What can i do to a 82 I6 mustang???

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I just bought my daughter a 82 stang with the I6.I was wondering what mods i can do to beef up the power. Right now i have only worked on the looks.The I6 is alot better than a 4 banger so i am looking at ideas to make some power. What kind of junk yard treasures can i install on this car for beter performance????It is carbed too. I am used to FI.
 
Oh yeah, Canada, you are safe over emissions!

Get a 32/36 Weber or 5200 Holley 2-bbl, a Stovebolt adaptor, and a set of dual out Clifford Headers, or talk to FSPP about a special set for you. If the starter is low mount, like the v8 and 250 I6, then you'll be better off working through some options here. The Clifford dual out header is flimsy in the metal area, and needs thick aftermarket gaskets, and a Clifford port divider. Mike from FSPP is aware of the issues, and will help out if you are prepared to give the right information.

Go to the 5.0 V8 exhast system, and regulate the fuel pressure to 2 psi reduce fuel consumption. The early Weber 32/36 differs from the American 5200 Holley Weber in that it hates lots of fuel pressure.

The emissions gear and close mounted catalyst were very restrictive. The head breaths well, and it's just the feeback carb and exhast that upset it. The 1946 Holley is actually not a bad item, but its kind of small and isn't as easy to tune as the 2-bbl carb

Check Mark P's posts on Duraspark II mods.

If you like it with those mods, then adding six taller HSC 2.5 or 255 V8 will work very well for the built in Ford mess ups....pistons that park 50 thou below the deck face!

The Ford Six performance book is a mandatory purchase.

(I don't have mine yet, I'm a hyprocrite :oops: :oops: )
 
book is mandatory

that way, you dont do somethings and MISS OTHERS you could have done AT SAME TIME (d'oh)

chaz
 
Howdy 86 Caprirs:

Welcome to this Forum. You're with the best here. Your daughter is very luck to have a father like you. It would be helpful to have details like trans type, goals, budget limitations and your mechanical skill level. I don't know about environmentat laws in Alberta, but it is a good idea to check that out before you do something illegal.

Xtaxi has hit on the high points on getting your I6 to run. Since we don't know if you are willing to do major rebuild projects or simple bolt-ons it's hard to give useful advice. Another issue is the loss of cam timing due to advancing. It can be solved when you do a rebuild by buying an earlier (pre '72) timing set. FSPP has the timing set you need in a dual roller package.

The pluses for the '82 200 is that you have one of the best log heads that FoMoCo ever made. The down side is a relatively low compression ratio at 8:1 and the Model #1946 Holley carb. The best solution is when doing a valve job mill the head .075", add a three angle valve job with a back cut on the intake valves, install an exhaust port divider and modify the carb flange to accept direct mounting of a Holley/Weber or a 2300 Holley two barrel.

You also have an excellent electronic ignition system called the DuraSpark II. You can help power and mileage immediately by increasing the initial advance setting to about 14 degrees BTC.

It also has one of the best fresh air intake/air cleaner systems. Make sure the air cleaner filter is clean and fresh.

If your car has AC and you decide to go the header route, know that you will have to deal with a clearance issue with the AC compessor. An early log exhaust manifold ('68 to '72) and a custom exhaust system with a turbo type muffler would also be an improvement. Your stock dual cat system is one of the most restrictive Ford ever made. Anything you can do here to unrestrict flow will help all the way around.

Again, more details on vehicle specs, goals and budget would help us to be more specific.

Enjoy the trip.

Adios, David
 
Thanks for your help guy's.

Well the car is an automatic.Not sure what one.My skill level is awesome on the new vehicals due to the fact that i am a Ford Technician up here in the great white north. Right now are laws are after factory's not vehical's.Part of the Keoto Accord.I have a great knowledge of the new vehical down to about the 86 Fords with the EEC4 systems. Before that the cars are so simple and basic that it can actually be overwelming to play with. I am used to a million wires with multi-plexing and computer comminucations that when i look at a 1 barrel carb I go ?!?!?!?!?!?!?!? what the hell do i do here. I have modded alot of V8 engines just never played with carbs.

So what i want is a moddest powered vehical that feels good to drive. Right now the car is a nice driver and has good torque. But being the gearhead that likes to make more power with any engine!!!!!!I gotta play plus teach the daughter. The cat has been removed but the exhaust is weak. It has a 1 barrel carb on it and i was wondering what carb i could install on the engine. The one thing i am is a hands on guy and i like to find something from another car to fit on this one.What carb form what car can i use????What about cam selection???I also believe in junk yard performance.If i can buy something cheap and rebuild it and come out ahead......i am happy.......

So lay on your knowledge me and i will show the daughter how to spin the wrenches and learn by hands on....

Thanks again guys
Shane
 
The progrssive carb thats so popular can be pulled off of Pintos among others. you can buy a rebuilt one and adaptor from stovebolt for under $100.


The Handbook has a lot of this swap kinda stuff in it.
 
Howdy Back Shane and All:

You're probably aware that the intake manifold is not removeable from the head. This is also somewhat of a limitation in improving carburation. Your choices are a larger one barrel, an adapter and a two barrel, or modifying the log by machining to accept a two barrel without an adapter. The adapter raises the carb and air cleaner and complicates hood clearance. The funneling effect of the adapter limits the value of the larger carbs.

You didn't give miles or engine condition but, given your skills and willingness let me suggest that you do a valve job on this head with a few modifications and improvements. If you were to change the cam timing gear and chain at the same time, you would be a long ways to a good running '82 six.

While doing the valve job, increase compression by milling the head .075". This will also compensate for the difference in the stock shim head gasket and the replacement composite type gasket. Insist on a three angle valve job, and add a back cut to the intake valves. Get and install an exhaust port divider. Shim the stock spring .030" and use one piece retainers from a 4.0 V6 ford engine. Finally, machine off the one barrel carb flange to create a flat surface and an oval hole. This provides a mounting surface for the two barrel of your choice. At this point you can chose between a wide base two barrel like the Holley 2300s or an Autolite 2100, or the two stage two barrels Holley/Weber that Tony suggested. Each has advantages and shortcomings. All are easily rebuilt and very tuneable.

With this done, you are ready to tackle the exhaust. There is no good alternative to header(s). They are expensive, but worth it . Given your location in the north country, I'd suggest a single outlet, single exhaust system of 2" to 2 1/4" system, to keep up heat and flow to minimize rust due to condensation. The performance difference between single outlet and a dual system is minimal up to about 4,000 rpms. My header is HPC coated, inside and out. Coating is another expense that hurts, but pays in the long run.

Check with Mike at FSPP for details.

With thess things done, you've taken care of the limitations I mentioned in my 1st post; sad cam timing, wimpy carburetion and choking exhaust, and you've increased the flow and compression of the engine. Properly tuned you should have a different feeling venicle.

Most likely the rear gear is a 2.87 or a 3.08. If you can find a rear end with a 3.27 ratio that would be a big help with your C5 trans. Is most of your driving in town or highway. Either way the lower gear ratio will not be objectionable.

Be sure to keep us posted on your progress.

Adios, David
 
Is it a Mustang II?
I bought an 82 last year in hopes of getting a good donor engine and transmission.
I think I learned at that time that the engine is different from the 'normal' 170 and 200.
I received information to the effect that almost nothing I had would work with it.
I was able to trade it for an earlier Maverick so I'm back with a dodnor.
Check the engine casting code and ascertain what engine is indeed in the vehicle.
I didn't spend anytime checking any of this out so this is at this point here say on my part.
Just double check.
It may very well be a standard old I6.
I would be interested in what you find out.
Thanks.
DaveP
 
Great! well thanks for the help guys. I would like to put on a 2 barrel.If i have to take a grinder to it....Hey i am up for that. As far as i know, the engine is a 200 I6 and has about 200000km on it. It does not burn oil (just leaks it from the valve cover). So what CFM are the 2 barrels rated at. I had a 500cfm on my 79 Capri from a few years ago.It was on a V8 302 cid engine. Should i be looking for a 300-350 cfm carb.What should i get an air cleaner off of????The same car i swipe the 2 barrel carb off of??
Also shaving the head will raise the CR to what???? And is piston to valve clearance still good????no tap tap on the pistons with valves????
Thanks
Shane
 
The one off the Pinto's ranged I think most common and highest for that model is 270cfm. The non-progressive ones have higher ratings, but I dont know these off the top of my head. getting the air cleaner too is the easiest route as long as there are no hood clearance issues (it should not be if you remove the carb flange as suggested by CZLN6).
 
Howdy Back Shane:

We've had great luch with the early Autolite 2100 two barrels. We started with 1.08s that are rated at 287 cfm. That may be about right for a stock cammed 200 with an automatic. You will want to maintain as much of your '82s air cleaner Climatic systems, so you can get cool air in the summer and warmed air in the winter. The next size up is the Autolites used on the 351 engines, a 1.21, rated at 351 cfm. The number si cast into the side of the float bowl under the accelerator pump rod. It refers to the diameter of the venturi in inches. The black phonelic spacer used on some V8s makes an ideal template for your adapter and the size of the oval in the top of the manifold.

A 2300 Holley 350 would also work quite well.

I'll run some numbers on the compression calculator on our website, or you can do it yourself. Just click on the website below my signature. Read the sticky at the top of this forum to find out about gasket thickness and chamber sizes. Off the top of my head, my guess would be about 8.7:1- Perfect for regular 87 octane gas.

No worry about valve to piston clearance with stock cam, dished pistons and deck height.

Adios, David
 
Howdy Back Shane:

You '82 has a stock copression ratio of 8:1, Milling .020" will compensate for the difference in thickness between the OEM shim gasket @ .025" and a NAPA Victor composit gasket at .045". An additional cut of .030" shuld get you to 8.6:1. Another .010" will get to 8.9:1. You can safely mill this head up to .090" and still have a reliable mating surface. You would be wise to use hardened washer under the head bolts on reassembly. They will help spread the load and keep the head bolts from bottoming out in their holes.

What's the elevation where you live. If you're above 3,500 Ft. you can easily live with 8.9:1 and on regular gas or gasahol.

You could also do some polishing and smoothing in the combustion chamber to help eliminate and hot spots that might cause pre-ignition.

A stock cam is not a bad idea with an auto and in a daily driver, but you could benefit from some more lift and an adjustible rocker arm. Early 144s/170s & 200 (pre-'65) had adjustible rockers, but they used the same 1.5:1 ratio as you non-adjustible rockers. AzMike (FSPP) and Clifford have 1.6:1 adjustible roller tipped rocker wich will increase your cam lift by about .030" and it's an easy bolt-on.

Stay in touch.

Adios, David
 
I am about 1150 Meters above water line(just over 3000 Feet). So shaving about 0.080 off the head should give me about 9.2:1 CR?? Then with the stock cam,i add timming to about 14 degrees advanced.Swap to a bigger carb (1 barrel or 2??) cat has gone missing and exhaust is not restricted.That should give me a liitle kick in the arse?!?!?!
So were do i find the bigger 1 barrel carb from?????What vehical??? I am going to the local Pick and Pull to find the vehical to start stripping the parts off of. Or should i do the dual stock carbs on the vehical like i saw on here somewhere????
Also, where do i get the hardened washers????
Has anyone done a 4.9L Truck swap???Does it fit or not work with this vehical?????I see alot of them in the parts yards.
Shane
 
Howdy Back Shane:

The larger one barrel I'd be looking for is the Carter RBS, used on Maverick and Comet 250s from 1970 to about 1973. You will need to get the adapter that goes between the carb and the manifold too. If I were in your shoes, I'd adapt your stock air cleaner system to the larger one barrel. Your stock Holley #1946 one barrel is rated in the 190 range, but it is quite encumbered with eletronic feed back systems. The RBS is rated at 215 cfm and is a quite simple carb.

You may have to adapt fuel lines and linkage some.

Dual 2 stage two barrel Holley/Webers is a great idea, We hope to get around to it some day.

Hardened washers are available from Mr. Gasket Part #87, Pioneer #S-1018, or from GM for a chevy six. ARP #200-8512, has them but they are quite pricey. Be sure to clean the holes in the block with a bottoming tap before assembly too.

The 240/300 Ford Sixes are quite a considerably taller, longer and heavier then your 200. Anything is possible but it would take quite a bit of massaging to get one into an '82 Mustang.

Adios, David
 
Thanks for your help guys.I will let you know what i did to her car.
shane
 
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