Keith, I just changed my valve stem seals a week or two back. I used the old fashion method of keeping the valves from dropping into the cylinder.
1. removed valve cover which included removing various hoses, vacuum line, also the carb( did a rebuild).
2. remove rocker arm assembly, loosen I beleive its six attaching bolts turn each bolt like one full turn and then move to the next. This allows the pressure on rockers to be backed off evenly. Once all bolts are out, just lift out the rocker assembly. I then justed lifted out each push rod, keep them in order so it goes back the same way they came out. I cleaned and inspected the push rods. I replaced six of mine, some had slight bends, others appeared to be cracking. Also inspect all your rocker arms, there should be two oiling holes in each rocker arm(alot of mine were plugged).
3. I had picked up a valve spring compressor tool at my local Autozone, they have a tool rental/loaner program which cost you nothing if you bring the spring compressor back. Get the type of spring compressor for removing the valve springs with the head still on the car.
4. I pulled all the spark plugs.
5. Starting with cyclinder number 1(most forward), I looked into its spark plug hole using a light and turned over the engine, when the piston was near the top I stuff some soft 3/8" rope into the cyclinder about 3 feet leaving several inches of rope still hanging out of the spark plug hole. Then I turned over the engine until it stopped this will keep the valves from dropping. I like this method over using compressed air, because I felt more in control. I turned the engine clockwise that is when your looking down at the engine. I also was able to turn over the engine, just using the fan blades.
6. Using the spring compressor, compress the first most forward spring. Then I used a screwdriver and hammer to pop the keepers loose. Keeping in mind that there are alot of oil return holes in the head that these keepers can fall into, cover up all the oil return holes using rags. Some of the keepers where pretty stubborn getting off. Once the keepers are removed, just lift off the valve spring. Then lift off the old valve stem seal. Mine were all in pieces, and as hard as plastic not rubber any longer.
I lubed the new seal with motor oil and slid it over the valve stem. Reinstalled valve spring and its keepers. I used some engine assembly lube/grease to hold the keepers onto valve stem. Then remove the tension off the spring compressor. Repeat this procedure for all the rest of the valves. You will have to turn over the engine slightly, counter clockwise before you can pull he rope out of the cylinder.
7. Once your done with all the seals I lubed both ends of my push rods and the top of every valve with the motor assembly lube/grease.
8. Then reinstalled the rocker arm assembly, again tightening each bolt about one full turn, then moved onto next bolt, doing this until rocker arm assembly is pulled down and bolts are snug. Then I torqued each bolt to 35-40 foot pounds with my torque wrench.
9. Then I turned the engine over 3-4 complete times to watch the valve train opperate.
10. Reinstalled the valve cover with a new gasket.
11. reinstall all other parts you removed to take off the valve cover.
Good luck I hope this helps. By the way your post mentioned white smoke, white smoke is usually caused by coolant/antifreeze being burned. You may have a more serious problem. (bad head gasket, cracked head or block)
Lowell
