Tranny fluid all over the place....

i see that i can't leave you gentlemen alone at all....

i know Bubba patched his transfer case with JB weld once (after he put the hole in it), and it held nicely till he got a new case
i'd be cautiously optimistic, and in the mean time i'd wonder why Mr. Aaron didn't notice this crack
 
is there a certain amount of time that i should let the jbweld cure b4 i add the tranny fluid? i put it on around 4:30 yesterday and was going to wait till 4:30 today b4 i put any juice in it............. is that long enough? :eek:
 
HI JOSIES
It depends on if it is in a prusher area.. there is a lot of prusher in an auto tranny I'm thinking 100's of lbs so It might not hold anyway but I guess worth a try. if it don't hold maybe the weld thing might be better.. it should say on the tube how long befor you can juice it up. :USA:
tim
 
Josie...

JB Weld (the normal stuff) cures in about 24 hrs. The problem with failure of JB weld is normally not enough hardener, improper prep of the area to be patched and the wrong bonding surface. If you are talking a cast alum trans housing..then you need to get the area really clean and wipe it down with carb cleaner to remove all oils.

If you have fluid still in the trans..(like its on its side) then would have had to use a vacuum to clean the outside then air blow off the crack and try to push any residue in the crack back into the trans. Once you know the crack and the area on the outside is clean..then mix the two tubes and using a wooden spatula...press the mixture into the crack, then swirl it around the edges of the crack.

Our problem here is that we dont know what your crack looks like. So sending a picture or describing it by length and width is better than just saying its a crack. (No not all cracks look alike)

{Man...I can see it coming from everyone..so keep it down guys!)
 
no pic of crack yet...as soon as weather cooperates i'll try to get one.....
i haven't put any fluid in yet and i'm sort of doubtful that its going to hold it and if it does i bet it doesn't last long......as for were its located the best i can describe is that it's about an inch above the lines that come out of the case...i know thats vague but i do not know the proper lingo, sorry.
it didn't just leak out either it poured out really quick with some force.......
 
OK...so I take it that you still have it on the car and are afraid to move it. Well..I would go ahead and put the fluid in and if it holds take a small drive. So far so good and then longer drives.

If it leaks than I would really try to find a guy that can braze or muggy weld it. I know there is also a stick of metal (like a welding rod) that can be used like brazing that really works. I saw it at a car show this summer..but it was quite amazing and it would suck into the crack some before it hardened.
 
I wouldn`t trust the JB weld to last very long (I`m not a very trusting person), it would prolly be best to get it welded .
 
JB weld if applied right will seal the leak, now here is the iffy part, if it was clean and didn't have oil on it. Everyone I have ever seen was fine the best thing to do is to just drive it and see you have the most pressure at WOT in 1st gear so puch it and hold it at WOT until it shifts into third then as fast as possible get under it and inspect for leaks around the patch, if it was oil free when you patched it and it is not leaking you will be fine and I wouldn't worry about it as long as it isn't a stress point where it will keep spreading...
 
KY....Alumiweld is the stuff. I saw it a few years back at the IHRA's in Indy. the demo for this was awesome. Rodders were bringing stuff to the guys table and he would weld it, repair and so on. It was awesome stuff, easy to use and sets fast and more permanent than any metallized compound and makes JB weld seem like bubble gum.

After using it, it can be milled, drilled, tapped etc and its a perfect repair for alum parts and casings. The key part I liked was that the activator is in the metal rod...so once you heat it and it flows and then cools...you cannot remelt it again. If flows the same as a good brazing rod. Ok..I stop since its not spose to be an infomercial.

Josie, I would definately try this if the JB weld doesnt work. One or two sticks of this in the right hands has to be cheaper than a new casing.
 
I got some alumaloy to try to fix the air conditioning condenser on my truck... didn't have too much luck with that, I think it was a little too thin of a material to try to repair... although they do show them repairing a radiator in the commercial... I'm sure it'll work good for thicker things (like a tranny case)... I kept the stuff just for that reason...
 
well it didn't hold. it worked for like 3 days and then....Sw0osh all over the place again............. :x

i guess the safest or best way to go from here is to find a new casing.......i think i'd at least feel comfortable knowing that there isn't a weld or some sort of material that could break at any time holding my tranny fluid in..........
thanks for all the ideas everyone........that's what makes this site great!

regards.
 
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