Trying to wade through cam choices

lavron

Well-known member
Doing some planning right now and trying to determine which cam to select, I guess it is best to let you know what my setup thus far is.

I have a large log 200 out of a 72 Maverick
Using multiple carbs (have a couple of Motorcraft 5740 going to try and use)
Mallory dual point with mech advance (may install a Petronix in it)
Pacesetter dual out header
Transmission undecided yet but will be manual probably a T-5, I need to decide on it as well would like the highest ratio OD I can get
Rear is a 8" with 4.11 gears

Looking to just be able to drive the car on the highway, probably no racing in my future, looking to build more of a canyon carver (no canyons around here but lots of curvy roads), mostly I would like to be able to take my car to get togethers etc.

Any suggestions? My current 170 has the triple Offy and a Clifford 264H.

See Ya,
Mike
 
Mike, what is your future as far as compression chamber size??
If you have stock dished pistons the top for you is 9.4. Flat tops will be in the 10.3-10.4 area.
Let us know your x-factors & i can steer you in the right direction.
Rocker arm ratio will make a cam larger with the same advertised duration.
 
wsa111":1oufs763 said:
Mike, what is your future as far as compression chamber size??
If you have stock dished pistons the top for you is 9.4. Flat tops will be in the 10.3-10.4 area.
Let us know your x-factors & i can steer you in the right direction.
Rocker arm ratio will make a cam larger with the same advertised duration.

Really haven't figured that out, currently everything is stock, as far as I know, I know David recommends the small dish pistons in the Falcon Performance Book, I don't want to raise compression too much, it needs to run on pump gas fine.
I am looking for just a set of adjustable stock rockers right now. If I can find a decent machine shop I may put larger valves in but not sure about the 1.50 exhaust the possibility of them cutting through into the front water jacket is causing me concern.

See Ya,
Mike
 
mike i think a cam similar to what you have now will do very nicely for you. and i agree that a bigger rocker arm ratio would do well for you as well.
 
is there a better choice in brands of cams these days? I have a Clifford because that was all there was when I built the 170. Not sure they are the best to buy from any longer?

See Ya,
Mike
 
the comp 260h is still a good grind, clay smith has a 264 degree cam, contact does10s and see if he has any still laying around.
 
rbohm":2je3ol2q said:
the comp 260h is still a good grind, clay smith has a 264 degree cam, contact does10s and see if he has any still laying around.

Will do, I was on Clay Smith's website earlier and saw them listed there, is there an advantage of getting from the old stock CI? I mean I would just to help move them out if that was the case :)

See Ya,
Mike
 
lavron":3iple4vv said:
rbohm":3iple4vv said:
the comp 260h is still a good grind, clay smith has a 264 degree cam, contact does10s and see if he has any still laying around.

Will do, I was on Clay Smith's website earlier and saw them listed there, is there an advantage of getting from the old stock CI? I mean I would just to help move them out if that was the case :)

See Ya,
Mike

not sure if there is an advantage, but will might make you a deal since you have been a long time member here, i dont know.

one thing, choose the lobe separation angle carefully. i tend to prefer a 110 lobe separation angle for good all around performance, but if you plan on boosting the engine, then going a little wider to say 112, would be beneficial in the low end.
 
Ok so it has been almost two years and things have changed some and things have gotten a little more firmed up.

I still have not bought a cam :roll: but this is where I stand right now with the stuff I have collected for my '64 Comet Sedan.

I got;
'98 Explorer 8.8 LS 3.73 and narrowed it
'98 Mustang V6 T-5 (3.35 - 1.93 - 1.29 - 1.00 - 0.73) that I switched input shaft to an earlier '86 V8 T-5
Rear 4-Link
M2 Front Suspension (Just because I wanted too)
Pacesetter dual out header
Most of the components to put air ride suspension (not low rider)
And my tires are; fronts- 195/65R15 so a 25" tire, 7.7" wide. The rears are 225/60R16 a 26.6 tire, 8.9" wide. (Still waiting to get my wheels but I have them picked out)

The other thing is a pair of Motorcraft 5740s that I think I already mentioned that I want to mod the log to fit something like this

b1e4fb60f762ca4488b3539a860e72ab.jpg


Last week I picked up a 250 short block out of a '77 Maverick that I am currently disassembling and checking,, it appears to be a pretty good engine. The 250 head was cracked across the carb flange so I will be using the 200 head.

I guess my question has changed now to cam choice and pistons and deck height, still wanting it to be a road car.

There are a couple of reasons why I decided on the 250, #1 is that I can use SBF clutch, starter and bell housing and as hard as the 6 parts are at finding anymore I want to be able to get parts easier (same reason for the 8.8 and MII front) especially if I break down on the road. #2 is well I guess 50 more cubes and I like an engine that is even harder to get parts for than a 200 :banghead:

So would I be best to just use stock pistons and deck the block a little, or deck the block a bit more and use big dish pistons? I know it has been almost two years and I still have not CC'ed my head, it is still sitting in the same place as I took that picture above.

I was looking at the Clay Smith H-264-0-B cam, which has the 110 spread, is there a better choice.

I also got the DS2 distributor with the engine but will need a controller, suggestions?

Last thing, this is a budget build, I am trying to do everything myself and as cheaply as i can, but still have the car I want, I have been collecting parts and have not even started on the car yet, trying to get my ducks in a row and some are missing.

Any suggestions will be much appreciated.

See Ya,
Mike
 
Mike What year 200 head do you have?? Chamber CC's??
What trans do you plan to use?? That would determine you cam choice.
I would contact Jerry at Schneider Cams. He will probably suggest 270H-280 cam @ 110 L/C.
When you give me more info. I can curve a DS11 for you. Mine are completely rebuilt & custom curved for your application. I will recurve yours if it is clean & in good condition. PM me or call 843-202-0280 & leave a message if not answered. Bill
 
wsa111":1d2k1fsb said:
Mike What year 200 head do you have?? Chamber CC's??

'72 200 head, haven't CC yet will try too, assuming stock, I could not tell that the 200 was ever rebuilt. It is a flat top so according to the Falcon Performance Handbook, it should be 62CC chamber, but I will confirm that in case it has been milled.

wsa111":1d2k1fsb said:
What trans do you plan to use??

It is a V6 T-5 out of a '98 Mustang, I swapped the input shaft to the shorter '86 V8 T-5, gearing 3.35 - 1.93 - 1.29 - 1.00 - 0.73

wsa111":1d2k1fsb said:
When you give me more info. I can curve a DS11 for you. Mine are completely rebuilt & custom curved for your application. I will recurve yours if it is clean & in good condition.

I haven't looked at the Distributor yet I just pulled it out and put in a box, I did not even take the cap off yet, when I get further along I will contact you.

Like I said really looking for a very steetable car with mild performance, I want it fun to drive.

I am trying to make old junk new, I know that I could buy new (well if my wife would let me) but a little elbow grease can make junk yard stuff nice and functional, this is my 8.8 diff when I drug it home;

929c7eb0ece12334ab9a8f45f450b4ae.jpg


Now it looks like this;

f3aa1fb66974a69adbd5287867eb9f0f.jpg


It is now narrowed, rebuilt calipers new bearings, brake rotors and spiffy Mustang aluminum rear cover (ok so the cover was an unnecessary expense :roll: ) de-rusted and clean inside and out.

See Ya,
Mike
 
I firmly believe there is no need to wade through choices... Just call Schneider, and tell them what you want to do, and what you have, and buy whatever jerry recommends...
 
RichCreations":azzrjlem said:
I firmly believe there is no need to wade through choices... Just call Schneider, and tell them what you want to do, and what you have, and buy whatever jerry recommends...

I guess I need to figure out my chamber CC numbers first and decide what to do with the pistons and deck height first, I will try and do that.

I have been searching and reading different posts on here and seems there is not a definitive answer on the 250 piston deck height dilemma. I did check and my rods are forged so I should be able to just clean them up, I am looking at most probably a .020 overbore (could do .010 most likely but will let the machine shop dictate that)

When I was younger, and unmarried, etc I built the head on the 170 in the car right now, I did hardened seats, valve guides, new valves and had the head milled (I can't remember how much, just a clean up I think) I was not totally impressed with the work, all my valve seats protrude into the chamber, IIRC, but the car has run fine. The port divider has always been an issue, I had the last one welded in and it broke loose almost as quickly as the one that was just JB Welded in, I would like to avoid that problem this time, I am thinking about having it pinned in this time. Anyway that all said it was expensive and would like to hold cost down this time, hopefully I won't need guides and I may run non-hardened seats (I have read mixed opinions on this) the only consideration I may do is have larger intake valves installed.

I guess I may be getting ahead of myself coming to ask questions before I do my homework, thanks for the understanding guys.

See Ya,
Mike
 
Mike, if you plan to weld in the port divider do it before any other machine work is done, if the welder preheats the head prior to welding it could warp the deck & possibly cause cracks. Get the head magnafluxed to make sure no cracks show, then do all your machine work.
Get advice from other forum members on the 250 build. Such as piston choice, deck milling.
Then call Jerry at Schneider for the cam choice. Tell him you are a member of the Forum. I just spoke with him yesterday & told him he will be getting more business from Forum members.
The 260 cam is an antiquated grind. Jerry will give you advice on valve springs. His 27H-280 requires 100#-110# seat pressure. You will need a single spring with damper or dual springs.Bill
 
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