Welding Port Divider; Please Read
- Thread starter Williboy
- Start date
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Anonymous
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Hey, I just wrote this to say that in my previous post I didn't mean to say "I'm smarter than you cause I'm one of these" but I guess that's how it came off. I just said it cause we have a lot of lecturers at my school that otherwise I don't think I would ever have the opportunity to hear, and usually the lecturers have a lot of knowledge of what they are talking about. That's what I meant to say.
-Dan in Atlanta
-Dan in Atlanta
This post is getting better by the day!!!!!!!
Here's the website for muggyweld;
http://www.muggyweld.com/
Kinda pricey, but if it works....
Mike, I talked to Jim Grubbs at Grubbs MotorSports in the industrial center. He's the one who did all the machine work on my motor.
Who, what, where is Eddings????
Here's the website for muggyweld;
http://www.muggyweld.com/
Kinda pricey, but if it works....
Mike, I talked to Jim Grubbs at Grubbs MotorSports in the industrial center. He's the one who did all the machine work on my motor.
Who, what, where is Eddings????
A
Anonymous
Guest
My son has a 68 with a dual outlet header on an otherwise stock engine. We tried the epoxy method and it came loose, then we tried epoxy and al foil to make more of a glued/interferance fit. It stayed longer but eventually came loose and rattled. The divider has now been removed for the last 4 months with no leaks and the the old butt-o-meter seat of the of the pants feel is the same. We cant tell any difference with the divider in or out.
addo":1duosnhr said:I refuse to supply free Aussie beer to everyone on this thread.Slade":1duosnhr said:
No...just me... hehe
Dan...sorry, I understand the jist of your post. Basically you said car companies are always more concerned with the bottom line in the end and that we shouldn't assume that just because Ford didn't do it in Australia that doesn't mean they aren't needed.
Slade
A
Anonymous
Guest
I really like my installation of my port divider, makes me wish that I had a digital camera of my own so I could show yall. Like I said I used Aremco's Exhaust manifold putty. It was VERY easy to work with. I had the good fortune of a friend allowing me to use the lift in his shop for the install, otherwise I think it would have been 10x harder than it was.
I think when you install the port divider it is important to completely separate the exhaust ports. I am not at all convinced that welding in the port divider accomplishes this. With the putty I used I was able to build a wall behind the port divider that extended back until the head separated the ports, with welding I think there might be a space behind the port divider, towards the cylinders, which is not sealed. This makes the port divider ineffectual.
I am very interested to see dyno readings for this. I really believe that with the port divider installed properly and with engineered headers there should be a goodly sized difference between an engine with and without it installed. I am not sure that header manufacturers engineer anything, it might just be a couple of guys in the shop making something that fits. If the tubes are not of the proper length to amplify the waves then they really aren't much better than having an exhaust manifold. With the port divider installed you should be making a good bit more power from 1/3 of your engine, I would expect that to make some difference.
I guess we will see when the dyno reaults are posted.
-Dan in Atlanta
Also, I just checked and I installed the port divider at 41180 miles and I am now at 44605 miles with no rattle. That's roughly 3500 miles since May and no trouble yet.
I think when you install the port divider it is important to completely separate the exhaust ports. I am not at all convinced that welding in the port divider accomplishes this. With the putty I used I was able to build a wall behind the port divider that extended back until the head separated the ports, with welding I think there might be a space behind the port divider, towards the cylinders, which is not sealed. This makes the port divider ineffectual.
I am very interested to see dyno readings for this. I really believe that with the port divider installed properly and with engineered headers there should be a goodly sized difference between an engine with and without it installed. I am not sure that header manufacturers engineer anything, it might just be a couple of guys in the shop making something that fits. If the tubes are not of the proper length to amplify the waves then they really aren't much better than having an exhaust manifold. With the port divider installed you should be making a good bit more power from 1/3 of your engine, I would expect that to make some difference.
I guess we will see when the dyno reaults are posted.
-Dan in Atlanta
Also, I just checked and I installed the port divider at 41180 miles and I am now at 44605 miles with no rattle. That's roughly 3500 miles since May and no trouble yet.
that is the one on my aussie head before I installed it. As you can see, the head didn't have the grooves the US heads did which meant the epoxy had to act more structural and that is why I think my Aussie head epoxy'd divider failed. I used 3000* epoxy that we use on exhaust systems for gas turbines.
Slade
twentyover
Well-known member
I'm going to weigh in and say that it probably won't make more than 5 hp, but that's because most engines aren't tuned to the point where this will make a big difference. Remember, we're talking about what amounts to about 85 rwhp stock, maybe 125 with ozzie head and a bigger cam and good header/exhaust. 5 hp is 4-5 % improvement. It's my belief these cars are too softly tuned for the divider to make a huge difference.
As the tune is sharpened up, the hp improvemnt would increase- Colin Chapman did this on his Ford powered cars in the 50's since he was limited to a stock head.
Bottom line reads, we'll need temp, baro pressure and humidity at the time of the two runs to compare apples to apples. Any number without correction is just eyewash
As the tune is sharpened up, the hp improvemnt would increase- Colin Chapman did this on his Ford powered cars in the 50's since he was limited to a stock head.
Bottom line reads, we'll need temp, baro pressure and humidity at the time of the two runs to compare apples to apples. Any number without correction is just eyewash
.
. And if you insist they will ,make you PAY! 
Rick & mugsy, If the muggyweld works as good as it claims, then check with a local welder after you order the 77 or the 72 rod. www.muggyweld.com my local experience is not aware of this latest technology using this product. All they know is the old nickel rod procedure which requires the preheading of the head to 400 F.
For the other readers, this new procedure sounds great. Rick has had positive experience with this product. I'll trust his confidence in this product.
If i do another head modification with exhaust port divider or just filling in low areas of the log for a flat gasket surface i will definately try this product.
Their website looks very positive. Enclosed is a photo of my log filled in with brazing rod & jb weld for a decent gasket surface. :idea: william
For the other readers, this new procedure sounds great. Rick has had positive experience with this product. I'll trust his confidence in this product.
If i do another head modification with exhaust port divider or just filling in low areas of the log for a flat gasket surface i will definately try this product.
Their website looks very positive. Enclosed is a photo of my log filled in with brazing rod & jb weld for a decent gasket surface. :idea: william
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Anonymous
Guest
Took mine out 8 months ago, no problems. do it.
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