What's the best type of c4 to put behind a turbo 250 xflow?

[Anonymous]

I have been led to believe the c4 (aka c9) out of the xd falcon 250 is the go.

Can you confirm or deny?

Would a c4 out of a cleveland or windsor v8 be as good?

I want to run a semi-automatic type set up or perhaps full manual valve body, but I dont want the shifts to be too harsh as the car is predominantely used for daily duties.

Any help is great.

Thanks.

 

[Anonymous]

yes xd ones are good ,,, put in the bw35 gears, the c4 ones are a weak spot, other than that ,,, kevlar bands,,, kevlar clutch pack, maybe the input shaft...

what hp are after, and what use.. been looking this up myself,,,,, do a search for c4 parts on the net youlll find heaps.... mostly US but good stuff

 

[xctasy]

The strength is based on the number of clutches and how well the stator and gearsets are packed. End float is critical, and the four cylinder C4's ran lowly clutch packs in things like Yank Pinto 2000's, but were still good for 170 hp or 160 foot pounds at the flywheel.

The US and Aussie Six cylinder had more clutches, the V8 had more again. Adding the 302 V8 clutch stuff, a little turbo Pinto could hack 450 hp/ 300 foot pounds. Form info from Bob Pinnell from Cortina and Capri V8 parts, Ford Australia standardised on the 302 clutches with the C9 IN the 250. A stock, pristine condition C9 or C10 should hack 250 hp/300 foot pounds if its in good shape. Rebuilt with a good Hole Shot or B&M shift kit, good clutches, the right servo pistons, competent assembly and the right stall ratio (Kayver's 2500 or higher torque converter), its nothing to hack 500 hp, 500 foot pounds behind a small block.


Aussie C4's are named after the C-series 1967, 1969, and 1970 date codes ex America. With the 1970 351 Windsors, they went to a Cleveland style gearbox, called it the C10, I think. C7 is the 1967 289 3-speed auto, C9 is the first of the six cylinder XT or XW automatics,from memory.

I suspect the 289/302 Windsor C7 wasn't the same as the later Aussie Ford automatics. With the 221/200/250 C9, the Cleveland C10 has the detachable bellhousing SBF case, all pretty much the same US made C4 gearbox.

As long as it fits the engine. Don't try and get an earlier trans before 1968, because you never know what Ford Australia did. Some C4's are case fill, some are pan fill, some have seven bolts holding the bellhousing to the transmission, and either a 4 bolt cast iron or 6 bolt cast iron removable bell housings The C7 may have had an integrated all alloy SBF case with internal bolts to swap the bellhousing over.

I'd check with Gassed250, Dynoed250, MarkZE. The local rebuilders charge a lot of money, but its world class, industrial strength stuff.

 

[Anonymous]

yes xd ones are good ,,, put in the bw35 gears, the c4 ones are a weak spot, other than that ,,, kevlar bands,,, kevlar clutch pack, maybe the input shaft...


what hp are after, and what use.. been looking this up myself,,,,, do a search for c4 parts on the net youlll find heaps.... mostly US but good stuff

Thanks for the tips guys.

A crossflow is going in my tc this summer. Still not sure exactly when I'm going to boost it (depends on how cheap I can do it). But either way I'm sick to death of the 15 minute 2nd to 3rd gear change my borgy has now, so a shift kitted c4 is going in with the crossflow regardless.

The car is for daily driving and strip probably once every couple of months.

 

[addo]

You can actually go through the BW if push comes to shove. Add up the costs of a warmed over C4 style box:

Purchase
Rebuild
Shift kit
Coolant lines
Auxilliary cooler
Stallie
Flexplate
Kickdown kit if aftermarket
Cable shifter

It runs away pretty fast. Jag DIY types are often well versed in the BW if you need to limp along some extra time.

Cheers, Adam.