Understanding How to Make a Holley Sniper or HP crank sensor

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"Understanding How to Make a Holley Sniper or HP crank sensor"

The Sensors that work are SMP (Standard Motor Products) PC51 and PC74. There needs to be shielded wire to cut electrical interference from messing up the signal.

Holley recommends a 60-2 crank trigger wheel - that is ferric steel and not stainless or aluminum

post #16 and #166 for Spark firing

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I got a few more things done - decided to change the intake design to give more room between the plenum and the headers. Also, mounted the crankshaft sensor- it ended up being 180 degrees off of where I planned on putting it. It looks simple in the picture, but it took a long time to figure out Getting very close to having all my engine fabrication done - next step is to wire in the computer and start it up! I decided to abandon the 40 EDIS and go with coil on plug because I can fine tune the dwell more precisely. Hopefully the next time I post the engine will be complete and painted - getting excited pmuller9 thanks for the information. I'll be contacting them soon.

Finally figured out my stalling problem - it was heat related, but not the way I thought it was. The crank sensor bracket is made out of aluminum and when it got hot it expanded and pulled the crank sensor out of alignment. When cooled down it would re-align - so when I visually checked it, it always looked correct (tricky). Took it on several short drives and then a 100 mile trip with no problems! So after many hours of trouble-shooting by many different people, we have finally found the problem Also figured out the oil leak - the oil pan mating surface to the block is a little warped and needs to be flattened - so another problem solved. So I'm really enjoying driving the car - it's running reliably and performing as I'd hoped. I'm still running it a little bit rich so I need to fine tune and make a few adjustments to get it to it's peak performance.