XE electronic distributor into XY

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Hi ya, first off, good to finally find somewhere with 250-2V info, many questions answered already. I have searched high and low, and excuse me if the answer is already here somewhere. I have an XY Fairmont with a stock 250 on duel fuel, I haven't put on my newly acquired 2V head, 350 Holley etc. yet. But when I do what I am interested in is an electronic distributor. What I gather from reading all these posts is the best option is an XE Bosch unit. Ok, knowing that, what I still am not sure of is, can I simply remove my XY unit, and slide the XE unit into the block? Is it really that simple a swap? Are the holes the same size?. I understand about wear and tear and would be up for a rebuilt one. But assuming I had a perfect unit, is just out with old, and bolt in the new? I guess we can't just go down to Ford, Repco, Bursons or wherever and get a complete total new one, body, internals, module, cap, and all?

Thanks guys....be gentle, it's my first time. :oops:
 
Get a used one, and have it rebuilt. You need to sacrifice an XW-XB distributor for the shaft and gear as they are different in size; this part is joined to the XE advance and upper shaft assembly and a new bush installed. Then it's recurved to suit.

I use a place in Nunawading, but apparently there's somewhere called Ignition Torque in Bayswater...

Cheers, Adam.
 
Thanks mate. I didn't really think it would be that simple as off and on. I do have a spare XY one so I will take your advice and head off to the wreckers and investigate the XE. I am close to both Bayswater and Nunawading so that sounds good to me if you don't mind telling me the name of the place in Nunawading? Do you know roughly the cost of a rebuild?

Thanks.
Mark.
 
Performance Ignitions is the other place.

I have paid between $40 and $60 for the rebuildable XE unit, with coil. If the coil has been lying down it's no use - cooling oil seeps out the vent. If that is the case, buy a Bosch HEC-716.

Make sure the black-sheathed, red & green lead from dizzy to coil is intact and long enough, or you'll be paying extra for another.

The relevant docket says in late 2003, I paid $240 including postage to me, for the modifications and recurve.

Spare modules are handy and the size of a matchbox. Steal one from the next dumped Corolla, Magna, Camira you find - they're all the same.

Unplug the resistance wire near the master cylinder (pinky-red male/female conection outside the loom tape), and run a full 12V from the key to the coil. If you choose the HEC coil, use the original 12V to switch a relay with thicker wire. Bodgy wiring is the biggest risk and it's easy enough to avoid with a little time and effort.

Hope this helps clear it up a little.
 
Never save money on ignition unless you've got a spares or all the info.

Everything addo has said is spot on becasue it'll give you years of relioable service, and its easy to get parts for these so called '64' ignition systems

Heres' the rundown on Aussie Bosch ignitions.

Most Ford non cross flows (such as the 221ci) ran code 9230062606 (so called 62 series Motorcraft. It also ran a C8 12100 Motorcraft Ford code.

Then the there were the XA to XB 9230062604 (still a 62 series) with a 72DA 12100 code, stamped Motorcraft

Then there was the XC points 9230062623 and later XD points 9230062651

Ford ran some 63 series items in the V8's, similar to all of the pre HEI Holden 253/308 and local 215/245/265/318 Valiant units after 1976. Holden ran Lucas systems on there Holden sixes until 1976 to 1978, when the Bosch '62' unit found favour.

After that came the joint small cap Holden/Ford '64' series electronic, found in eveything from 3.3's to 4.1, 4.2, 4.9, 5.0, 5.8's. If it had a Motorcraft part number, its a Duraspark. If its just Bosch, its a Holden HEI. This means that Bosch Australia made lots of very similar parts for a small market.


Great thing is that means there is a huge array of parts around if you know where to look. Even the USA make parts for it, such as the Pertronix I #1865 unit , or the less reliable #91865 Ignitor II




The old trick was to run the Bosch conversion kit in the early 80's, where you could use one 'Ek 60' kit for every Falcon Holden or Valiant that had the Bosch '62' points distributor.

Somewhere, some at Bosch decided that we should buy the late 1980-1988 XE or XF or Holden XT5 (BLUE) or XT6 (Black) '64' series distributors instead, because they made the conversion kit unavialble. What is really funny is that the Camira/Nissan Pulsar/ Astra/ Mitsi/Holden 304 ignition coil unit looks like it is exactly the same as the early aftermarket Bosch unit!


The ignition stuff in Aussie is really the best around, as our Bosch/Motorcraft/Holden/Valiant stuff is very similar. They are compact, easy to get bits for, and are robust.There is little diffference between the later 64 sereis HEI/Duraspark to the earlier 62 and 63 series, with some of the vac advance units practically the same The HEC (Holden Engine Company) coil and any of the more common vacuum advance units are around, and the Holden stuff was bascially Fords Australias Bosch made Motorcraft Duraspark unit, but with the Holden shaft and alloy body on it. I can't think of any reason why you would skimp on spending 250 bucks on making an XE Ford Falcon unit fit .

I'm using the Pertronix 1865 one on my Cortina because I'm running the early XD points distributor. After mid 1980, Ford changed to the early US style 0.490" dia shaft so they could package the electronics in sde the stock Ford distributor cap. Before 1980, all x-flows and non Xflows ran a 0.530" dia. shaft. Crow Cams make two gears to suit either the post 1980 electronic, or the earlier points ignition. Part numbers are

DG2 Suit 6 XD on with 0.490" dist shaft.

DG2A Suit Falcon 6 points dist. with 0.530" shaft ,

A well run-in stock gear will work just as well, and is cheaper.
 
I've organised delivery of the US made Pertronix Ignitor I #1856 kit for my points XC/XD engine. Comes from Autopia in Christchurch.

Kit gives a full electronic ignition coversion for 160 bucks. Not hard to coble up!

The HQ racers use it for there Holden 202 racing formula.
 
Hi I have just been tackling the same job, but I found that the mounting bolt is a lot closer to the distributor hole and a fair amount of modifying had to be done to the distributor to get it to fit. Once I did get it in, it not work so any help would be appreciated. I did also use a coil pff an XE.
Are the gears etc all the same or do I need to change them?
:) Thanks
 
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