Finding a large log cylinder head?

:beer: Congrats that is about the best head you can get. That boss / hole on the top of intake log is a vaccum tap if you don't need to use it you can use a pipe plug to block it off. The Holley or Autolite / Motorcraft 2V carb's work very well, and if your real good at tuning then the Weber carb's can be good too. Good luck (y) :nod:
 
Glad you found a head quickly.
The 2100 1.08 is worth considering for your 200 / large head. Combined with a DSII from WSA curved for your setup and it should be a good performer.
 
So, what would happen if you just left the small hole on the intake manifold open?

I will be getting the bottom of the cylinder head milled, and assuming that it has not been milled before, I am planning on having .075 taken off. Will someone verify my calculations? This is a 1980 head and I will be putting it on a 1965 engine.

new Felpro gasket .04
old gasket - .025 = .015

.015 + .05 = .065 to reduce the chamber size by 10cc

.065 + .01 = .075 to increase c/r from 9.2 to 9.4

My machinist is worried about taking that much off, but the tech article states that up to .9 is safe.

I am not removing the engine block from the car, so no zero decking.

I don't want to jack this up. Let me know what you think.
 
Leaving the hole open will cause a giant vaccum leak, most likely the engine would not even start or run. But if it did run it would run quite poorly. Good luck :nod:
 
Hi, nice head. See the procedure to CC the combustion chambers before milling the head. Compare the chamber size now, from when it was stock, and you will have an idea on how much to mill. As mentioned, plug the vacuum port. There is probably another vacuum port under the carb baseplate. Good luck
 
"... CC the combustion chambers before milling the head..."
2X !!!
define cam,CR for application of THIS vehicle (more specific than just 'a fun car').
If not getting up to speed as recommended here w/the "Handbook" read the entire Tech Archive.
There R some concepts I think ur missing.
Pardon me for my assumptions and 'straightforwardness', want the best for your build.

As RON sez above: "... See the procedure to CC the combustion chambers before milling the head. Compare the chamber size now, from when it was stock, and you will have an idea on how much to mil..."
 
Hi, now I see roller tip rockers on the new head. Find out the rocker ratio before picking a cam. You will need cupped pushrods for your build. There are some choices. See the selection at Vintage Inlines. Good luck
 
The E0BE cylinder head I got from the scrap salvage yard has been magnafluxed and a small crack fixed. Unfortunately, the cost to open the intake manifold up for a 2v carb will be too expensive. I know the Weber DGV with 2-1 adaptor has a 1.5 opening and the cylinder head I have is a 1.75 opening. Are there larger adaptors to help maximize air flow? Could the Weber adaptor opening be expanded? Should I be looking at a different carb? Thanks for the any advice.
 
"...will be too expensive..."
sorry to be so personal but how much is being charged?
Not sure ur geo location but we have a forum for "local machine shops" that may offer a better referral...

Some do this specific operation as a DYI w/o milling machinery. (Also:
C post #26 B4 any head wrk is completed/planned).
:nod:
(y)
 
Thanks for the link to the large head adaptor, somehow I missed that.

I'm getting the cylinder head CC'ed next, so I can determine how much to mill off the bottom.

I live in Kansas City. I have been able to locate 8 machine shops here, but only 1 does furnace brazing, which according to the tech article is what should be done before milling the intake. This 1 shop doesn't furnace braze on site, they would send the head out to central Kansas for that at an estimated cost of $400-500.

If I am missing something that would simplify this, please let me know.

My goal is to maximize performance for a street engine. I will not be racing this car.
 
"...1 does furnace brazing,..."
excellent, make sure to have them 'build up some surface area" (have U seen pics here of the unfortunate results when not doing so?) BEFORE they do the milling for DM (wish I could cite the thread w/pic of the '69 M head shown milled 4 DM here).

Also the CCing is 1st, other performance milling 2nd (some of which is based on the cc results), and the passes for the DM last. Determine CR first, before all of this, select cam in the middle or along w/machining planning, rocker ratio, etc. Again, we're kinda back to the 1st or 2nd post: "...what are you planning to do with this motor intended use..." as the optimal/primary Q that guides each decision. Pardon me but to me anything much past the stock (except for a modern cam upgrade, 3 < valve job, back cut, & leveling pass on head for truing up & modern gasket) is a performance or race mod. There is just so much variety in there that its good to define just what level...

Thanks for taking me along on your ride (to completion). Sounds like you've got it all pretty much there, again pardon any paternalism! Esp since I aint no ex-sprit.
 
FWIW, I did not have mine grazed and it worked out just fine. If you're set on brazing, talk to 1hotvega on here. He is in Cali but does great work from the pictures I've seen.
 
Royals,
On my E0 head,after I stripped the valves and all,I took a grinder to the 1 bbl knob.sharpied on thehole pattern and using a smaller grinder,opened it up,finished with a dremel.Then cut valve guides for comp cams viton530(520-16)valve seals.A little port/polish,what I could reach.
I then took the head,both adapters(weber,2100) and port divider to a welder buddy.he did it cheap,but I wired his shop,so...
Machine shop for the rest.060 mill,hardned valve seats,big SS valves,3 angle(no backcut,forgot/not racing).Cleanup on carb mount and exhaust. $350 also needed 1 valve guide.
back at my shed,I enlarged 1 hole in one of the adapters and marked and drilled 6 holes.Now I can use either a 32/36 or a 2100.
I just haven't made linkage or cable for the 2100.
Now that I'm on head #7,and after teaching me how to braze,my welder bud has come up with a high nickel rod made FOR cast iron.

Basically,I'm saying do as much as you can yourself.sounds like that guy wanting $400 needs $200 for beer money.
after the 4th head ,you can dance while you do it,just don't let people see you,they'll pepperspray you cause they don'y understand..........
 
oopps.I also put a vaumn guage in that hole in the front of the log.As soon as I get an amercan made stainless one in there it'll look all shiny and stuff!
 
good on ya chero! After 7 U can go into business doin this!
Got any pic?
Thanks for the post! (esp like 2 C the 2100/weber ability)
/AND/
hi nic content is the way 2 go on cast! (use it 4 da port divider too).
 
Thanks for they suggestion Chero, I had been wondering if that was a possibility. So, let me see if I have my steps in order.
1. Use a small surface grinder to take off the 1v nob intake.
2. Use a surface grinder, the same size as the carb adapter plate, to make a level surface to weld the plate to.
3. Trace the shape of the 2v opening onto the new flat surface and grind out the excess. What did you use to do that?
4. Use a Dremel tool to smooth the edges.
5. Drill and tap 3 or 4 holes for the mounting screws, and clean up all metal shavings.
6. Use high temp silicone around the new opening and attach the adaptor plate. Done?
 
for those 6 steps I'd add one B4 them all:
"See other examples as models before starting."

Also ck a 'miss step' w/the 'search' function above by looking for member "MPGs"s photos...

I really think the surface grinder or other tool and cutting machinery ( milling machine, Bridgeport, etc) is the way to go. One thing some DYIers don't do is have the 3 or 4 % cant in the surface as the carb doesn't sit 'level' on there (or more correctly - the engine isn't level in the vehicle)...
Also at "1a" or "2a" I'd add B4 subtracting esp on specific yr heads (there's hex, round and flat at the minimum)


Enjoy !
 
Our fellow member, Jerry aka 'stanyon', did just that. Cut it off with a skilsaw fiber disc on a heavy duty buffer, cleaned it up and flattened it with a file and made an aluminum adapter for a weber. I saw it in person, he did a great job of it. You don't have to spend alot of money.

cuttin10.jpg


dresse10.jpg


eng_rg11.jpg


http://vintage-vans.forumotion.com/t369 ... n-65-truck

In that thread, notice where he blew through into the water jacket on an exhaust port on the first junkyard head he worked on porting.
 
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