Greg Gaitens
Active member
Ihave been told the 200 six sits lower to the ground in the car than a v8 on a 66 stang. Is this true? Sterroids is concerned their rack + pinion won't clear the motor when it replaces the cross bar.
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- Thread starter Greg Gaitens
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I just installed a Total Control R&P into my wife's '63 Falcon with a 250 and it fits just fine.
I would guess that there's about 1.5" between the pan and the rack.
I think the Steeroids rack bolts in using the old steering box bolt holes so it would be further back from the front than ours. So you should gain a little more clearance.
But from my experience in that area of the car, the 6 and the 8 are almost the same from a height standpoint.
Will
I would guess that there's about 1.5" between the pan and the rack.
I think the Steeroids rack bolts in using the old steering box bolt holes so it would be further back from the front than ours. So you should gain a little more clearance.
But from my experience in that area of the car, the 6 and the 8 are almost the same from a height standpoint.
Will
Greg Gaitens
Active member
Will, Thanks for the input. Steeroids said they would allow me to return it if it doesn't clear. I think I will order it and see. How do you like your Flamming River R&P? Is it power? I need to go power based on the tire and wheel combination and the fact that my Wife's car. The Steeroids power racks are designed to work with the Ford factory high pressure PS pumps as other brands usually require their own custom low pressure pumps.
Greg Gaitens
Active member
I am disappointed with the Steeroids power rack I installed on my '66 with the 200 six. I could share great detail about the install problems but the bottom line is I was able to overcome all but one of the obstacles without to much trouble. The remaining issue is a big one. The alignment of the U-joint shaft as it connects from the bottom of the steering column to the rack is very unforgiving. Steeroids currently has no good solution for locating & supporting the steering column at the base of the fire wall. Getting the base of the steering column in the perfect spot so that the steering does not bind has proven very difficult. When driving the car the steering wheel will not return freely when completing a corner as you would expect with either a power or manual steering system. I have tremendous time and energy into getting the power steering pump brackets and pump mounted along with the proper pulleys for the crank and water pump needed for the 200 six. I have to say that when I convert my '65 fastback to a rack & pinion I will likely try the system from Randall's Racks. Although the lock to lock turns on Randall's unit is 3.5 vs. the 3 for Steeroids, I think Randall's has done a better job with engineering the fire wall support for the steering column and the U-joint shaft alignment.
Greg,
The Total Control kit has a lower steering column support. Very nice I might add....all billet!
I think you can order just that piece and maybe a new U-joint and "D-bar" (the shaft between the two U-joints).
Did you have to shorten the column with the Steeroids rack?
You do for the Total Control. Very easy to do though. Assuming you have the tools!
Total Control also sells the lower column "cap"....also billet!
Later,
Will
The Total Control kit has a lower steering column support. Very nice I might add....all billet!
I think you can order just that piece and maybe a new U-joint and "D-bar" (the shaft between the two U-joints).
Did you have to shorten the column with the Steeroids rack?
You do for the Total Control. Very easy to do though. Assuming you have the tools!
Total Control also sells the lower column "cap"....also billet!
Later,
Will
Greg Gaitens
Active member
The Steeroids kit does require you shorten the steering column tube and steering shaft. The column needs to be shortened so it passes through the fire wall to the engine side just a couple inches. The steering shaft is cut a few inches longer than the column tube. You then need to put a "D" in the shaft and dimple it to mate with the U joint on their shaft. I purchased an aluminum doughnut they sell that inserts into the base of the column tube and provides support for the steering shaft as it passes through the hole in the center of it.
I will look into the support piece that Total Control has to offer to support the steering column where it passes through the firewall. I'll check out their U joint shaft assembly as well but I suspect I might be starting another engineering project if I go this way. I have already customized by mechanical clutch linkage specific to the Z-bar mounting locations on the frame and engine block and customized the Z-bar rod length to the clutch pedal and the clutch adjustment rod length. These changes were all done with attention to detail so that they would not appear obvious to the casual observer. I would think the Total Control rack will position their "D" post on the rack in a different location and it may interfere with my clutch linkage. I sincerely appreciate the suggestions though.
I have a concept on how I want to fabricate the faire wall support. It's very similar to the Randall's Rack support. I'll use the TC clamp if it looks like it will work and they will sell it. Randall's would not sell me the piece and I think that's understandable. They did say they would sell me the piece if I purchase their rack when I do my fastback. I think if I get the front wheels up in the air, loosen all connections in the column under the dash and at the rack and locate a buddy to jerk the base of the column around while I push and pull the column back and forth the firewall, we can eventually find the sweet spot that will allow the rack to turn freely. That's plan anyway. I hope to find time to try it before the snow comes.
I don't know how to post pics on this forum but I would be happy to send you ones of the work I have done for your reference or to post on the forum. I would just need an email address to send them to.
I will look into the support piece that Total Control has to offer to support the steering column where it passes through the firewall. I'll check out their U joint shaft assembly as well but I suspect I might be starting another engineering project if I go this way. I have already customized by mechanical clutch linkage specific to the Z-bar mounting locations on the frame and engine block and customized the Z-bar rod length to the clutch pedal and the clutch adjustment rod length. These changes were all done with attention to detail so that they would not appear obvious to the casual observer. I would think the Total Control rack will position their "D" post on the rack in a different location and it may interfere with my clutch linkage. I sincerely appreciate the suggestions though.
I have a concept on how I want to fabricate the faire wall support. It's very similar to the Randall's Rack support. I'll use the TC clamp if it looks like it will work and they will sell it. Randall's would not sell me the piece and I think that's understandable. They did say they would sell me the piece if I purchase their rack when I do my fastback. I think if I get the front wheels up in the air, loosen all connections in the column under the dash and at the rack and locate a buddy to jerk the base of the column around while I push and pull the column back and forth the firewall, we can eventually find the sweet spot that will allow the rack to turn freely. That's plan anyway. I hope to find time to try it before the snow comes.
I don't know how to post pics on this forum but I would be happy to send you ones of the work I have done for your reference or to post on the forum. I would just need an email address to send them to.