more changes to the engine

early ford fan":10hb8sfs said:
so the manifolds not wide enough to direct mount it?and btw why do none of the racers use the three carb setup?i know its hard to set up,but the even fuel distribution should be worth it.

the Holley carb base is too wide to mount directly on the log head. Plus I raised the carb up for better angle for the throttle cable.

I thought about three 1 barrel carbs , but I do not want to deal with 3 carbs on 1 engine myself. Better fuel distribution would be an advantage
 
I don't know why you don't have enough room to mount the adapter as is.

I have a picture but I don't seem to be able to post it.....?[/img]
 
PaulS":3otnhdby said:
I don't know why you don't have enough room to mount the adapter as is.

I have a picture but I don't seem to be able to post it.....?[/img]

I needed 1 1/4" of spacer to get the HW 5200 on there and still be able to pull the valve cover without removing the carb. That may be another reason Crosley wants another plate.
 
I am near finished with my new direct mount 2 barrel Holley carb program.

Chunk of aluminum with holes in it.

logheadport2-1.jpg


hole in the log intake manifold where aluminum bolts on:

logheadport-1.jpg


A bolt hole I wanted to plug and blend in for better flow;

adapter11.jpg


I machined up this plug , with an idea in mind.... there is a short stub that inserts into the allen plug head for alignment :

holeplug02.jpg



how it sits in the hole of the adapter... :

holeplug03.jpg



finished hole plug , with some blend work. I drilled a hole and tapped it for a 1/4 inch allen bolt. this sets the plug in tight so I can machine it. The carb and gasket will not let the plug come out and get into the engine

holeplug01.jpg
 
early ford fan":morc181j said:
is there a reason you couldn't use two allen screws at each end instead?


That was a thought but , the cast iron was a bit thin...so I used the 2 original holes.

will see how well this works or not
 
Crosley":dhlndtbf said:
early ford fan":dhlndtbf said:
is there a reason you couldn't use two allen screws at each end instead?


That was a thought but , the cast iron was a bit thin...so I used the 2 original holes.

will see how well this works or not


Its been about 8 years.


Lokked like it worked!


updated original photos

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It lookes like Crosely and MustangGeezer were raiding the same Holley 2-bbl racing tech accelerator cable linkages and Carb mounting positions

 
Further examples of Tony in AZ's smarts.

Well done. It'd be a cryin shame to loose these most excellent photos.






 
8 years later, the 200 cid engine still runs well. I achieved my goal of low 15's with a mild build engine.
 
I am so impressed.

Your car is very smartly appointed.

I do hope things continue to work out, and that you have a Falcon lot of fun in the Futura... :mrgreen:

viewtopic.php?f=22&t=71697&p=550549#p550549
xctasy":2aiq43zn said:
From the details you have, before nitrous, you have in excess of 205 flywheel hp.

Based on 15.1 sec 1/4 mile and 87.7 mph from http://www.wallaceracing.com/hpcalculatorquarter.php

Your HP computed from your vehicle ET is 155.00 rear wheel HP and 172.22 flywheel HP. (They use a 11.1% flywheel to rear wheel hp loss, which isn't realistic)
Your HP computed from your vehicle MPH is 145.85 rear wheel HP and 162.05 flywheel HP.

The auto power loss is about 39%, so you needed 215 hp to get the ET you have run before.....
 
Start with a late model head which has the large log. Don't waste your money on an early head.
If you are doing a direct mount 2bbl the first thing you need to do is get the head magnafluxed for cracks.
If the head is not cracked, now is the time to get an experienced person in brazing. He will preheat the head to 400 degrees F. Then he can fill in all the low spots around the mount area.
While the head is at 400 F its the time to weld in the center port divider. After the head cools do another magnaflux test for cracks again.
If ok now is the time to mill the log & try to take more material off the front area so the carb will sit closer to level.
Install new valve guides.
Now is the time to install the larger valves & hardened exhaust seats. Then grind the excess flash out of both bowls on the intake & exhaust.
Lap the the intake valves in & using a 30 degree cut with a valve grinder to remove the sharp edge to the lap in line.
Assemble the head with the correct valve springs for your camshaft & set installed height to those specs.
You probably will have to angle mill the adapter for the carb so it will sit vertical when installed.
The main point here is do any brazing or welding prior to any valve seat work.
Now you can mill the head to the correct chamber cc's. Doing all this work will bring the cost over $1000.00 if you follow these guidelines.
 
my goodness Bill. U certainly laid it out well.
I'm gunna download/paste the great details U posted esp the:
"...fill in all the low spots around the mount area...." part.
Some of our guys seemed to have miss it...
 
Tony avoided the pitfalls by reducing the plenumb area.


Heres a Hogged out 2-bbl direct mount D8 head showing the two low spots that need braising up.












Below it, an early C6 and a well welded up D8, showing "Areas to add filler"

The area of the early heads after attempting a direct mount is very restricted.

 
that last one shows perfection!
 
X great photos. There is power to be gained by just brazing up the low spots so you can take full advantage of the log gaining entry area.
My WOT A/F is 12.9 & of course my distributor advance & combination is spot on.
Case in point my 205" engine with a mild cam cranks out 139 RWH through a C-4 trans.
Do it right the first time. Bill
 
xctasy":3oy58czl said:
I am so impressed.

Your car is very smartly appointed.

I do hope things continue to work out, and that you have a Falcon lot of fun in the Futura... :mrgreen:

viewtopic.php?f=22&t=71697&p=550549#p550549
xctasy":3oy58czl said:
From the details you have, before nitrous, you have in excess of 205 flywheel hp.

Based on 15.1 sec 1/4 mile and 87.7 mph from http://www.wallaceracing.com/hpcalculatorquarter.php

Your HP computed from your vehicle ET is 155.00 rear wheel HP and 172.22 flywheel HP. (They use a 11.1% flywheel to rear wheel hp loss, which isn't realistic)
Your HP computed from your vehicle MPH is 145.85 rear wheel HP and 162.05 flywheel HP.

The auto power loss is about 39%, so you needed 215 hp to get the ET you have run before.....


I question the online estimater of horsepower my engine makes .. It does not feel like that much power.

Once I added my Fresh air 'ram type" intake into the right side headlight opening. The car responded by picking up just over 2 tenths from 15.4 to the 15.10s.. I beleive this shows how restrictive the log head is on air flow. I also increased the jet size in the carb by 1 number.

i wanted low 15 second time and 90 mph. I never got to the 90 mph. I hit 89 mph a few times.

The 1962 Falcon has been neutered ... Regular street tires, muffler added, mechanical cooling fan, the transmission converted back to automatic shifts. 3.55 gears with posi in the differential (4.10 removed)
 
"... has been neutered ..."
Y, Tony...I wouldn't think it too much for the street?
Thank you.
 
Plugging wsa111'S RWHP 139 hp chassis dyno figure into the formula, I get 227 hp net at the flywheel.


I use 1.63 factor.

This is because that's what I've seen on all 200 to 250 automatic Fords, shift kitted, high stall, whatever.

The way its decribed elseware on on line % calculations is not what I'm used to.


I use what I should have called a correction factor, which isn't actually a percent the way others use it.


The 1979 Crossflow 250 made 120 hp, or 92 Kilowatts of power at 3600 rpm, and only 62.6 Kilowatts of power at the rear wheels on a chassis dyno.

The factor redcution was just 1.46, but as a percetange, others recon it as 31%, the complement of the on line % generators 68%

http://www.onlineconversion.com/percentcalc.htm



viewtopic.php?f=3&t=19190


Untitled-TrueColor-02.jpg


1.60 factor loss in the 1979 Cortina 250 six (92 kw [120 hp], and 288 Nm [212 lb-ft] on the factory rating), but 57 KW and 168 Nm on the chassis dyno with a 3 stage auto

1.46 factor loss in the Falcon 250 six (92 kw [120 hp], and 288 Nm [212 lb-ft] on the factory rating), but 62.6 KW and 185 Nm on the chassis dyno with a 3 stage auto


For the Holden Kingswood with the GM 180 3 speed and 201 cubic inch 3.3 liter, it had 66 kW net listed, and 221 Nm in the adjusted factory Net outputs, but 41 kW and 122.4 Nm at the bags, or an 61% power loss


Based on the C4 and other Ford automatic transmissions verses the net flywheel factory ratings, a tranmissionand axle loss is up to 1.67, and as little as 1.39. As a manual, 1.264 factor, down to 1.163 as a manual.


It was wrong of me to ever use the term percent. Percent is per hundred, and is a confusing term, although very nice if your working out Gross Margins as an Chartered Accountant.

I've repeated the counterweight and electric dyno issues before, and they relate to automatic cars directly. The dynamic loss at the drags pans out as little as 1.15 to 1.17 if you use a transbraked C4. 1.10 to 1.11, well, its just an on line formula.

A very high level check was done in Australia by Chevy Off-road and Marine Engines in 1996.

The Australian (US made Cleveland built Windor OHV 5.0 was the 1992-1995 Mustang 5.0 or 1996-2001 Explorer engine. Ratings were the US engine, less 1.017 or its inverse, because you guys use SAE net, Australians use the German DIN net spec.


Your 235 hp SAE net SVT Cobra for 1993 was 268 hp DIN net on our same engined 1993 Ford (Australia) EBII Falcon GT, so go figure....that's the only case of cheating I can find from 1983 to date.

The other was the 1982 157 or 161 hp 2-bbl GT HO Mustang and RS Capri engine. Never again was a Mustang able to go as fast or as quickly again untill the 1986 5.0 HO EFI Mustang, which was 10 hp down on the 1985 4-bbl Mustang Capri engine, which was slower than the October 1981 Dearborn prototype Mustangs and Capris.

For 1995, the Aussie market, US made 5.0 it was 221.3 hp DIN net, and with a T5 and 9 bolt 7-7/8" axle, it made exactly 175 rwhp.

Factor reduction was 1.264.

Same deal was done during the Dana 44/ 8.8 axle era, same hp loss, axle made little difference.


Automatics, based on historical Australian Ford data using Stewart's Mustang Dyno from 1976 to 1981, yielded 1.63 to 1.41 reduction on non lockup automatic's with 7-7/8 to 9" axles.



You guys get 1.40 for AOD/9"
And 1.163 for Muncie M22/12 Bolt 8.8"

http://www.hotrod.com/articles/ccrp-0311-drivetrain-power-loss/

http://vb.foureyedpride.com/showthread.php?135557-Chasis-dyno-vs-engine-dyno

https://fordsix.com/viewtopic.php?t=71753

Note that in a drag race, net flywheel to rear wheel hp losses are different to chassis dyno verses engine dyno.

Its the flywheel effect that creates the disparity, and automatics do much better at drags than manuals.

All those "14-18% loss for manuals and around 19-24% loss from automatics" are true, but that's percentage, not a decimnalized factor.

On a chassis dyno, the total loss is more like a 1.27 to 1.60 factor, and it depends on transmission type, if it has a torque converter, and its stall speed. When you drag race a shift kitted auto, there is still a 1.05 to 1.06 factor loss in power over a manual. In addition, flywheel hp ratings for 80's Fords were SAE net, probably the most accurate and best controlled measure ever.
 
Crosley?
Duz it seem like less than 5% change or more than 50% as you drive it now?
 
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