Can someone dig up some pics?

I need a couple before and after pics of a log head bowl porting/cleaning up.

I'm going old school on this 200 build, and I'm gonna make some enormous power! I mean something like 125 maybe even 130 horsepower when I'm done I know, I know, it's a lot to ask for out of a log head...

So anyone have any pics stored away? I searched abotu 40 diffrrent phrases and didn't get anything but a silly Ausie head port picture... Dayam those exhaust valve holes were HUGE


Thanks!


FE

Bad link bro....

Today's work...

Missing some key pics... Here's a couple more...

That's looking good. GEt more aggressive with the exhaust ports, you can make them bigger. Are you going with big valves?

Thanks Jack, I know I can go larger on the exhaust but i don't have a gasket to match it to yet. I want to see inside the ports on the intake as well. I showed you the front and the back of the intake. I will lable the pictures later.

If anyone has a picture with the valves out that would help. I need to know how much bigger I can go.

looks like great work!

Friggin took me alomst 4 hours for light work on 3 ports!

Still need pics of ported loghead bowls.

I am going to install 1.75 Intake and 1.499" exhaust valves. The 1.5" valves are chevy valves adn you will NOT find me putting chevy crap in my FORD!

Howdy.

You can use the INTAKE valves from a 144 ci head as EXHAUST valves on your project.

Replacement Intake valves are 1.468" as compared to the 1.38" stock exhaust valves. When I was doing research for our Handbook, I checked with Manley to see if there was any difference between run-of-the-mill intake and exhaust replacement valves... They said they were ALL cast of the same material.


I have had the 1.468" in my "well modified" 200 for 8 years and 36,000 miles without a problem. My brother Dave (co-author) has run his 1.468's for about the same amount of time. No other valves were available then. Ain't it nice to have Classic Inlines?

Classic inlines has stainless 1.5" made by SI Valves (www.sivalves.com) called a Portflow; part number #STD SEV-2530-S. They are not Chevy parts, because they have a smaller valve stem diameter, are shorter, and a different retainer lock.

http://www.sivalves.com/ocdomestic_valvesps_ford.html

I LIKE the grinding you have done so far. The bowls look DARN good. I'd agree with the suggestion to port match the exhaust ports when you get a gasket. For what it is worth... There is a theory to use a "Reversion dam" by leaving the exhaust port slightly smaller than than the header to create a "Dam" to stop exhaust gases from sneaking back into the port. I just matched mine.

I think your pictures of the bowl work and the porting are going to become everyone's standard to emulate.

One more thing... now that you bonded with your head, stick your middle finger up the intake valve holes as FAR as you can reach. There is often a casting flash wall about 1/8" to 1/4" high. If you lookl at the outside of the head, you'll be able to spot the seam.

Good Luck

Is it OK to cut the guides down that far? Or does that head not have guides installed?

If you are going to give it a valve job then it's fine... I cut mine off because I'm putting new iron valve guides in it. The exhaust are the ones needed to have guide stems extend into the port, but not necessarily that far.

The photobucket pics showed up. Thanks!

Anyone else have any more bowl porting pics I can view for a log head?

I'm going to use 1.499 exhaust valves, and 1.75 intake... I have a book and I'll post the part #'s when possible.

The valves are indeed cast of the same steel. I'll be installing hardened seats in my exhaust, but only because I drive hot and hard everywhere I go, Heat is the only thing causes valve sinkage.

More this weekend I hope.

Howdy,

Previously, I told Falcon'around to stick his middle finger (it is the longest) into the intake bowl and up the sides of the intake port runner. Do be CAREFUL - that flashing is SHARP!

This picture shows why. This was a project head (now very rusty) that I milled the top off the log. The original intent was to be able to bolt on a steel plate that would run a pair of Holley/Webers, or with a different plate, running all sorts of combinations. BUT - - STUFF happens, and... well you know.

Grinding this flash out is a chore. Fat diameter grinders (like a Dremel) won't get in far enough. I've have had some success with a flexible shaft on a Dremel. But, the best so far, has been buying a cutter with a long shaft.



So, there you have it. The "why" you give your head the finger.

Dennis

Dennis Dennis Dennis.... When I hog a mutha out, I REALLY hog a mutha out

There's not one piece of the intake or exhaust ports I cannot reach.

Here is my head as it sat a few weeks ago...

my cable company is going to schitt right now and my photo's are unavailable... Here's a blurry one... I see that your photo has the same cut angle on the log as mine.... Peculiar...


:arrow:

OK, here are some pictures on the best way to port your log head.

Since it's tedius and time consuming, hogging out the bowls are ports are often done shoddily...

For instance, I've seen ported heads where the first port done was done nicely then the following ports were only scuffed up to look all shiney without actually enlarging the port at all...

Look at the pic below, see the line I've hogged across the TOP of the intake port in this 1969/1970 200 log head.

The cleft looks deeper than it actually is because of the light... Notice also the FLAT roof in the intake ports.

Here's a better pic, taken from the upside down position.


Then grind the schitt out of it until the entire roof has the same depth, like below... First pic is partial, second pic is mostly done... Remember WIDER and TALLER adn ROUNDER Those are the magic words.

See the deep W made in the roof, that's to illustrate the old height VS the new hight and larger diameter of the intake runner.


Now look at the right side missing... Sorry for the blurry pics, using my cell phone....



The bottoms of the log ports are nicely rounded, make the tops a lot higher like the pics above, the left one is almost finished and the right one is still needing work to open it up. Right now I have opened them up tremendously from the original. I'm done with the pics for another several day's as I work further on it.

While I have been following the thread and love what you have done the last pics were a little blurry and are giving me a headache trying to look to close.

Looks good though.

those pics were from my phone.

Better picrutes coming when i finish the head.

I also updated a couple pictures above. When I'm done I'll show the entire unit with a good camera.

Dulled up 3 bit's already! Expensive buggers!

Falconaround, any new pictures?

Funny you should say that...

I found a crack in the last exhaust port I was hoggin' out... (

Why I didn't do a thorough inspection first I am simply stunned...

I am going to do several things first then possibly repair the crack and then put up the pics.

I discovered the crack 2 day's ago....