Ready to start assembling my 200...tips, hints, sugestions,

Hey all. I've got everything I need to start the reassembly of my 200 (exept my OZ head and intake...maybe here tomorrow!):

'68 block bored .020 and decked to .010
block has been cleaned, primed, and painted
crank polished, new parts a plenty...carb, bearings, roller rockers, cam...the works

now, where do I start?!? I actually have a good friend down here that has many years of engine building experience, so I'm not concerened about getting it all back together. What I was looking for are the "watch-out-fors." The things that you guys with experience specific to this motor only can know.

Any guidance is always appreciated!
Thanks gang
Bryce

Make sure to do a good job on the rear main seal. (Is that the kind of comment you want? )

watch your fingers!

do you want to add a gear drive timing set to that 200 build up? i have one that i never installed and ended up going with the dual roller from fspp. the gear drive is also from fspp


thanks
John

addo":c9fifz23 said:

Make sure to do a good job on the rear main seal. (Is that the kind of comment you want? )

Click to expand...

Definitely!!! I've replaced mine twice and it still leaks! :x

Later,

Doug

Yeah, I'm not going to settle for any leaks! Are there tricks to doing the rear main "well"?

I've got a double roller timing set from Mike as well...thanks though

Gentleman, i see a great number of you who have rear main oil seal leakage.
Use the felpro neoprene rear main oil seal. remove the dowel from the old rope seal holder. When installing the seal put the mating ends of the seal at 10;00 o'clock & 4:00 o'clock. Do not put the mating surface at the rear main cap sealing line. At the mating ends of the seal place a very small dab or rtv or better yet get a tube of FIPG sealant from a toyota or lexus dealership parts counter. Believe me this sealant is the best.
Also at the space where the rear main bearing cap contacts the block, place a very small bead at the outer parting line where the rear main cap contacts the block. Do this & your rear main leakage will be eliminated. :idea: Good luck Bill

THAT's what I was looking for!!! You rock

Some suggest using a later year narrow shank bolt for the left rear headbolt. This is the headbolt hole that oil flows through to reach the rocker assembly and other parts of the head. Using the narrow shank bolt allows for more oil flow.

Also, as I've seen others on this board warn, if you shaved much off the head (decking the block counts too), you should use hardened washers on the headbolts to ensure they don't bottom in their bores, causing you to not be able to accurately torque the head down.