I6 tripower setup, using weber carbs and Offy intake

I finaly am to the poinjt of assemling the engine Clifford perfomance built for me. I am at the stage of adding the Weber snigle barrel carbs, 2-34ICT and 1-34ICTH. I have the progressive linkage kit Clifford supplied. The carbs came with no linkage and I am looking for suggestions on how to connect them to the progressive linkage setup. DOes anyone have any sugestions on what linkage I can use to connect the carbs from the progressive linkege? I intend on using a Lokar kit for the accelorator peddle.

Big question, the 134ch has an eletric momodule connected to it, what it the best place to tap into to provide it power.

ALso should I still hoook up a Manual Choke cable?

Now the Ignition debate..... I am leaning towards and Duraspark II with an MSD box. O have looked at some offered from Mallory and wonder if anyone has experience with any of this.

PICTUES.... do help me a lot.... ANy of you that have smiliar sets, could yu please include photos for mt to view.

Thanks getting me closer to being on the road!!!

here is a pic of my setup. the carb arms are from pierce manifolds part number 99005.316. click on the link they are towards the bottom of the page.the red arrow points to the cable throttle and universal mounting bracket. the stock linkage would not allow full throttle. the cable throttle and bracket come from both spectre and mr gasket (got mine at advance auto parts) I also used gas pedal from a 74 maverick which uses a cable throttle.



http://www.piercemanifolds.com/linkage.htm







[img]http://i305.photobucket.com/albums/nn214/falconsix/211001-1.jpg[/img]

Great link! My 200 is being buttoned up and I'll also be going with the tri-weber set up.

Would you have a PN for the K&Ns?

The part number you gave me 99005.316 is a good call, Thanks.... did you get the linkage that has the ball joints from Pierce also? ANd if not can you tell me what length to buy that at? The Weber carbs I bought (online) showed up today and the 34ICH has the fuel inlet facing towards the passenger fender and the 2- 34ICT's have the fueal inlet facing the valve cover... It looks like it would be simple to use one of the predrilled inlets to make them all face the same way. But I dont want to have to take the carburetor apart to do so, think I can drill it and tap it with out getting any shavings inside the carb? Also the 2 34ICT's do not fit directly on the studs on the Offy.... but the 34ich does.... is that common? Did you have to drill larger holes to get yours to go all the way on?

the linkage rods came with the offy tri-power manifold, they are 3" long and i had too bend them a little to keep them operating smoothly.As for the fuel inlets I used 3- I.C.T.s so they all come out on one side but i have seen a few setups where the center carb was re tapped. I would take the top off to redrill and tap a new inlet to keep any shavings out of the carb.for the mounting flange I used a dremel with a carbide bit and elongated the holes slightly to fit.Use a fuel pressure regulator set at 3 to 3 1/2 P.S.I. as the webers will flood with anything higher ,I think the stock fuel pump puts out 7 or 8 P.S.I.. the part # on the K&Ns are RC-2440.

charlie

So, when I take the top section off to make the new holes.... am I opening a "can of worms" or will it be pretty straight forward as far as putting it back together? I am hoping I do not have to reset or re-adjust anything inside.

I noticed you have your fuel lines coming from the valve cover side, and I have seen others that ran them on the exhaust header side. Does it make a difference? It seems to me that the fuel would heat up by before being delivered to the carbs by running the lines over the header.

On the back side of your ICT's there is a vaccum hose input.... did you cap it off or connect it ?

I capped off the vac. ports on the carbs. I am useing manifold vacume for the trans modulator and the distributor advance. I have seen the fuel lines run both ways but i agree about the heat issue the passenger side of the engine gets real hot, I have not had any vaporlock problems but I am going to build both a heat sheild and a ram air box to get cooler air to the carbs.no can of worms on the carb these are the simplest carbs i have ever worked on. take out the 4 top screws and the screw that holds the throttle return bracket on the side. if its not loose after the screws are out litely tap the top with the side of your screw driver handle. the only thing that could come loose is the float, pivot shaft and needle they are the only two moving parts in the carb top. heres a schematic of the weber 34 series carb. http://www.webercarbsdirect.com/v/vspfiles/weber_carburetor_schematics/34ICT.pdf. the only other thing that might change is the float level if the float arm gets accidently tweeked. you can check that by turning the top upside down and measureing the space between the gasket surface and the float which should be 6.50 mm. as mentioned the only (loose) or moving parts in the top cover are numbers 6,7 and 8 in the schematic.

when drilling out the plugs for the fuel inlet, make sure to use an npt tap and plug as it will seal better. the electric thingy on the the middle carb is the idle circuit power that immediately allows fuel to flow when the key is turned on to the idle passage and to turn the fuel off when power is removed( no diesling or run on!) It should have 12v ignition applied to it-where you get it is up to you as long as it is 12 v whenever the key is turned to the start and run positions.USE A FUSE!!!!! I too have aquired a mav pedal assembly as the stock linkage will not allow full throttle without bending the life out of it and opening up the firewall hole.

I got the stock throttle linkage to work with three webers. It wasn’t easy but it can be done. I used a solid steel rod and with a lot of heat applied and a great deal of trail and error you can bend a rod that will run behind the progressive linkage. I also had to heat and bend the main stock linkage some to get the right travel for the carbs to open up all the way. I also made a cold air intake for this setup that seems to work well. I’ll try and get all the photos I have posted to my photobucket. I hope these will show you what I did.

Gene

THayford, were you "hayford" on the forum some years ago?

If so, I just wanted to say "Welcome back" - good to see the project is coming along.

Cheers, Adam.

Yes same Hayford as before... I am finally getting to the point of setting the carbs up and then installing the engine back in the car. LIFE can really get in the way of a good home garage project.

h

Here is what I have so far..

Nice set up. Do you have any closeup pics of the linkage to the carbs? What linkage did you use from the webers to the linkage from Offy? I think I got shorted some parts in the kit that was sent to me from Clifford performance.

THayford":dr2c1tcz said:

Nice set up. Do you have any closeup pics of the linkage to the carbs? What linkage did you use from the webers to the linkage from Offy? I think I got shorted some parts in the kit that was sent to me from Clifford performance.

Click to expand...

A few simple observations for setting up the 3X1 linkage:

With the Offy adapter and Offy linkage, this is complete progressive setup working for the engine/carbs. Then center carb needs to be attached to the car's operating cable or rod type linkage. The Offy/Holley linkage is more or less "custom fit" for Falcon Six type Holley carbs. Some modification is probably needed whichever carbs you go with. Good thought on keeping fuel system away from Headers, I haven't had any problem thankfully.

In a '61 TriPower , I'm using '71 Maverick cable brackets for over the VC cable actutation. Here the the Holley 1904 Center carb Pull Pivot Ball is modified to conform to Carter YF position on Maverick.

thumb:



Cable bracket




Assuming you're using typical Progressive linkage, the center carb is the only concern with the linkage from driver. Driver accel pedal pressure or feel is a concern with the old Holleys setup's needed' strong return springs .

When I first fired up the engine, I used the known -good running original YF 1bbl with outer carbs blocked off for Cam run in concerns. I then needed to proof the carbs individually before using on the TriPower set. I try them on my other car a '63 170 wagon.


Making the outer carbs smoothly follow inner carb progressively to WOT open is more fun...

Has anyone ever thought of running all the carbs sinked in to run as one. I know gas mileage will drop but it will most likely be more responsive.