Need a Carb

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Georgia200
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Need a Carb

Post #1 by Georgia200 » Sat Oct 27, 2018 5:54 pm

67 200/C4

My 1100 SCV doesnt match my non LOM dizzy.

I was working on figuring out the high idle problem Im having and tripped and broke the hot air choke off.

I think I will just buy a new carb since I was going to anyway.

I have a C6 block that needs to be freshened up and a C9 head with 1.75 carb opening. My current 1100 is a 1.5.

I plan on keeping this head and installing 144 intake valves for the exhaust, keep my 1.649 intake valves and mill and deck for a 8.8-9.0 compression ratio. Mild cam with a smooth idle, DSII, adjustable rockers. I will add ac in the near future.

What 1V carb would be best? I prefer to keep my stock linkage, I want to keep an oem look under the hood as much as possible.

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Re: Need a Carb

Post #2 by wsa111 » Sat Oct 27, 2018 8:35 pm

69 250 carb. See your PM
67 mustang,C-4, with mod. 80 hd, custom 500 cfm carb with annular boosters, hooker headers, dual exh.-X pipe, flowmaster mufflers, HEI dist. Engine 205" .030" over with offset ground crank & 1.65 roller rockers. 9.5 comp., Isky 262 cam.
2003 Ford Lightning daily driver. Recurving Distributors. billythedistributorman@live.com
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frozenrabbit
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Re: Need a Carb

Post #3 by frozenrabbit » Sun Oct 28, 2018 12:01 pm

Hey Georgia,

Would you be interested in parting with the top of that 1100 you broke the choke off of?

I'm running an 1100, and my top is a little more over-torque warped to the bowl than I would like, I've got double gaskets in there right now. Running a manual choke, I'm only looking for a better top.

Steve
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Re: Need a Carb

Post #4 by CZLN6 » Sun Oct 28, 2018 12:23 pm

Howdy Georgia:

The carb you need is an Autolite 1101 used in 1969 on Mustangs with a 250 engine. IT will be an all around direct bolt-on in your case. It is rated at 210 cfm for a noticeable boost in power. It utilizes the same hot air choke system that your original '67 1100 carb used. It will be compatible with your '68 distributor as well as your planned DS II ignition. IT has a 1.75" throttle bore. FYI- these 1101 carbs are getting fairly scarce. Good hunting.

When doing your head be sure to specify a 30 degree back cut on the intake valves.

Good luck and keep it coming.

Adios, David
co-author of the Falcon Performance Handbook
http://www.falcon6handbook.com/

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Re: Need a Carb

Post #5 by Georgia200 » Sun Oct 28, 2018 1:15 pm

Ive got a copy of the handbook and have been collecting parts for the head as Ive run across them over the years.

Not sure my 1100 is in good shape, it looks like it was pieced together from more than 1 carb. Im not even sure its an Autolite, no numbers on it anywhere. The top looks newer than the bottom.

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chad
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ID my specific carb

Post #6 by chad » Sun Oct 28, 2018 1:40 pm

from Mike's Carbs:
"When no tag is present, Identification can be done by inspecting the base. You can sometimes find a Ford part number there."

I have looked at all ID: #s, Ltrs on a very few carbs. The 2 or 3 carters -YF, RBS (haven't looked at the A.1100, 01's IDs) I've rebuilt have a stamped (not cast) series of ltrs and #s on the side of the mounting base/flange that helps in ordering internal/external prts.
Can't remember the webber (32/36).
"Big thing is only make one change at a time. Change 2 or more things at a time it becomes difficult to figure which change helped or hurt" turbo2256b » 1/16/2017
Chad - '70 LUEB on '77 frame (i.e. PS, D44, trapezoidal BB 9", 4.11), 250, NV 3550 & DSII to B transplanted, "T" D20/PTO, 2" SL, 1" BL, 4 discs, 33"X15", etc. Seeking: Hydraulic gear motor for Koenig pto. chrlsful@aol.com (413) 259-1749

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Re: Need a Carb

Post #7 by frozenrabbit » Sun Oct 28, 2018 2:32 pm

Not completely sure if the tube from the bowl to the throat was exposed or encased early years or later. I have one exposed tube, and one encased.

I am interested in that top, if you'd like to get rid of it once you figure out what carb you're going to.

I've got my assembled 1100 and a parts carb, no casting or stamped numbers anywhere on body or top. Never had the tags for them.

This pic from eBay shows a stamped number at the base.
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Georgia200
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Re: Need a Carb

Post #8 by Georgia200 » Sun Oct 28, 2018 5:21 pm

709 is stamped on the body, otherwise nothing anywhere. I have a 2100 and it is stamped on the base.

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chad
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need a carb? - use the formula 2 determine motor's CFM

Post #9 by chad » Sun Oct 28, 2018 8:04 pm

C30FA - that's the ticket !
Use that for ID, prts, determining what vehicle it wuz on originally, etc...
:mrgreen:
"Big thing is only make one change at a time. Change 2 or more things at a time it becomes difficult to figure which change helped or hurt" turbo2256b » 1/16/2017
Chad - '70 LUEB on '77 frame (i.e. PS, D44, trapezoidal BB 9", 4.11), 250, NV 3550 & DSII to B transplanted, "T" D20/PTO, 2" SL, 1" BL, 4 discs, 33"X15", etc. Seeking: Hydraulic gear motor for Koenig pto. chrlsful@aol.com (413) 259-1749

Georgia200
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Re: Need a Carb

Post #10 by Georgia200 » Thu Nov 01, 2018 9:22 pm

I bought a reman United Carb from Advance for a 1969 Mustang 250. The carb that was shipped to me has a SCV. I went on their website and that carb is listed for 1965-1969. We know thats not true.

So Im still looking. The $99 ebay China carbs are looking better and better,

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StarDiero75
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Re: Need a Carb

Post #11 by StarDiero75 » Thu Nov 01, 2018 9:35 pm

Thats screwy. I didnt think the 250 ever ran the LOM and SCV. If yoy want to try another type of carb, the Carter RBS or Carter YF i believe are pretty good carbs for the 250.

If you're capable, I'd get a cheap YF on ebay and rebuild it yourself. Its not difficult and usually yoy can get a better quality carb rather a crap chinese one.

Good luck,
Ryan
--1965 Ranchero w/1966 200 and 3.03 column shift, 8" rear 2.8 (Yes I know the gearing sucks), weber 32/36, CRT Performance HEI.
--1961 Studebaker Lark VI, OHV 170 l6 in the process of being resurrected. But it lives
--Creator of the only Weber 32/36 conversion video.

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Re: Need a Carb

Post #12 by Econoline » Thu Nov 01, 2018 9:40 pm

frozenrabbit wrote:Hey Georgia,

Would you be interested in parting with the top of that 1100 you broke the choke off of?

I'm running an 1100, and my top is a little more over-torque warped to the bowl than I would like, I've got double gaskets in there right now. Running a manual choke, I'm only looking for a better top.

Steve


That's a good point, the tops of 1100 carbs are weak, don't over tighten them. If you are rebuilding one, put some 120-180 grit sand paper on your table saw or whatever and carefully grind it flat, both top and bottom. Never hurts to check any flange.
It ain't gonna fix itself

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StarDiero75
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Re: Need a Carb

Post #13 by StarDiero75 » Thu Nov 01, 2018 9:41 pm

If you want a good boost in power, I'd recommend upgrading to a weber 32/36 or Holley 5200. I got a video and the correct jet sizes yoy need to make the swap. Its not difficult and will work with your dizzy.

What you'd need:
Weber or holley
Adapter from clifford or VI
Air cleaner. A V8 air cleaner will fit or you can go to a chrome one but you'd need another adapter from the holley/weber to the round style air cleaner.
Correct Jets
And a little pedal linkage messing. A cable upgrade is the best way to go.

https://youtu.be/yvOCZ3rql7Y

It can be done for about $250 but you'll get better gas mileage and more power. I recommend it highly

Good luck,
Ryan
--1965 Ranchero w/1966 200 and 3.03 column shift, 8" rear 2.8 (Yes I know the gearing sucks), weber 32/36, CRT Performance HEI.
--1961 Studebaker Lark VI, OHV 170 l6 in the process of being resurrected. But it lives
--Creator of the only Weber 32/36 conversion video.

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chad
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1 or 2v carb?

Post #14 by chad » Thu Nov 01, 2018 11:34 pm

Georgia200 wrote:67 200/C4What 1V carb would be best? I prefer to keep my stock linkage, I want to keep an oem look under the hood as much as possible.
Don't 4 get, it's the pre '68 LOM/SCV changes ( C above "tech archive ' @ crossed screwdriver/wrench).
I like the ubiquitous 1100 and YF.

For a lill more - the RBS (still 1v but 215 cfm 1970/4) or follow Ryan wid da 32/36 (2v). Now we're gettin inta lill more so the 2100 or some holley 2v give the performance w/o the complications of a weber, still tunable. All look oem or period correct 2 me (I'm closer to 70 than 60 y/o so saw these as a 'kid'). All post '68 LOM/SCV. OK w/'68 + dizzy'n DSII.

Best bet? Tell us what/how U drive (ie 80% of drivin condition/RPMs).

Have fun, keep talkin...
"Big thing is only make one change at a time. Change 2 or more things at a time it becomes difficult to figure which change helped or hurt" turbo2256b » 1/16/2017
Chad - '70 LUEB on '77 frame (i.e. PS, D44, trapezoidal BB 9", 4.11), 250, NV 3550 & DSII to B transplanted, "T" D20/PTO, 2" SL, 1" BL, 4 discs, 33"X15", etc. Seeking: Hydraulic gear motor for Koenig pto. chrlsful@aol.com (413) 259-1749

Georgia200
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Re: Need a Carb

Post #15 by Georgia200 » Fri Nov 02, 2018 8:47 am

Without having one in my hand, how difficult is a 1940 or RBS swap? Those seem much easier to come by.

If I convert to a cable throttle, how does the kickdown work?

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will do head wrk, Need a Carb

Post #16 by chad » Fri Nov 02, 2018 10:29 am

Sounds like U have The Handbook? Look at the direct mount option for carb in there. Ur "M" head is one of the better 4 that'n it seems U will have it off/at machinist anyway.

Have U perused the above 'tech archive' as well?
Lots of answers in both & due to the auto being a system - other concerns that should B kept in mind.

RBS - good; Holley 1940 - isn't that what David calls "a replacement" carb? Not so much flow...

"If I convert to a cable throttle, how does the kickdown work?"
I keep gettin corrected when I call it a TV cable but the same as it duz now (w/ur C4). It would just need adjustment tho.
"Big thing is only make one change at a time. Change 2 or more things at a time it becomes difficult to figure which change helped or hurt" turbo2256b » 1/16/2017
Chad - '70 LUEB on '77 frame (i.e. PS, D44, trapezoidal BB 9", 4.11), 250, NV 3550 & DSII to B transplanted, "T" D20/PTO, 2" SL, 1" BL, 4 discs, 33"X15", etc. Seeking: Hydraulic gear motor for Koenig pto. chrlsful@aol.com (413) 259-1749

Georgia200
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Re: Need a Carb

Post #17 by Georgia200 » Fri Nov 02, 2018 11:28 am

On a earlier linkage setup the C4 kickdown is off the same shaft as the throttle linkage.

When converting to cable, the shaft is removed so there is nothing for the kick down linkage to attach to.

Im guessing the kick down linkage also converts to a cable system, but I dont know for sure.

Is there a parts fiche website that has diagrams?

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chad
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Re: Need a Carb

Post #18 by chad » Fri Nov 02, 2018 11:41 am

ck out the '68 cougar in this link.
Just a metal tab for the housing (like the ol manuel chokes).

https://www.google.com/search?q=C4+thro ... jUTZR77rQM:
"Big thing is only make one change at a time. Change 2 or more things at a time it becomes difficult to figure which change helped or hurt" turbo2256b » 1/16/2017
Chad - '70 LUEB on '77 frame (i.e. PS, D44, trapezoidal BB 9", 4.11), 250, NV 3550 & DSII to B transplanted, "T" D20/PTO, 2" SL, 1" BL, 4 discs, 33"X15", etc. Seeking: Hydraulic gear motor for Koenig pto. chrlsful@aol.com (413) 259-1749

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Re: Need a Carb

Post #19 by CZLN6 » Fri Nov 02, 2018 1:43 pm

Howdy Back Georgia and All:

Q- "how difficult is a 1940 or RBS swap?"
A- The Holley 1940 is a Service Replacement carb that was sold through FoMoCo to replace the no longer in business Autolite 1100s. The 1940 was a generic carb made to adapt to any and all versions of the 1100s. So, If you get the exact 1940 for your year, engine and transmission it will be a bolt-on. However, just specifying a 1940 rebuilt will not guarantee that you get the right version of that carb. Plus, 1940 carbs are notorious for running rough, hard to tune, being down on power and leaky. Also, a 1940 for a '67 200 will have a SCV. The 1940s for this year are rated at 185 cfm. 1940s designed for 70 and later 200s do not have SCV.

The Carter RBS, as recommended, will require some adaptation. It is a very simple carb. FYI the RBS carbs were the stock 250 carbs for 1970 and later. So if you can find one that was originally for a car with a 250 and auto trans, the kick down linkage adaptation will be taken care of. Earliest RBS carbs were mechanical linkage. Later ones were cable linkage. Some adaptation would be needed for the fuel line, vacuum line and air cleaner. The RBS is the same as the 1101 as far as cfm, at 215. Some later RBS carbs used electric chokes.

The other Carter mention is a YF model. It became the stock 250 carb beginning in the mid 70s. It can be adapted similar to the RBS. The YF is a taller carb than the RBS so check for hood clearance. Of note is the fact that YFs were used on cars with the big block 240 engines as well as 300 engines in a pick-up. The 250 car engines and the 300 truck engines are rated at 220 cfm.

All of the above listed Carter carbs do not have SCVs.

I hope that helps. Good luck with your hunting.

Adios, David
co-author of the Falcon Performance Handbook
http://www.falcon6handbook.com/

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Re: Need a Carb

Post #20 by Georgia200 » Fri Nov 02, 2018 2:27 pm

Regarding YFs on 240/300s, I have always heard they do not idle well on a 200.

I called United Carbs and spoke with Greg. United is one of the rebuilders that the auto parts box stores get their carbs from.

Greg says that no one wants to list all the part numbers for the various carbs and they just lump everything together. He is an inline six fan and knew exactly what I was talking about concerning the SCV and non-SCV carbs. He is locating the correct carb and will call me when he gets it.

Also of note, he says that they buy the 1V China carbs, disassemble them and rebuild them with US parts,not enough rebuildable cores left anymore.

So Im still waiting.

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Re: Need a Carb

Post #21 by Georgia200 » Fri Nov 02, 2018 4:57 pm

Greg called back as promised and told me to order p/n 7-7276 from Advance.

What I should get in the mail is a Autolite 1101 with 1.75 bore and a hot air choke. About $190 to my door after I send in a core.

The parts stores will not show this carb if you look by application, plug in the number and it works.

I shopped around and they are all about the same price.

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bubba22349
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Re: Need a Carb

Post #22 by bubba22349 » Fri Nov 02, 2018 7:38 pm

Georgia200 wrote:67 200/C4

My 1100 SCV doesnt match my non LOM dizzy.

I was working on figuring out the high idle problem Im having and tripped and broke the hot air choke off.

I think I will just buy a new carb since I was going to anyway.

I have a C6 block that needs to be freshened up and a C9 head with 1.75 carb opening. My current 1100 is a 1.5.

I plan on keeping this head and installing 144 intake valves for the exhaust, keep my 1.649 intake valves and mill and deck for a 8.8-9.0 compression ratio. Mild cam with a smooth idle, DSII, adjustable rockers. I will add ac in the near future.

What 1V carb would be best? I prefer to keep my stock linkage, I want to keep an oem look under the hood as much as possible.


Sounds like a good plan when you do the head you might also consider opening up the 1 3/4 carb base hole to 2 inch and rolling the inside radius in the direction of the logs lenght for a bit better performance. X2 on also back cutting the valves. Good luck :thumbup: :nod:
A bad day Drag Racing is still better than a good day at work!

I am still hunting for a project car to build but with my current low budget it's not looking so good. My Ex- Fleet of Sixes these are all long gone! :bang: 1954 Customline 223 3 speed with O/D, 1963 Fairlane project drag car with BB6, 1977 Maverick 250 with C4, 1994 F-150 a 300 with 5 speed.

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Re: Need a Carb

Post #23 by Georgia200 » Fri Nov 02, 2018 10:31 pm

Bubba, I see you are from Flagstaff. Wife almost took a job there at NAU, but the 9ft of snow scared her. We like to live between I-10 and I-20. Ive lived in Tucson 3x, love it there.

My goal is to get on the road, then worry about upgrades.

I change projects like I change my socks, but a 67 is the one I have always wanted, so its a keeper.

Ive got my eye on a couple engines to rebuild. One is a 200 out of a 80 Mustang. The other is one I have only seen a pic of, all I can say is it has a low mount starter.

My engine is not original, my build date is 31 July 67, the engine is 30 Mar 66.

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Re: Need a Carb

Post #24 by bubba22349 » Sun Nov 04, 2018 6:46 pm

The 67 & 68 Mustangs are nice cars a real big faveriote of mine as over the years I have had the pleasure of owning 6 or 7 Coupe's, two Fastback's plus also a 67 Cougar, this was back in the 1970's to 1990's when they weren't so expensive. I am with you they are keepers if only I had hung onto one of mine, as currently their prices are out of reach in this area. With their larger engine compartment besides the 200's you could easyly fit a 250, or even one of the 300 Big Ford Six's if you wanted. On cars this old it's tough to still find one that's has its orginal engine though if you wanted it to go back to original then looking for the right casting numbers and date codes on the block head and exhaust manifold is still possible. These would be date coded around two weeks to month before your cars assembly date.

I have only been in Flagstaff 5 years now but haven't seen anything like 9' of snow. Most of the time we get 1 to 6 inchs at a time and offen it melts right away in a few days a bigger storm might give us 12 to 18 inches. The most we had from one storm was 39 inches that took a few hours to clean off the driveway the worse part was out at the street were the snow plows piled it up another couple feet. I have always been impressed how well the city takes care of clearing the streets. Good luck on your Mustang build. :thumbup: :nod:
A bad day Drag Racing is still better than a good day at work!

I am still hunting for a project car to build but with my current low budget it's not looking so good. My Ex- Fleet of Sixes these are all long gone! :bang: 1954 Customline 223 3 speed with O/D, 1963 Fairlane project drag car with BB6, 1977 Maverick 250 with C4, 1994 F-150 a 300 with 5 speed.

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Re: Need a Carb

Post #25 by Georgia200 » Wed Nov 07, 2018 10:45 pm

1101 showed up today. It looks good although I didnt have time to do much more than unwrap it and have a quick looksee.

Questions:

This is a 69 head with a 69 1101. Am I missing a spacer or riser?

I stopped by Summit and bought some gasket material, valve cover gaskets and a Jeep 2.5L carb spacer. The bolt holes are 2 15/16 so I need to slightly elongate them, but it fits nicely. Do I need it? I dont need the vacuum ports, but they may come in handy one day.

What is the throttle arm called that snaps onto the carb. If I use the spacer I will need a longer or an adjustable one.

The chrome valve cover has to go, it interferes with the carb. I have the original.
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Carb Options inc 'direct mount'

Post #26 by chad » Wed Nov 07, 2018 11:32 pm

we need a lill spacer to avoid the exh heat right there'n align/mount (the flange bolts, the throttle/gas peddle linkage). Some need a lill flair w/a 1/2 round file to match carb boar/intake opening. Some have a water choke there (not ur yr, earlier) & it's a nice place to have manifold vacuum (I see them in ur pics).

Many of us use Matt at vintage inlines dot com as he's a member here, caters to these engines & has taken up where the founder of this site & the well known Classic Inlines, AZ co. left off (Mike W died a yr or so ago). He's got different adaptor options 4 these. Also there's a pic on his site of a proper mill/build up for the 'direct mount' (U can skip the whole thing & increase performance) ur 'M' head is so good 4. Also seen on the tech archive above & in the book David (author w/his bro) has a link to in his above post 4 dis thread.
"Big thing is only make one change at a time. Change 2 or more things at a time it becomes difficult to figure which change helped or hurt" turbo2256b » 1/16/2017
Chad - '70 LUEB on '77 frame (i.e. PS, D44, trapezoidal BB 9", 4.11), 250, NV 3550 & DSII to B transplanted, "T" D20/PTO, 2" SL, 1" BL, 4 discs, 33"X15", etc. Seeking: Hydraulic gear motor for Koenig pto. chrlsful@aol.com (413) 259-1749

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Re: Need a Carb

Post #27 by bubba22349 » Thu Nov 08, 2018 12:33 pm

:hmmm: do you have that spacer shown in the above second picture? It's the one you need to use to work with your stock throdle linkage. Good luck :thumbup: :nod:
A bad day Drag Racing is still better than a good day at work!

I am still hunting for a project car to build but with my current low budget it's not looking so good. My Ex- Fleet of Sixes these are all long gone! :bang: 1954 Customline 223 3 speed with O/D, 1963 Fairlane project drag car with BB6, 1977 Maverick 250 with C4, 1994 F-150 a 300 with 5 speed.

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Re: Need a Carb

Post #28 by Georgia200 » Thu Nov 08, 2018 7:49 pm

Bubba, that is my engine in the second pic.

Is that the only spacer I should have?

There is room for the 3/4in spacer in the first pic and still use my air cleaner. Seems like I should get the carb as far from the exhaust manifold as possible.

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bubba22349
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Re: Need a Carb

Post #29 by bubba22349 » Fri Nov 09, 2018 7:03 am

Georgia200 wrote:Bubba, that is my engine in the second pic.

Is that the only spacer I should have?

There is room for the 3/4in spacer in the first pic and still use my air cleaner. Seems like I should get the carb as far from the exhaust manifold as possible.


Great yes that's the spacer you should have. If you have room for the extra spacer it won't hurt to use it. What I used to use is the thickest carb base gasket I could find these were used on the mid to late 1970's engines. Some of the other site members have made plastic type spacers to insulate the carb too. Good luck :thumbup: :nod:
A bad day Drag Racing is still better than a good day at work!

I am still hunting for a project car to build but with my current low budget it's not looking so good. My Ex- Fleet of Sixes these are all long gone! :bang: 1954 Customline 223 3 speed with O/D, 1963 Fairlane project drag car with BB6, 1977 Maverick 250 with C4, 1994 F-150 a 300 with 5 speed.

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chad
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avoiding carb-as-heat-sink

Post #30 by chad » Fri Nov 09, 2018 12:48 pm

some even wood, corrian, cutting boards, 2 milled up their own phenolic.
U may use the search function & come up w/their threads which have pic.
"Big thing is only make one change at a time. Change 2 or more things at a time it becomes difficult to figure which change helped or hurt" turbo2256b » 1/16/2017
Chad - '70 LUEB on '77 frame (i.e. PS, D44, trapezoidal BB 9", 4.11), 250, NV 3550 & DSII to B transplanted, "T" D20/PTO, 2" SL, 1" BL, 4 discs, 33"X15", etc. Seeking: Hydraulic gear motor for Koenig pto. chrlsful@aol.com (413) 259-1749

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Re: Need a Carb

Post #31 by Georgia200 » Fri Nov 09, 2018 5:35 pm

I swapped valve covers this morning.

The PO ws kind enough to give me the oem valve cover. It had a bunch of paint, is rusted, pitted and looks like ass.

I striped, sanded, used naval jelly, muriatic acid, wire brushed ect... and got about 95% of the rust off. Finally hit it with primer to hold off the rust and bolted it on.

Carb now clears the valve cover and I was able to get it running. I need to figure out the fast idle. I hooked up a vacuum gauge and had a steady 20in of vacuum, so thats all good.

Some pics of my valve train. Surprisingly, it has adjustable rockers.Between these and the spare set I have I should be able to put a decent set together.

Note the super rare hose clamp option.
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Last edited by Georgia200 on Fri Nov 09, 2018 5:51 pm, edited 1 time in total.

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StarDiero75
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Re: Need a Carb

Post #32 by StarDiero75 » Fri Nov 09, 2018 5:43 pm

Is that a crack in the rocker assembly in the 2nd pic?
You lucky dog, i wish i had that rare option :rolflmao:
I brought mine back to life in 2 days in similar shape but it didnt have anything funny like that.

If you need another rocker assembly i have one that needs some love I'd sell.

Good luck,
Ryan
--1965 Ranchero w/1966 200 and 3.03 column shift, 8" rear 2.8 (Yes I know the gearing sucks), weber 32/36, CRT Performance HEI.
--1961 Studebaker Lark VI, OHV 170 l6 in the process of being resurrected. But it lives
--Creator of the only Weber 32/36 conversion video.

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chad
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save every VC possible - some have mounting tabs

Post #33 by chad » Sat Nov 10, 2018 12:36 am

"... need another rocker assembly..."
pedestal is enuff.
Gotta have some somewhere in the membership...
"Big thing is only make one change at a time. Change 2 or more things at a time it becomes difficult to figure which change helped or hurt" turbo2256b » 1/16/2017
Chad - '70 LUEB on '77 frame (i.e. PS, D44, trapezoidal BB 9", 4.11), 250, NV 3550 & DSII to B transplanted, "T" D20/PTO, 2" SL, 1" BL, 4 discs, 33"X15", etc. Seeking: Hydraulic gear motor for Koenig pto. chrlsful@aol.com (413) 259-1749

Georgia200
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Re: Need a Carb

Post #34 by Georgia200 » Sat Nov 10, 2018 8:20 am

I have a spare assembly.

Today I will pull the shaft off the car, replace the damaged parts, reinstall, warm the engine up and attempt to adjust the valves.

On another note with the carb:

The carb I ordered was for a 1969 250 with AT.

The carb I received is for a MT. It should have had an accelerator pump and dashpot. It doesnt have the dashpot.

Do I need the dashpot? Should I return the carb again and ask for the correct one? This carb business is a PITA.

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chad
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Location: Lawrence Swamp, S. Amherst, MA

ordered Carb, no dash pot included

Post #35 by chad » Sat Nov 10, 2018 9:38 am

"...Should I return the carb again and ask for the correct one?..."
It will help when U 'take yer foot offa it'. (to maintain RPMs)

Back in the day the mechanics called em the "Pull Off" & that's what they did w/em (removed).
"Big thing is only make one change at a time. Change 2 or more things at a time it becomes difficult to figure which change helped or hurt" turbo2256b » 1/16/2017
Chad - '70 LUEB on '77 frame (i.e. PS, D44, trapezoidal BB 9", 4.11), 250, NV 3550 & DSII to B transplanted, "T" D20/PTO, 2" SL, 1" BL, 4 discs, 33"X15", etc. Seeking: Hydraulic gear motor for Koenig pto. chrlsful@aol.com (413) 259-1749

CZLN6
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Re: Need a Carb

Post #36 by CZLN6 » Sat Nov 10, 2018 11:19 am

HowdyBackGeorgia:

The dash pot helps to keep the engine running on a traffic stop. The dash pot slows engine deceleration. Since the car is for your wife to drive you may not want the engine dying in traffic stops for her. So Yes, try for the AT carb.

You could get by by having the curb ilde set a little higher than normal.

Good luck.

Adios, David
co-author of the Falcon Performance Handbook
http://www.falcon6handbook.com/

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