Another 144 update. Electric kinda solved

falcon_master

Well-known member
Hi everyone. I made another video with the engine running now. I fixed the Gen light but I have to polarize it every time I start it otherwise the light goes back on. For the ign setup I have a wire coming from the positive side of the solenoid to a ballast resistor then through the hole in the firewall where the choke cable runs through to a 20 amp toggle switch then from the switch to the coil. The system works great. I took a "test light" (a small replacement dash bulb) and found what works had voltage and when. I found that my ign wire does fact get voltage to the coil the headlights, dash lights, and horn all get voltage.whre it gets interesting is that even when I'm holding the key on start the words to the solenoid where start is marked is getting so little voltage the light barley goes on o couldn't tell at first. So some work I still needed lol but the solenoid is ok at least.

Here is the video
https://youtu.be/hpph8tZvjZw
 
"...smokes like a choo choo ..."
timing? But -
U said it runs fine to 3K rpm...
Still think a compression test may B in order, what say the others? Y'all here? There? Anywhere?
 
Have you replaced the voltage regulator or taken the generator to a shop?

Are you just going by the GEN light to determine if it's actually charging?
 
I'd run the engine for a few hundred miles before doing a compression test. Let it loosen up and get the rings to reseal. Put straight 30 weight in there, no detergents, the cheapest stuff you can find, a new filter and drive it like you stole it for a while. Then put some better oil in there and new filter run it for a bit, then do the test. Firstly, pull the valve cover and look at the valve seals and see if the are intact.
 
Hi, you need to learn how to full field test the generator. It will probably put out over 20 volts at 2000 rpm. All the voltage is "regulated" by the regulator.
My guess would be the points are sticking in the regulator. In a pinch, you could dress the points with an Emory board, but replacement is better.
You should only need to polarize the regulator once when it is new.
The generator and distributor have little oil fill cups in case you didn't know.
It probably can't hurt to spray the back plate on the generator with WD 40, which is safe to use on electric circuits.
If you have very low voltage at the key switch check all connections, clean and tighten them. There is excess resistance somewhere.
Good luck
 
Just a thought I think I would change out the generator/regulator for a single terminal alternator. This alternator just has one wire to connect to the battery and it's regulator is built in. The regulator for the gen is abt $50. So you replace that and find that the gen needs brushes and bearings add another $20 + your time to phutz w/it. In the end you still have a 25amp generator that on a dark rainy night w/ radio on can almost keep up w/ the demand of the electrical accessories.
A modern alternator can easily produce 60-100amps w/o breaking a sweat. It can be had for around $100. I'm not sure abt the mounting whether there is a kit w/ the proper hardware to make it a simple bolt on job.
The other point is that if you do upgrade the 144 to a 200cid it comes w/an alternator (if it hasn't been remove before purchase). Then you would just have to replace the regulator w/ the proper one to match alt.

As for the smokey breather I wouldn't loose sleep over it. I my state it isn't an inspection idem I'd get it on the road 1st. It's normal to have some smoke there from the hot oil vapors and such from the inside the engine. As mention it may clear up as it gets driven. Would be more attentive to the inspection stuff like brakes and front end so I can get it on the road.

Quick tip. If it's been parked outside a lot use duct tape over the water oh I mean air inlet right in front of the windshield. A lot of these old birds have rusted out cowls and will leak rain water under the dash and down to the floor thus rotting the floor pan out.

GL
Terry
 
Im having an issue with my generator charging in my 61 Stude Lark. So dont feel alone bud. I found that out by pulling the negative off and it died immediately. It might be charging slightly as ive run this car for over half an hour now at idle and a little bit of revving.

Could it be possible it just needs brushes? Or could i just need to polarize it? And how would i do that? Im gonna try that WD-40 thing too. The gen light is on but it might be hooked up incorrectly too

I dont meant to hijack this.

Thanks,
Ryan
 
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