Water pumps

81slantnosewp

Well-known member
this list is surprisingly long

most water pumps will swap from block to block
flowkooler produces high performance waterpumps with their proprietary impeller unfortunately due to some irregularities in block casting the impeller can have interference issues hitting the first cylinder from one block to another most can be fixed by using two gaskets or a shim

i know from personal experience there are 2 sizes of radiator hose outlet correct me if im wrong 1 3/4" & 2" (how common are they?)

clockwise and counter clockwise pumps due to v belt and serpentine belt applications

there are multiple shaft sizes and pulley depths as well as pulley flanges(does anyone have an accurate chart)














Some of the older water pumps without the threaded pilot have the heater input tapped and some don't.

If you aren't running a heater core and want one less rubber line to leak it makes running some sort of hard line for the radiator bypass (you can't just delete it without having some other way for a limited amount of water to move past the thermostat) a plug and play affair. That said, you could yank the pipe out of an untapped one and tap it for whatever size it's already drilled for then get an AN adapter.

Not all water pumps have the untapped boss on the back side of the main inlet. I have seen a few pumps with that tapped and plugged. That would make a good place for a sensor if someone was curious about the temperature differential across the radiator. I've never seen this location used for anything from the factory.


The untapped boss at the 2-3:00 position on the casting seems to have disappeared around the time of EFI at least according to Rockauto part images. If someone had a oil to water type cooler that they wanted to feed with water from the cold side of the radiator (you should probably not do this for engine oil since it likes a higher temp than the cold side of the radiator) this would be a good place to tie into the system. I've never seen this location used for anything from the factory either.


Regarding serpentine pulleys, there are at least two sizes. I've only ever seen the smaller one once and it was on a van. There's a comparison picture I took floating around here somewhere. I'll take another whenever I run across it among my mountain of parts. I don't know what the bolt pattern is for the later pumps with the threaded pilot.


FYI I used 1984 on Rockausoas my search year to get the images for the pumps with the threaded pilot. The pumps with the unthreaded pilot are for an unknown year, I just grabbed the image off Uhaul's eBay store. Sorry for hot-linking but it looks like the max number of attachments has been reached.
{all images have been saved to fordsix gallery}
 
Can you please download and attach your images (in all your threads) instead of hot-linking them? These threads are great but they are going to go poof as URLs change and images become unavailable.
 

81slantnosewp

Well-known member
I'm actually doing just that slowly obviously these have already happened but I'm wondering what the best hosting and attachment process would be these photos are currently on my personal photobucket
 
81slantnosewp":3caqdjdr said:
I'm actually doing just that slowly obviously these have already happened but I'm wondering what the best hosting and attachment process would be these photos are currently on my personal photobucket

We allow direct attachments on this forum.
 

BigBlue94

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I use supermotors to host my pics. 13 years and have lost nothing. They go down from time to time, but always come back.

I am running a Flowkooler WP on my E5TE block with no spacer or any clearance issues. The 85 style uses the thread-on fan clutch. I was very impressed by the construction quality.
 
Some of the older water pumps without the threaded pilot have the heater input tapped and some don't.

If you aren't running a heater core and want one less rubber line to leak it makes running some sort of hard line for the radiator bypass (you can't just delete it without having some other way for a limited amount of water to move past the thermostat) a plug and play affair. That said, you could yank the pipe out of an untapped one and tap it for whatever size it's already drilled for then get an AN adapter.

Not all water pumps have the untapped boss on the back side of the main inlet. I have seen a few pumps with that tapped and plugged. That would make a good place for a sensor if someone was curious about the temperature differential across the radiator. I've never seen this location used for anything from the factory.

The untapped boss at the 2-3:00 position on the casting seems to have disappeared around the time of EFI at least according to Rockauto part images. If someone had a oil to water type cooler that they wanted to feed with water from the cold side of the radiator (you should probably not do this for engine oil since it likes a higher temp than the cold side of the radiator) this would be a good place to tie into the system. I've never seen this location used for anything from the factory either.

Regarding serpentine pulleys, there are at least two sizes. I've only ever seen the smaller one once and it was on a van. There's a comparison picture I took floating around here somewhere. I'll take another whenever I run across it among my mountain of parts. I don't know what the bolt pattern is for the later pumps with the threaded pilot.

FYI I used 1984 on Rockausoas my search year to get the images for the pumps with the threaded pilot. The pumps with the unthreaded pilot are for unknown year, I just grabbed the image off Uhaul's eBay store. Sorry for hot-linking but it looks like the max number of attachments has been reached.

s-l1600.jpg

s-l1600.jpg

43047-1_TOP_A__ra_p.jpg

252-632_Alternate2__ra_p.jpg
 

81slantnosewp

Well-known member
Great information I will get around to adding it to the original post and uploading the images to fordsix's image gallery I haven't heard of the main input being tapped perfect for some sensors I believe some fuel injected trucks had a sensor in that 3 o clock hole I've always thought it would be a great water to air intercooler point or maybe a trans cooler possible even a centrifugal supercharger oil cooler
 

guhfluh

Famous Member
81slantnosewp":26rrx627 said:
If you aren't running a heater core and want one less rubber line to leak it makes running some sort of hard line for the radiator bypass (you can't just delete it without having some other way for a limited amount of water to move past the thermostat) 
This is incorrect. All 240/300 vehicles were originally fitted with a heater shut off valve which completely blocked any coolant flow in the circuit when shut and no other coolant bypass.
 

guhfluh

Famous Member
arse_sidewards":rs6mt6x4 said:
Some of the older water pumps without the threaded pilot have the heater input tapped and some don't.

If you aren't running a heater core and want one less rubber line to leak it makes running some sort of hard line for the radiator bypass (you can't just delete it without having some other way for a limited amount of water to move past the thermostat) a plug and play affair. That said, you could yank the pipe out of an untapped one and tap it for whatever size it's already drilled for then get an AN adapter.

Not all water pumps have the untapped boss on the back side of the main inlet. I have seen a few pumps with that tapped and plugged. That would make a good place for a sensor if someone was curious about the temperature differential across the radiator. I've never seen this location used for anything from the factory.

The untapped boss at the 2-3:00 position on the casting seems to have disappeared around the time of EFI at least according to Rockauto part images. If someone had a oil to water type cooler that they wanted to feed with water from the cold side of the radiator (you should probably not do this for engine oil since it likes a higher temp than the cold side of the radiator) this would be a good place to tie into the system. I've never seen this location used for anything from the factory either.

Regarding serpentine pulleys, there are at least two sizes. I've only ever seen the smaller one once and it was on a van. There's a comparison picture I took floating around here somewhere. I'll take another whenever I run across it among my mountain of parts. I don't know what the bolt pattern is for the later pumps with the threaded pilot.

FYI I used 1984 on Rockausoas my search year to get the images for the pumps with the threaded pilot. The pumps with the unthreaded pilot are for unknown year, I just grabbed the image off Uhaul's eBay store. Sorry for hot-linking but it looks like the max number of attachments has been reached.

s-l1600.jpg

s-l1600.jpg

43047-1_TOP_A__ra_p.jpg

252-632_Alternate2__ra_p.jpg
Another thing is that you guys seem to allude to this point being a source for cool water from the radiator, but unfortunately it is not. All of those points on the water pump are low pressure water inlet to the pump, not a source for any water out. It could be used on the warm water outlet side of an oil cooler, but with the cooler drawing cold water directly from the bottom of the radiator.

*The one place for water out on the pump could be one connected to the hole on the side of the impeller.
 
guhfluh":1p1y3c2l said:
All 240/300 vehicles were originally fitted with a heater shut off valve which completely blocked any coolant flow in the circuit when shut and no other coolant bypass.

There are literally millions of F-series and E series (edit: without any sort of heater core bypass) and at least one TSB saying not to block that port that beg to differ


guhfluh":1p1y3c2l said:
Another thing is that you guys seem to allude to this point being a source for cool water from the radiator, but unfortunately it is not. All of the points on the water pump are low pressure water inlet to the pump, not a source for any water out. It could be used on the warm water outlet side of an oil cooler, but with the cooler drawing cold water directly from the bottom of the radiator.


Yeah. I realized my mistake as soon as I posted it. I thought I had edited my comment but I guess not. The hole isn't low enough relative to the impeller to get any forced flow. It would suck in coolant from wherever.
 

guhfluh

Famous Member
arse_sidewards":1at18je2 said:
guhfluh":1at18je2 said:
All 240/300 vehicles were originally fitted with a heater shut off valve which completely blocked any coolant flow in the circuit when shut and no other coolant bypass.

There are literally millions of F-series and E series and at least one TSB saying not to block that port that beg to differ


guhfluh":1at18je2 said:
Another thing is that you guys seem to allude to this point being a source for cool water from the radiator, but unfortunately it is not. All of the points on the water pump are low pressure water inlet to the pump, not a source for any water out. It could be used on the warm water outlet side of an oil cooler, but with the cooler drawing cold water directly from the bottom of the radiator.


Yeah. I realized my mistake as soon as I posted it. I thought I had edited my comment but I guess not. The hole isn't low enough relative to the impeller to get any forced flow. It would suck in coolant from wherever.

What does the TSB say?

And, see my edit.
 
guhfluh":21jq0zp2 said:
What does the TSB say?

And, see my edit.

It's been years and I don't recall the TSB number but it basically said "don't block the radiator bypass circuit because if you do that the coolant doesn't flow around the engine portion of the system very much until the thermostat opens and that could cause localized hot areas". It was more of a scolding than a TSB.
 

guhfluh

Famous Member
arse_sidewards":qa8lxl7u said:
guhfluh":qa8lxl7u said:
What does the TSB say?

And, see my edit.

It's been years and I don't recall the TSB number "don't block the radiator bypass circuit because if you do that the coolant doesn't flow around the engine portion of the system very much until the thermostat opens and that could cause localized hot areas". It was more of a scolding than a TSB.
It could cause some localized hot spots and steam build up and it is probably better to have some route for coolant/steam bypass, but by no means is it a problem to block off in all scenarios or run as millions of 240/300s have - with a heater shutoff valve closed.
 

sixtseventwo4d

Famous Member
Just something I'm pointing out and not "at" ; the thermostat should have a jiggle pellet or a small hole that been drilled to allow air or steam to purge from the system. This little air relief should be installed at the 12 o'clock position for best operation.
Another thing to remember is these were also used in industrial applications that didn't have a heater; the only major difference being a governed carburetor
 

sixtseventwo4d

Famous Member
Can anyone clarify the bonus where some impellors have flow openings on the back and some don't? Will it improve block circulation? Reduce cavitation? Reduce h.p. losses?
 

THE FRENCHTOWN FLYER

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Those openings don't help. They are merely for manufacturing - so the impeller can be stamped.
The BEST impeller is the early cast one with a volute scroll.
 
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