf above the rear main housing which is normally not very visable b/c we always [view things in the block webbing areas] from the oil pan bottom up. We use to use a mirror and were always surprised at what we "thought" was a ready to go super clean block prior to final assy.

:beer: Happy New Year to all :idea: Gramps

The cam tunnel casting lines were a real PITA, but got them done.

Today I'll grab a mirror and look in that area, thanks Gramps!
 

Lunatic Fringe

Well-known member
Main studs in place, my girdle template clearanced to miss the rods and oil pan. Will be making a new template on the CNC to reflect the changes I've made. Once I'm happy with it, I'll draw it in CAD and send it out for Waterjet.IMG_1962.JPG
 

THE FRENCHTOWN FLYER

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It looks like you removed the strut that stabilizes the oil pickup tube. Remember to add a new one to keep the pickup from vibrating itself apart.
 

Fordman75

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THE FRENCHTOWN FLYER":2ghroxh0 said:
It looks like you removed the strut that stabilizes the oil pickup tube. Remember to add a new one to keep the pickup from vibrating itself apart.


It's in the pic just hard to see.
 
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