what i discovered

1967JMG

Well-known member
I got my mustang at the age of 14 (2004) as a project for me and him to restore. I helped him restore his '37 Plymouth a year or two before that. About a year or so after we got it running ('05-'06) we found slew of irresolvable problems with the motor and thought it best to just buy a re-manufactured motor. At that time I was had a huge love for cars, especially 6 cyl mustangs, but was still learning (the numbers and letters on the side of the block and head didn't really mean much to me). The motor was suppose to be for a 66-67 mustang. But one day a few months ago I was just day-dreaming in my engine bay and just happened to glance upon the casting numbers on the side of my block and head. The numbers just didn't look right to me for a 66-67 engine. As it turns out, I am pretty sure that I have a '68 block and head. The block casting read C8DE6015-B, the head reads C 6 or 8 DE6090-B. So, my question is, what sort of C/R, and CC size should I have? And should I have flat or dished pistons? I've looked in the specs section on classic inlines, but I just can't determine exactly what I have.

Oh, and the motor is bored .020 over.

I plan on doing a lot of upgrades, like the aluminum head, cam, DUI, rockers, etc... but I need to know exactly what I am beginning with here.

Thanks for any input
-Julian
 
yep, looks like a '68 block and either 66 or 68 head. It is impossible to tell you anything about your compression ratio without actual numbers as measured from the disassembled engine.

Don't know if the pistons are dished or not without seeing them
Don't know how far down from the deck of the block your pistons are without measuring it
Don't know the compressed thickness of your headgasket without at least knowing the brand
Don't know if your head has been milled/shaved or how large your combustion chambers are without measuring them.

Unfortunately all of this requires disassembly..

When you start doing upgrades it won't matter what you have, just make sure you put enough time into your schedule for machine work if necessary for shaving/milling the head. The rest of that stuff is just replacement time, off with the old, on with the new.

There are probably a few things you should check before you upgrade
Do a compression test, are the cylinders within 10% of each other
If you compression test comes back with abnormal readings try it again wet, and if still abnormal perform a leakdown test to identify the cause of the readings (bad rings/valves)
Do you have adjustable or non-adjustable rocker assembly now, and what type of pushrods do you have and what will you need?
For a new cam you need to decide if you want to drop in a new one, or have your original one reground (addo's favorite)
Oil pressure readings, hot, cold, after a long drive, and my favorite, after a trip to Dairy Queen for a blizzard. (ok, maybe not that last one)

Essentially if your bottom end is in good condition, and you plan on replacing everything that bolts onto it, you are good to go.

-ron
 
Your engine is good as far as what you will need. It has the bigger bellhousing pattern which is the most important aspect of its date code. Otherwise its all pretty much the same, prolly if stock running about 9:1 compression ratio but the only way to know that sort of thing is to measure it all after taking it apart.
 
So there is no was to tell if it came with dished pistons or anything from the casting numbers?
What about from the cars VIN? What other info could that give me as far as the engine goes?
 
1967JMG":khe95e9a said:
So there is no was to tell if it came with dished pistons or anything from the casting numbers?
What about from the cars VIN? What other info could that give me as far as the engine goes?
Nope, sorry - really no way to know with an engine that old...could have been rebuilt several times, and who knows what pistons, milling, etc were done.

The VIN will only indicate which engine, 170 or 200. Beyond that there's no knowing. But I wouldn't worry too much about it, as you take it apart your questions will be answered.
 
That's what I figured, but I'd thought I would ask anyway.
I'm just trying to get as much info as I can because I will have a limited amount of time to get the project done once I start.
Does anyone know if '68 motors came stock with dished or flat pistons?
 
Back
Top