crackin open the 250

when i got my maverick there was already a big dent in the front of the pan. it was never a problem but recently i havent ben able to seal the drain plug. i think its a combination of a crease from the dent leading right to the drain hole which is probably a small crack originating off the drian hole. so if the hole isnt slightly spraded apart from a crack there probably is some stripping involved too. ive tried rubber washers on the plug which used to work but that dent's crease dosnt allow a flat surfac for it to seal.

anyway i read my old chiltons maverick guide on I6 oil pans. looks like you just un-bolt it and bolt the new one back up. i was wondering if the timing cover would have to be losened but it didnt mention anything. but when i read how to change the timing cover it instructs you to drop the pan. but since im leaving the cover it shouldnt be an issue.

so while im up in there what else should i get into. figure it's a good time to hang a new oil pump. 32 years of pushing is a long time. I havent had any reason to belive thre to be an issue but should i do the rod bearings and bolts.

so what would be a good place to get a pan? the chrome JC Whitney valve cover fit like crap and as much as i'd like a chrome pan it definatly wont be their cheap china crap. classicinlins.com has a nice one but $300+ seem a little too much. can i just walk into a napa and order one? finish is not important, i'll just paint it blue if its not chrome

i cant find any oil pumps on classic inlines. after that napa fule pump cracked in half on me after a year im not sure i want to trust the oil pump. any other high quality "normal" use options out there? probably donr need a HV for a cruiser?

it looks like they will have the hook up on ARP bolts if i decide to go that far. rod bolts=$60 main bolts=$110 seems a little excesive for something thats not getting a full rebuild but i know im gonna regret it when i break a rod off the crank. isnt that how it always is? they have clevite main bearings($85) and rods($45) but i could probably order it all through my uncle's napa employee discount for a little less.

feel free to voice any opinions on the matter

not sure about the oil pan but National Parts Depot has an oil pump for the 250 mustang for about 60 bucks their parts are usually good quality as they support many mustang restoration shops and they havent steered me wrong yet also i have been running an autozone pump for a year and a half with no problems and a good oil pressure reading.

Check the oil pressure before changing the pump. It may be well enough placed to stay put. I wouldn't dig into the motor unless it was getting bored, torque plate honed and decked.

The oil pan swap is easy as you describe - unbolt, clean gasket faces, apply beads of sealant or Permatex #3 to both metal surfaces, fit up oil pan and tension to spec.

Note that increased oil leakage may be a sign of excess crankcase pressure. Could be a good time to test compression.

Cheers, Adam.

how far do you want to go.
you wont be able to fit new rod bolts as they need to be machined to fit it also recomended to have the big ends and mains checked for roundness due to the extra tension you run with them.
you dont need to remove the timing cover
if your wanting to re new it for the next few years before a total over haul this is wha i whould do
drop the sump and harmonic balancer off then get out the kero gun and blast around 2 gallons or so of kero to clean the bottom end of the block right up before dismantling it.
then change the timing chain to a double row chain
then working from no1 main and no1 big end back and blowing kero throught the oil galleries in the crank esp if you give the crank a linsh.
i whould also probly leave the 7th main up esp is the rear main is not leaking.
then just replace the oil pump have the pick up costic bathed.
also why not fit up a enlarged and baffled pan this having your bottom end and oiling system sorted for any extra plans later on.

Howdy 250Mav and All:

My first choice would be to drop the stock pan and check it for repairability. Once it is off it can easily be hammered back into shape. Any cracks can be welded and finished.

Be sure to have the drain plug in place if you need to hammer near the drain hole. Better yet, replace the plug with a bolt from the outside and a nut with a washer on the inside. Tightening this bolt/nut may be all the straightening you will need, to stop a leak.

Second choice would be to find a good used pan at the recycle yards.

In either case, a good cleaning, a coat of paint, some new gaskets and sealer and you're good to go.

As far as other "Fixes", I'd leave it alone. If it ain't broke- and so on! Give it all a visual check. IF nothing looks alarming button it up and enjoy.

That's my two cents, for what it's worth.

Adios, David

addo":16f110wu said:

Note that increased oil leakage may be a sign of excess crankcase pressure. Could be a good time to test compression.

Cheers, Adam.

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its leaking when its sat parked, compleatly cooled. i got it parkd ovr a coffee can right now catching it all. the oil change i just did it hat pushed over its limit i think. i probably killed that last thread in there holding back the oil.



hey lyonsy, whats Kero? never heard of it.

CZLN6":16f110wu said:

Howdy 250Mav and All:

My first choice would be to drop the stock pan and check it for repairability. Once it is off it can easily be hammered back into shape. Any cracks can be welded and finished.

Adios, David

Click to expand...

seems like a alot of for a old pan. i think i'll be able to find a cheap replacment over on the maverick boards. do 250 pans interchange with 170/200 pans?

i was just going to do the pump since i was already in there. i figured its just a matter of a few bucks and a few bolts.

since nothing else ls like its going to be a potential problem i guess i'll just leave the bolts and bearings be.

Howdy Back:

No, the 250 does not interchange with 170/200 oil pans. Sorry.

Adios, David

kerosean or unrefined jet fuel
they use jet fuel for parts washers but
all depends on far you wanna go]
mighgt be the excuse to drop a fire breathing 250 turbo in

ohhh ight, i got ya

i got a ricer friend who still owes me a few favors for rebuilding his front end after a wreck in his '97 240

...that extra turbo and intercooler down in his basement