update on head repair issue, what now?

I heard from the machine shop today. They magnifluxed and vacuum checked the head from my 200 that was leaking water and oil. They found nothing wrong. They checked the surface and it was also not warped. The only thing they found was that the two small freeze plugs nearest the carb area were slightly leaking, more like osmossis and ooze than any drips of water. They also said that a few of the valve tips were pitted. They recommended just bolting it right back on.

Oh boy, now I am wondering if I have a cracked block, or could of the oil/water collecting in the intake manifold pockets have come just from headbolts without thread sealer. Hate to reinstall the head then have it leak again cause of a cracked block. Any ideas on how I can make sure the block is ok, while it is still in the car?

The shop is checking around their building for a 250 head. I will purchase the 250 head, mill it .030, install modern valve seats in it (if it is a pre-78 head), get it extrude honed, 4-angle valve job, install adjustable roller rockers (if I can find a manufacturer), install a cam and lifter set, new timing chain, then put it all together with new FelPro gaskets.

This is my first I6 build so any practical hints, planning tips, or advice is greatly welcomed.

Thanks everyone for your help.

are is the water collecting? is it next to the valve cover on the outside of the motor? it could be a bad heater hose leaking.

nick

65fastback - If the head has been shaved it might be the head bolts bottoming out. Find some hardened steel washers and use them when you re-install the head. This is a common occurence!

I don't think sealer is necessary on any of the head bolts. I didn't use any my 200 and it doesn't leak a drop. If you want to use for piece of mind...then it can't hurt anything either.

get it extrude honed

Click to expand...

$$$$ Ouch!

install adjustable roller rockers (if I can find a manufacturer)

Click to expand...

Rocker Arm Specialists, http://www.rockerarms.com/ $285 as part of a group buy. Gary is the guy you want to talk to.

hmmmm, that bit about the head being shaved and the headbolts bottoming out might be why my head leaked oil and water. I will definately get arp hardened steel washers with the arp headbolts for the 250 head. perhaps the 200 head is not as tall and I can just use the 200 headbolts? Don't know if they are the same or different lengths. If I use 200 headbolts, shorter in length, on a 250 head, then I don't need the hardened steel washers (I assume). I hope ARP can answer these questions.

I checked out the link your kindly supplied. Yes, I see that I can get adjustable rockers. Of course that is great, but I was also looking for roller tip, which is different than merely adjustable. I use Crane Gold roller tip rockers on my 302, with hardened pushrods. Something like that, threaded onto my rocker shaft, would be the idea. BTW, what rocker ratio are we using on these 200/250 heads? The 302 uses 1.6:1 until you get to the 5.0 version in the 80s, which has 1.73:1.

Thanks again for the education. Am will be ordering the I6 book shortly, before I wear out my welcome here and exhaust everyone's patience.

65FB, If you want full roller rockers, talk to Mike W. (AzCoupe). He has a line on the "Street Terra" imports from down here.

The hardened head bolt washers do not need to be any fancy pants brand, just grade eight hardened washers. I pay around 40¢ each for them, IIRC. Use them as a matter of course.

Regards, Adam.

I believe the only head bolt that needs thread sealant is the front one on the passenger side. It goes right into the water jacketg. Poke something down the other holes and you'll see that they bottom out. Speaking of the other head bolt holes, make sure you run a thread chaser (or bottoming tap) down each one.

Tom

I remember your point from prior advice. I checked the 1965 Ford Shop Manual, which relates that thread sealant should be used on the number 1 (as you said) and number 6 passenger side head bolts. So, this I shall do with reassembly. I will also use grade 8 washers. that should take care of potential problems, assuming the block is ok. Thanks for the heads up on the thread sealant.

fastback:

I just pulled the 250 out of my 70 Maverick. I'll have to check out #6 on the passenger side. When I put the 250 (72 Mav this time) back together a few months ago, I didn't put any sealant on #6.

A tip on the hardened head bolt washers: Jack told me that Chevorlet ("shove it or leave it") small block washers fit.

Tom

p.s. My 1970 shop manual says "coat the threads of the end bolts on the right side with a small amount of water resistant sealer." I just looked at my block -- the "end" bolt to the rear, and all others, except the right (passenger) front, are blind holes. Go figure.

Of course that is great, but I was also looking for roller tip, which is different than merely adjustable.

Click to expand...

The link I posted is the source for roller tip rockers ($285), regular adjustable rocker setups are only about $75 or so from Gary. You'll need to get the correct pushrods if you don't already have them. AzCoupe is your source for full roller rockers (roller on the rocker shaft and tip).

perhaps the 200 head is not as tall and I can just use the 200 headbolts?

Click to expand...

The head "height" is the same between the 200/250.

BTW, the stock rocker ratio for the small six is 1.5:1. The custom roller rocker setup offered through Rocker Arm Specialist has a ratio of 1.6:1.

Maverick":3nqe4d5d said:

fastback:

I just pulled the 250 out of my 70 Maverick. I'll have to check out #6 on the passenger side. When I put the 250 (72 Mav this time) back together a few months ago, I didn't put any sealant on #6.

A tip on the hardened head bolt washers: Jack told me that Chevorlet ("shove it or leave it") small block washers fit.

Tom

p.s. My 1970 shop manual says "coat the threads of the end bolts on the right side with a small amount of water resistant sealer." I just looked at my block -- the "end" bolt to the rear, and all others, except the right (passenger) front, are blind holes. Go figure.

Click to expand...

Ah, you are speaking of a 250 block. I am putting a 250 head on a 200 block, hence the difference. I have no reference soure for the 250 block and defer to your sources on that. Oh my, this is starting to become rocket science (grin).

The link I posted is the source for roller tip rockers ($285), regular adjustable rocker setups are only about $75 or so from Gary. You'll need to get the correct pushrods if you don't already have them. AzCoupe is your source for full roller rockers (roller on the rocker shaft and tip).

Thanks for clearing this up. I appreciate having this source revealed.


The head "height" is the same between the 200/250.

Ditto.

BTW, the stock rocker ratio for the small six is 1.5:1. The custom roller rocker setup offered through Rocker Arm Specialist has a ratio of 1.6:1.[/quote]

Hmmm, I better take this into account when selecting the cam in terms of overall lift. Thanks again.

250 block and head. The shop manual section that says to put sealant on the "end" head bolts on the passenger side, covers 170, 200, and 250 cubes.

Coming from the school of overkill, I'll chase the threads for all headbolts, then put sealant on all of them. (grin). Probably the difference in the shop manuals is the difference between the years. 65 versus the later. Hey, wait a minute, maybe no. 6 is the "end" head bolt? (more grin). Once again, two minds separated bya common language.

Thanks for being such a good sport on this one. I really appreciate your posts and advice. Keep em coming any time you think of something this newbie would overlook.

Just got back from trying to grease an a/c idler puller on the 78 deisel mercedes. Use aerosal white lithium grease. Works well on throttle linkage. Probably too thin for a pulley. Could not find any way to take the pulley apart to expose the bearing, so , just shot and now I will drive with crossed fingers for a while. So far, the whine has gone away.