WINTERIZING

66Sprinter

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Its that time of year...actually here in Germany we had 4 inches last night...but I am thinking ahead for winterizing.

For me that means driving the car only about once everymonth and starting it for 15 mins once per week. Any one with good tips on what to do and how to prepare the car for winter storage. I have a standard, non heated garage and cement floor.
 
Roll your car(or at least your tires) to different positions every week as well. Once a month can still give you flat spots in your radials.

My car is actually getting winterized this year, no driving at all until I get some work done on it. I plan on putting some Marvel Mystery Oil in all the cylinders and rotating by hand every week or so. I may at least crank the engine since I'm not doing engine work this year. All suspension work.

Slade
 
Ok this will work if you don't plan on any driving over the winter.

Change engine oil and filter.
check anti freeze. replace if necessary.
Start motor and at a fast idle spray storage fogging oil "can be found at any boat dealer" down the carb. about half a can.
Put car on jack stands if needed.
your done.

The fogging oil will keep the cylinders coated for extended periods. But if you start it you will have to refog.
 
Don't forget to fill the tank (so their is no room for condensation), put Sta-bol in the fuel, and run the engine for 5 to 10 minutes to get the fuel stabilizer up to the carb. Also don't forget to remove, or at least disconnect the battery.
 
Jammer":3o7n5qku said:
For me that means (...) starting it for 15 mins once per week.

What should that be good for?

engine will get warm to the touch, yes; but it won´t reach proper operating temperature. As a result, combustion will be poor, you´ll just promote carbon buildup on your plugs and elsewhere. Furthermore, your oil will slowly get saturated with acidic residues.
The quick rise and sudden fall in temperature will result in condensation of water in your exhaust - and some cylinder bores.
leaving the car idling means the oil pump will be running at its minimum capacity, meaning low oil pressure plus it´ll lack cam lubrication. The alternator won´t charge your battery much either when idling.

I´d keep it garaged and leave it alone until the opportunity of driving arrives. If you plan for a longer period of storage (like two or more months), the car should be thoroughly cleaned inside and out (road grime and dirt attract moisture), the windows rolled down just an inch, and an oil change performed so you have clean fresh oil without any saturations in your engine. on a stick tranny car, some folks like to put something heavy on the left pedal to declutch.
some engine oil or marvel mystery oil squirted into the cylinders is a cheap precaution as well on a long time storage.

full tank (no gasohol/ E85!) is mandatory IMO, as is disconnecting the battery.

chaz mentioned putting the car on jackstands, though being a good idea that might damage ball joints and strut rods - eventually. I am yet to see proof of that. A second set of wheels with junk tires would do the job as well.
 
oh, I forgot to add...and then put something under the wheels so the full weight isnt hanging on theball joints, which may get damaged...

:) :oops:
 
I'm driving my Comet aaallllll winter. In Chicago! The fun part is getting her started after she's sat for a couple days.
 
there are only two things to be aware of:

1. the moron than runs into me

2. salt


remember, cold air makes more power!
 
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