Gasket sealer?

michael_cini

michael_cini

Well-known member
OK, I'm confused about what gasket sealer works for what application. Could someone more knowledgable fill me in on these.

What's Permatex #2 for?
What's Permatex #3 for?
What's Permatex gray for?
The old gaskets on my car seem to have some sort of red sealer on them, what is that?

Enlighten me, please!
 
the red stuff on your current gaskets is probably silicone. it comes in a variety of colors, including red.
off the top of my head, i'm not sure what sealer is what, but my preference is aviation-type gasket sealer
 
#1 hardens
#2 stays flexible(so the label says) :roll:
didn't know there's a number 3
the red stuff I've used has been high temp
blue was a gasket maker

I use the lexus gasket sealant from toyota

I don't know if they still make it, but I used to use yamabond on my old VW's.
 
thanks for the replies.

so what application are these good for? i'm confused about which is good for what. for example which would i use for a fuel pump gasket and which would i use for the oil pan, etc.
 
Michael, for the most part, any sealer will do just that, seal. You almost can get away with only one type providing it's fuel and oil resistant which most are going to be. I have a "general" sealant and and a high temp sealant. I'm not sure what number they are; I believe they both harden.

I would pick out maybe two or three providing they cover the basis. Read what's on the package for intended use. Also, pick up some lock-tite to be used on the bolt threads.
 
Okay, here is the deal.

A Gasket sealer does two things.

1.) It holds the gasket in place while you install stuff.

2.) It fills in voids between the gasket and the mating surface.

Now, if you have brand new parts, #2 shouldn't be an issue (ha).

Gasket sealer is a band-aid, but it's one that we all rely on and works pretty well.

Now there are about 500 different kinds out there, and they are all basically the same. Everyone has their preference, and for the most part, everyone is right.

I use Permatex Ultra Copper for 90% of stuff. It's high temp, and I like it's consistency better than the pure silicone sealers (it's less like sticky snot). The only problem with it is that it dissolves in gasoline, so it's no good for intake manifolds. Learned that the hard way.

For gasoline exposed gaskets, I use Permatex Hi-Tack. I don't know what # that is, but it's the yellow sticky snot stuff. It cures hard and is sticky as hell. Works really well for those gaskets that you don't want to really come off again. Only problem with it is it is gross, it makes a mess, and it's thin. It doesn't really fill voids really well.

I also keep a tube of the blue silicone around for stuff that the ultra copper doesnt seem to work well on (like my valve cover, for some reason I was having trouble getting good adhesion to the head with it.

If something is really pissing me off, I'll use epoxy.


So really, take your pick. The above combo won't fail you, but neither will other peoples suggestions most likely.
 
I think the big issues is like you mentioned, using the right type for the fluids and or temps that its going to be in contact with. Most of them dont like gas, some of them dont like oil so there is not a true multipurpose sealer for auto. Getting the parts clean seems to be 95% of the trick and the longer you can let the stuff cure the better. Also not using too much seems to help alot. More is usually not better.

Fresh machined stuff is the best because there are not big gaps that need filling.

I have had the best luck with cork gaskets in oil areas not using anything. Using sillycone seems to let the gaskets slide and squish too much especially on something like an oil pan. For the places that have water I have had luck using just a film of just about any of the RTV's and since these tend to be the paper type of gaskets the slide thing doesnt seem to be an issue. When dealing with messed up parts (like a trashed oil pan) I skip the gasket and use a bead of RTV, I let it cure for a few hours then install the part just tight enough to make contact all the way around. I then let it cure as long as I can (hopefully at least as long as the the instructions recomend) then do a final torque.
 
Yes, Following the cure instructions is important. The process for silicone based sealers is as follows

1.) Apply and let sit until tacky (about 2 seconds)

2.) Install part finger tight without compressing any of the silicone

3.) Let set 30 minutes or until silicone has "skinned over" IE outer skin of silicone has started to cure and is no longer sticky.

4.) Torque part down

5.) Let cure 24 hours

6.) Off you go.


Now, #5 is negotiable depending on what you are trying to do, but # 2 & 3 are absolutely essentially. This prevents the silicone from all squeezing out of the joint when you tighten it.
 
Set-up time with Silicones varies enormously depending on ambient temperature. I've had it go hard before I've finished tightening the relevant bolts. :x

Permatex #3 is my favourite; it seems to be the closest to what Ford used on flywheel bolts, and also works well on 2V intake gaskets - frequently they are then reusable.

With any thicker sealant, not applying excess is an important detail. A 1/8" bead will squash flat to seal a wide area.
 
Bort62":3ctvolze said:
Okay, here is the deal.

A Gasket sealer does two things.

1.) It holds the gasket in place while you install stuff.

2.) It fills in voids between the gasket and the mating surface.

Now, if you have brand new parts, #2 shouldn't be an issue (ha).

Gasket sealer is a band-aid, but it's one that we all rely on and works pretty well.

Now there are about 500 different kinds out there, and they are all basically the same. Everyone has their preference, and for the most part, everyone is right.

I use Permatex Ultra Copper for 90% of stuff. It's high temp, and I like it's consistency better than the pure silicone sealers (it's less like sticky snot). The only problem with it is that it dissolves in gasoline, so it's no good for intake manifolds. Learned that the hard way.

For gasoline exposed gaskets, I use Permatex Hi-Tack. I don't know what # that is, but it's the yellow sticky snot stuff. It cures hard and is sticky as hell. Works really well for those gaskets that you don't want to really come off again. Only problem with it is it is gross, it makes a mess, and it's thin. It doesn't really fill voids really well.

I also keep a tube of the blue silicone around for stuff that the ultra copper doesnt seem to work well on (like my valve cover, for some reason I was having trouble getting good adhesion to the head with it.

If something is really pissing me off, I'll use epoxy.


So really, take your pick. The above combo won't fail you, but neither will other peoples suggestions most likely.
Click to expand...

Yellow monkey snot is the yellow crap your talking about. it's 3m 80001 trim adhesive actually
 
It's important to note that silicone sealer is not used with most gasket types. Most silicone sealer is to be used without or instead of a gasket. For any type of O-Ring or linear rubber gasket - no silicone should be used. Oil Pans unless seriously tweaked should only need as mentioned a light adhesive type sealer - mostly to aid in getting the gasket in place. A little dollop at the sharp corners and bearing lands is a good idea also. Exceptions are the rule of course.

The '61 Comet P.O. must have thought - "if a little is good - a lot must be better". THere was blue RTV used on the coolant hoses, intake carb gasket , caked inside the valve cover, floating in the radiator...


Powerband
100_2003.jpg
 
I used Ultra Copper in the corners of the oil pan gasket and on the exhaust manifold. Everywhere else, I used 3M spray trim adhesive to stick the gasket on (if I needed it stuck) and that was it. I reused the old rubber valve cover gasket that's been on there for a million years. I don't even know if it'll pull off of the valve cover or not, don't want to risk the perfect seal.
 
:D Hi Michael.Theres only two sealers that I have ever used.
1-Permatex#2(R).Use it to stick the gasket to the REMOVABLE part.Makes removal and cleanup MUCH easier.
2-BlackRTV for the end cork seals on the front and rear of the intake manifold on a 302.Threw away the cork pieces.They ARE USELESS.
Leo
 
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