Engine and throw out bearing questions

Hi everyone. It has been awhile since I have posted. Since then I’ve made some progress. The engine now starts and idles smooth, it does rev very nice and as for acceleration it’s ok. I’ve got it running a bit rich from what I can tell but it doesn’t hesitate at all or feel like it wants die under WOT or sudden flooring it so I’ll keep it how it is. I’ve also done some more work to the brakes, I’ve bled them a bit more and they work well enough to lock up all four but the pedal still has to travel 3/4 the way to build any pressure. My main problem now is drivetrain. The noise is loud as ever and the clutch pedal is getting kinda stiff. I think that throw out bearing is on its way out the door very soon. So my question to you all is where can I find one, I have searched and searched and I cannot find a TO bearing for a 144 with a 8.5” clutch without buying a $200 clutch kit. And I don’t wanna spend $200 because I hope to in the near future to replace it with like a 200. And does anyone know a good place to find a 200. I’ve called the local yards and none of them have any. It’s just hard to buy online because it’s like $300 in shipping alone

The throwout bearing should be available from your local auto parts retailer (OReilly shows a Federal Mogul part assembly for about $75) or Rock Auto lists several bearings only for about $20 - they call it a Clutch Release Bearing though.

Here's a link to the rockauto.com parts: https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/for ... aring,1968

I can't help much with the 200 engine. Sorry.

Haven't seen you post in a little while was wondering how things where coming along.
> does anyone know a good place to find a 200.
You might give CL a try. It does require some patience would look under 6cyl ford engine or inline 6cyl engine. Detective skills may be in order to figure out what the seller has as most of the time the exact displacement isn't known. FB Falcon Owners group usually has a few but there usually on the other side of the country.
I was very lucky I found a '68 200 out the a mustang on CL. It was a couple of hundred miles away and for now I'm not driving. He want to sell the whole drivetrain motor, 303 trans, diff, rad, and ds for $300. Told him that I really have a use for the engine and the rad (found out later the rad is just a little too large). Then there was the getting it up here as it was in MD and I'm near Philly. Seller sez not a problem, gets up to Philly on a regular basis for work and delivery wasn't a problem. About a week later he delivered it and set on a little HF dolly, all for $200. Sez it's a good running motor w/78K on it. Pulled the plugs all look good nice tan patina no oil black ones. The oil pan and timing cover have been off am thinking it's had the rear main seal replace.
If you are pulling the trans you'll want to have the clutch alignment tool handy. Should pull pressure plate and disc out to have a look at them while you have it apart.
GL on your quest!
Terry

Hi, there is too much pedal travel. Your brakes should start to grab right away. If you pump the pedal and it gets better the brake shoes need to be adjusted. If the shoes are adjusted properly maybe the pedal rod to the master cylinder is too short. Good luck

Brake pedal should have some free play about an inch or so. If it's adjusted with very little fp when the brake fluid get hot and expands it can cause all four wheels (brakes) to lockup. No fun.

Terry

They got some 200s for sale in the Seattle area. If you're willing to drive that distance. I do have my old 65 200 out of the Ranchero but id like to keep it for originality reasons. But i do have a spare 200, dissasembled but rebuildable. I can send pics if you're interested. It has a 170 head head for higher compression but am unsure if the valves were properly resized or anything else. A head is easy to come by though

idk if your still in CO or not but there is a guy locally here in Lincoln, NE that wants $100 for a complete 250 that is in running condition. But that is even a bit of a drive from CO

folks (not in a rush) should use UShip more.
Guys w/a truck (& often trailer) can B contracted for
LTL (less than a truck load) shipment of motors'n other
drive line prts for a very reasonable ship price. I rejected
bids till one said (emails 2 a BBS/listserv) "Jeesh, how much R
U willing to pay?" and met my $ available. Only took bout a mo.
Off shoot of flee-bay I believe - several 250s'n a 170, 3.03 all here
(& now 4 sale). Give it a try, you'll like it. (I have no stock or other
connection to the corporation UShip, it subsidiaries, employees or any
other interests in UShip).
8^ )

$100 for a complete running 250 is a good buy if I was close I would get it there must be someone in that area that could use it.

450lb 2X (from 1000 & 1500 mi)
TN vs VA both to MA
$150 each time dor tador...
(nuttin over 10 yr ol in local junk yrds)

BTW Jerod (back ta yer thread, sorry 4 da jack) I got one like the Timkin John Ha linked U 2 (@ rockauto)