Time for a new engine...<grummble>...

red_stang65

Well-known member
After a decent amount of time from this engine (rebuilt by the original owner,though not the original engine), I'v just about given up with the numerous problems that keep popping up unannounced. ZFor instance, everything was fine last week and last night on the freeway she started pinging like mad, knocking hard, and something else was "humming"...I just don't know anymore.
So I've been online for a little today looking for some rebuilt/crate motors and seem to have found, IMO, a few decent places. However, this is the first time I'lve bought an engine, so could you guys help me out in letting me know what kind of questions to ask, etc? Appreciate it!

~Bobby
 
I got a rebuild from a local company in Los Angeles. The price was good on line, then there were a couple upgrades, like hardened seats. which put it over $1000.00 for a long block delivered to my house. More like 1200 with the old core. They "use my tin" which means all the covers and pans are owner supplied, but they gave me a complete seal kit. My daughter and I dropped it in last year. However, when I read through the Chilton's about rebuilds they said to tighten the head after about 100 miles of use. Of course I was 1200 miles into the thing by now and there were pinhole leaks out the side of the head/block interstice, weeping over my lovely, detailed Ford blue block. When the head gasket finally blew and was replaced, I saw it was a cheap little steel doily. My mech put in a Felpro and it runs better than before and no weeping coolant leaks. It's running great, 21 MPG highway and digs in great with DIY ram air and Clifford headers.
Here's my advice. Get the Ford Performance Handbook available at the FSP shop and figure out the casting numbers for what you want, especially the head. Get a shop close by, so if you have a warrenty problem you don't have to send the block to Seattle from Dade County FLA. Skip my engine supplier. They only have a 1 year warrenty. Get a 3 year that includes shipping or local remediation. You probably won't need it but if you do you're good to go. I had my head gasket replaced at 12 months and 3 WEEKS after the purchase date. Caramba!
I have an ATK 5 liter replacement engine in my F150 with a 3 year warranty that I haven't used yet by the end of the second year. They don't list refab 200s for 66 stangs, so you have to write about availablity. They do have the 200/250 for later model Fairmonts w/ and w/out smog. That's why you should do your homework on the casting numbers.
There is another Ford rebuilder in the Seattle area. I have a brother in law up there and would try that place next time. I could drive up, sleep at his house and haul the meat back to my house without paying shipping.
Maybe I'd get a block and head separately,mill the head to Ford Handbook spec and build up the block with a Performance Automotive Warehouse Ford six rebuild kit. They're only a couple hundred dollars for a stock set of brand name pistons and another hundred for performance grade, a savings you can put into a good late model head with the big valves and hardened seats already in place. Then you could deck and mill the head or block as you see fit and have the crank balanced, all for the same $$$$ as a long block. Meanwhile, you balance the pistons while the head is getting the spa treatment. Major fiddle factor, which is a big plus.
 
When I was in your situation, I found it far cheaper to rebuild the one I had. If I have to do it over again, which may happen someday, if I ever get to buy a Mustang (instead of my Fairmont), I'd do this:

1. Get a used engine that ran, but was tired.
2. Bore to clean bores (.040" is typical). Silvolite pistons are my choice.
3. Deck the block at least .030" for improved quench and efficiency.
4. Use the small-dish (7cc) pistons.
5. Port the head. Install a port divider for exhausts 3 & 4.
6. Adapt to the H/W 2-stage carb (235 CFM).
7. Use Clevite bearings in the engine and roller-type timing chain.
8. Use triple-lip crankshaft seals.
9. After engine assembly, mill the head for the compression ratio desired. This step must wait for the final deck height in the block upon assembly so the milling number can be figured. I like 9.2 compression ration because I also like cheap gas. ;)
10. Use headers on reassembly.

I did all of the above to my Fairmont (except #3, which I regret :( ) and #10, which I cannot, because of local emissions restrictions (and catalytic converter). I have not finished #6 yet, but will soon.

And, the whole works cost $600, including hardened valve seats in the head and milling the head .030". Almost half of that figure was the new valve rockers and shaft, because mine were very worn: the engine work itself was only $180. If you have the time, it's also the only was to make sure that everything is done RIGHT, which is very hard to get today. :devilish:
 
Triple lip crank seals? Where do you get some of those?
 
Where did you buy the master rebuild kit for the 200. I have found a few, but wonder what I should pay for it.

Jon
 
I didn't buy one. I have seen them at PAW (Performance Auto Warehouse). They always have a big ad with lots of stuff in Mustangs and Fords magazine: <www.pawengineparts.com>. Look under "super stock master kits".
 
Talk to Todd Fields(PowerBrakes), he may be able to give you some good info. He's up in Orange County(Anaheim) about 1-1.5 hour drive, depending on how fast you drive. He's a regular here too, so it would be a good hookup.
 
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