rommaster is right. I don't know how many times I have to go over this. But if you use any of the late model heads with CIs port flow 1 3/4" intake, 1 1/2" exhaust valves both back cut 30 degrees with pocket porting (be careful not to screw up the short side radius) there is some wrong internet advice about this. Get your information from a reputible book. Forget all this hogging out the log crap. Not necessary. Port EFI will fix the fuel distribution problems if you do these mods and cam it properly, you won't need a lot of these other glitzy parts. You should be able to make 300 hp with less than 15 lbs boost. Yes, the new aluminum head is great. Get one if you can.
Now to get back on topic. I'll go over my experience with the C3 rods. When I took my first turbo engine to the drag strip (wanting to make a good showing because my peers were laughing at my 6) without properly checking my tuneup on the first pass I just put my foot to the floor and let her have it. Looked at my boost gauge, I had 26 lbs in first gear, made some funny noises, I backed off the throttle some and legged it on through. After the run, I pulled out the spark plugs and checked the pistons. 2 and 5 would not come anywhere near top dead center. The rods were bent like an S, but not broke. Eventually I found out the problem was too small of a turbine housing overpowering the too small wastegate. I could not adjust boost down. Also, the main problem was the MSD pick up wires I ran too close to the electric water pump wires and were randomly firing the ignition causing severe pre-ignition detonation. The excessive pressure bent the rods. The other 4 rods looked fine. So I guess what I'm saying here is, if you watch your tune up, I think the C3 rods should be fine to about 350 hp. Maybe more, who knows? I changed to aluminum rods so I can't give you a long history on the C3s underboost.
