Stalling Problem

Here's the scenario. 1982 Cougar wagon with 200 six and all functional smog equipment.

Start the car in the morning. Runs great. Let it sit for 5 hours. Starts immediately but stalls at idle just as if it has a vacuum leak. Start/stall, start/stall. This goes on until it warms up then it's fine.

It acts like it needs to be choked but can't due the the ambient temp. Acts like it's very lean until it has been running for 5 minutes then all is well.

If I let it sit for two hours it's fine. Over three it acts like this. Over 8 all is well.

The ambient temp is close to 100* by 11 am. This is strange and has been doing this for the last couple of years and has been the same for the last three carbs that I've had on it. I'm convinced that it's heat related but not due to excessive engine heat. The choke is an electric type that has the vacuum pull off dashpot. All is adjusted and measured per the Motor Manual. The carb is not water cooled nor does the choke have a water connection like some 200 ford engines. All is well but of course the choke won't set with outside air temps that high. The odd thing is that five hours from now I can go home and the car will run fine. The difference is the car is parked in the garage out of direct sunlight. The garage is typically over 100* at 4:30 pm.

Any of you Ford 200 six owners experienced something like this?

The car has never exibited any vapor lock symptoms while driving but I'm wondering if maybe the fuel line is heating too much out in the sun even though the engine has cooled down. The ford six guys here know that the fuel line is routed well above the intake manifold and nowhere near the exhaust manifold although it's above the exhaust manifold by at least six - seven inches.

I'm really confused on this. I drove it down to the Fab Fords show in April (165 miles) with no problem at all. It was hot down there and it had a lot of idling time due to traffic leaving the show and it idled a bit rough in the stop and go but didn't stall. It seems that it has to sit for a few hours after running for this symptom to occur.

If you keep it off idle will it stay running? If so does it run smooth or rough?

Just to eliminate one source of your problem, I would connect the dizzy vacuum advance to manifold vacuum, and see if it makes any difference.

You could also have an electronic ignition problem. That's when things get spooky. How old are your coil and ignition module? If they're 27 years old, replacing them couldn't hurt (except in the wallet).

Fordconvert.

If I open the trottle to about 2,000 rpm I can keep it running. After about 4-5 minutes it's back to normal. During the high throttle period in runs rough and will attempt to stall.

BIGREDRASA,

All the ignition module and pickup are new (six months ago). The car doesn't act like this at all until the outside air temp gets about 80* or so.

I'll try the manifold vacuum port but doing that will eliminate part of the EGR emissions system which also in quite new.

Thanks,

Steve

Is the coil new too? Do you have any "known good parts" to swap out?
One thing I had a problem with was a defective coolant switch to the vacuum stuff. PVS switch.

I had a stalling problem on my Jeep that was similar to what you describe. One person suggested I replace my solenoid. His logic was that the solenoid was getting hot, and the circuit was not working as efficiently. Once it was all cooled down, it should start working again.

I replaced the solenoid. I also replaced the ignition system and the same time and went to the DUI setup. Problem went away but I don't know if it was ignition or solenoid.

EGR I forgot about the EGR.

There should not be any vacuum to the EGR at idle on start-up. The temperature sensing valve directs vacuum to the EGR only when the engine is warm. It should sit somewhere around the thermostat housing. It should have two nipples. One connects to the manifold, and the other to the EGR. If the valve is faulty, it will do strange things. In any case, you can test it by seeing if there is vacuum to the EGR side when cold, or when your are experiencing the idle problems. Disconnect the vacuum line to the EGR, and plug it. The worst that will happen will be increased pinging under load. If that solves the problem, replace the temperature sensing valve.

When idling OK, you can test the EGR by using a flat blade screw driver to push in on the pintle, the EGR rod, and see if it makes the idle rough. If it does, the EGR is OK. When idling rough, push in on the EGR pintle. If there is no change, replace the EGR valve. If you want to play it safe, replace both the temperature sensing valve and the EGR

8) dont forget that you have the catalytic converter sitting right under the carb, and you are likely suffering from heat soak. this will boil the fuel from the carb over time causing the fuel bowl to empty, and the engine to essentially flood. the fuel line also empties out and makes the engine hard to start and keep running at idle. had a similar, though not as bad, problem with my old fairmont wagon.

Sounds like a vacuum leak to me. I had the exact same problem. It would crank up fine but then stall and keep stalling till it warmed up. It turned out I had an internal vacuum leak inside my power break booster. Replaced it and now everything is fine and better than ever.

Wow. Several things I've never thought of. I've got some checking to do.

The EGR and power brake booster are interesting issues and will check those. Actually BIGREDRASA none of the emissions things should work at idle, except of course the cat. I had been through all the EGR stuff a few months ago and tested the ported vacuum switch that's water heated. It worked on a bench test but hey those on my car are 27 years old. :arg: I also never thought of the brake booster either. I did put a new check valve in it but the booster is original.

The solenoid is soooo out there as a possibility that I'll swap it! The least likely suspect is always guilty.

Today it's parked in the shade to see if it makes a difference. Today's outside temp is predicted to be 108.

I checked it after 2.5 hours. Stalling. I plugged the EGR that's not the problem. It sure acts like fuel starvation. When I stab the throttle to keep it running it gets a shot from the Accel pump and keeps going. I'll have to check the power valve and see what it's doing. I know if I pull and cap the vacuum line to the power valve it'll not run.

Hummm.

I'm totally befuddled but not unhappy.

Since I fixed the warning lights on the dash by replacing a blown fuse I haven't had any stalling problems at all. This is strange. I've driven the car two days this week with no problems.

Not that I don't pay any attention but those lights haven't worked for over two years. Since the battery light came on when they key was in the on possition with the engine off I just never noticed the other lights not working.

I'm not even going to wonder why the stalling problem is gone...I'm just going to accept it. Thanks for everyone's suggestions. I checked all those plus rechecked everything as well. :thanks:

I was going to suggest an exorcist, but I gues you got it done. Spooky!