Welding Port Divider; Please Read

Williboy

Well-known member
Supporter 2018
I stopped by the machine shop that did my work(thru a rebuilder) and the owner said that to get my port divider welded in he would have to rebuild my intire head, due to the fact that the head needs to be preheated and that will possibly warp the head and loosen the guides.
To the cost of $400+/-.
The shop is pretty reputable and does top-end work.
Is this accruate???
What have others done????
The head was rebuilt a year or so ago and I wasn't aware of the port divider saga at that time.
At that cost I'm considering high-temp epoxy and a pin.
 
Why not do it like they used to here, with interference fit of the headers holding the thing? The resason was in various race classes, no head mods were allowed, so this counted as an exhaust change (permissible). It's proven successful.

That said, Ford never changed the centre port on the 2V heads even when they redesigned so much and spec'd headers as standard. Makes you wonder about its necessity.

Regards, Adam.
 
Honestly, if I were to do it again I would ditch the divider. Like Addo said Ford didn't add it. I havn't heard of any Aussie's having any problems with it not installed. PLUS, if you do install it be prepared to have it grinded alot to open back up the exhaust port.
 
Williboy, your machine shop gave you sound advice. when i had the intake milled it had several low spots which required filling in by brazing. the head is put in an oven & heated to 400 degrees F. this applys to the center exhaust divider. use nickle alloy welding rod when welding the divider in. after the head has cooled, it will probably have to be milled for flatness & replacement of freeze plugs & check guides & grind the seats again.
Do it right the first time. :D william
 
I'm about to pull mine since the epoxy didn't hold right since the Aussie head exhaust port was a lot different then my old US head. I'm of the same mindset...Why didn't Ford change it down under? I'm willing to beat it's all piece of mind.

Slade
 
Williboy, I like your idea of epoxy and pins. Addo's idea of interference fit together should work. I've just tack welded mine cold top and bottom. Top weld cracked - lower held & never came loose. I assume this is a US head. The object is not to weld the divider completely. You want an air gap. Ford designed the ribs between ports 3 & 4 to conduct exhaust heat to the intake manifold. Good for fuel economy -- bad for performance. I have never seen an OZ-2 valve but with intake being removable I assume that the exhaust does not heat up the intake manifold as it would with the US intake and exhaust being one piece. I think the bean counters are sleeping good. This is my opinion -- does anybody agree/disagree?
 
I think at best...the divider may give a 1% increase...so 1, maybe 2 HP. I'm removing mine because it's loose and I don't want to mess with it ever again.

Slade
 
i've had good luck heating the head on the gas grill - welding devider - let head heat down slowly leaving on grill to cool.
 
CorbaSix, did you use the high temp epoxy that was discussed on other post???

What about headers, is the divider necessary for sealing or to prevent gasket blow out??

If it's going to only add 1 or 2 hp, not necessary for sealing, then it's not worth the time or money to me to do it now.

I would like to think too, that if it was that big of issue, Ford would of addressed it long time ago.
 
I tacked my divider in with Muggyweld rod, it won't crack and will never come loose. I sure as heck didn't heat the entire head up other than about a one inch area around the tack welds. Jeez, it isn't 1950 anymore. 400 bucks for a couple tack welds is asinine. It would be cheaper to buy a round trip ticket, fly up here with the head, rent a car, and see the sights while I tacked the divider in. So find a shop that has heard of muggyweld rod, or buy some and bring it with you. Welding technology has evolved somewhat since the bad old days of junk nickel rod on preheated cast iron (weld/pray/crack/warp/junk).
Ford USA, Oz, and Agentina, didn't redesign the siamesed exhaust port design to improve performance because it would have been expensive to do. Not only would the head casting pattern have to be re-built along with the corresponding core molds, but the exhaust manifold would need to be redesigned and the gasket updated. The log head was never a performance design to begin with. And Ford did address the I6 performance problems, at first with a 260, then a 289, and 302.
The 3-4 exhaust port was designed to heat the carb base for better fuel mixing, not for efficient flow.
When Ford Oz decided to make the six more of a performance engine (crossflow), like proper engineers, they dumped the whole original head and started fresh.
The Argie's made the best of what they had and came up with the 221 ME and SP. The log and 3-4 siamesed portion of the exhaust ports has been eliminated. The head mold looks like it was just run through a bandsaw, much like the de-logged heads that a few of us have experimented with. No real retooling needed to cast a 221 head. Same thing with the Oz 2V head, just a hunk of the original head pattern was chopped off. It's cheap to remove sections off of an existing pattern, and very expensive to add.
If you don't use a divider when using headers, the exhaust gasses slam into an inch tall wall on the way out of the head. Not the best thing for breathing. You will see a LOT more than a 1% gain with a divider and headers. The stock cast manifold is crap, nobody interested in a performance increase is going to use it. I don't see much use in the divider if you are using a stock exhaust manifold in any case.
Rick(wrench)
 
To install my post divider i used an epoxy product from Aremco. It cost me $30, I have a bunch left over, and after several thousand miles driving the highway at 80 I have not had any problems. I do have an american head. I made a large post concerning this when I installed my head. That was probably in April as I remember.

I think the argument that "Ford didn't do it so it doesn't need to be done" is ridiculous. Ford also made the pinto which exploded. Ford and other auto makers don't do what's "right" they do what's economical.

I am a graduate level mechanical engineer and I attend a pretty good school in the US. There was a guy presenting the other day and from what I heard the crux of his presentation was this. There was an analysis done on a transmission that was going to be put into production by an auto manufacturer and they had analyzed the attributes of using needle bearings vs. using flat bushings in the transmission. They found that the needle bearings would triple the life of the transmission. The bushings cost 6c less per transmission. The auto maker decided to use the bushings.

-Dan in Atlanta
 
Not wanting to be argumentative, but a few points...

•The centre port was divided on the 2V heads by the choke heat coil.

•The centre port was reasonably redesigned; not just a pattern chop. I have also noted some 2Vs with more restricted exhausts than a standard head! The downfeed angle of the inlets differs to the stick head; yet more new pattern.

•Ford Oz used custom fabricated headers (two types) for ALL 2V installations. Given that they patterned up for an intake, and already cast manifolds, it would seem logical to assume that they would have pursued a cast manifold if they felt it would satisfy performance. I am sure one style of cast 2V exhaust manifold would have been cheaper than two header buy-ins.

Basically, all these things lead me to the assumption that they evaluated the performance, and decided it was not a significant issue. Maybe the choke coil was the clincher? :?
 
Tell you what...I'll dyno mine before and after I remove my old divider. It's in there good enough still to have an effect...and we'll see the before and after dynos and see if there is a significant difference. I'm willing to bet there isn't now more the 1% either way, which is trivial for the power output of these cars.

Let's not bring background or education in here...I always hate it when people do that. If you want to know my background, feel free to PM me and I'm sure you'll be more then satisfied. And no offense...but very few mechanical engineers are engine performance experts and very very few ME programs at most engineering schools ever cover engine and car performance, just how to design the pieces.

willi, I did use the same high temp epoxy as before. I think it failed because the aussie 250 head that I got did not have the groves in the exhaust port like my old US head did, thus the epoxy had to serve as more a structural piece and less as an adhesive. my old head still has the port divider in there firmly (can't remove it) after 15k miles of use.

Slade
 
Regardless of the install method, etc., I would be very interested in a divider "in" vs divider "out" comparo with headers. I'd feel safe entering into a gentleman's agreement of 5 bucks or a sixer of your favorite beer that it makes at least a 5 bhp difference, all else being equal. Win or lose, it would info worth having.
If the inconceivable happens, is it legal to ship beer across the country?
Rick(wrench)
:beer:
 
Rick, where did you get the muggyweld rod. none of my local welding vendors have never heard of it. They said the nicklel rod was the only one they know of. Need your help on a supplier & what amps did you stick weld it with or is it a torch rod?? Any help would be appreciated.
The dyno test slade brought up would be an interesting comparison. If a stock manifold was used the gain would be marginal. I would guess the more modified the engine is the benifit would be proportional with headers. The dyno will tell. Thanks willliam
 
I'll do a dyno test in a couple of weeks with the divider in. Then when I get the gaskets from Mike for my intake, I'll pull it and then remove the exhaust and port divider and get things together and run another dyno session on a day with as close a weather conditions as possible as the first run.

Slade
 
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Rick, I will underwrite Slade's bet if he loses. Your choice of Fosters, VB or Southwark Premium (I suggest the latter - as long as I can find it somewhere that will deliver to you).

Adam.
 
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