E0 Mod Log Build

Starting a thread to show my next mod log build. My E0 head should be in in a couple days and I'm going to start milling/drilling.

I held off on building a set of headers for my current head because I knew they wouldn't work with this head I've been dreaming up.

Plan to date is to mill log off which will eliminate the original exhaust mounting surface.

Order of operation.
1.) mag particle test for cracks
2.) remove log and mill curbside of head flat. make integral flange(stainless steel) with mounting studs and fasten to head.
3.) port, unshroud oversized valves, polish chambers
4.) mag particle test again for good measure before I get too deep.
5.) make intake manifold(aluminum), work out synchronous carb linkage(if i go 2-2V route, outlined later)
6.) send out for finish machining to achieve proper CC of combustion chamber and have valves/seats finished.
7.) Install head in car and fabricate headers(stainless steel, this will be a FULL weekend job with materials/ equipment ready)

I'm on the fence as far as carburetion. Current thoughts are 2) .98 2100s with separate manifolds to the front bank and the rear bank of cylinders or a single manifold for a hollel 390cfm four barrel.

Thoughts?

Input throughout is always appreciated.

Stephen

Sounds great, also sounds rather ambitious, good luck!
Any way my thought is 2X two barrel for sure. I keep thinking of doing the 2X 2brl on a log. In any case keep us posted.

Thanks, eeyore. It's going to be a rather slow process but I think it will be worth it in the end.

My thought since you asked, buy an aluminum head from CI, with all you are going to do it will probably be a cheap route, but I appeciate your ambition, also so many talk of doing this with little fruition or gain, you are talking alot of time, patience, money and time.

95% of the work will be done myself. I'll have to send out the work for the valves and final machining for combustion chamber size but that's it.

I'm not going to argue Mike's price on his aluminum cylinder head because I think it's reasonable. But I also know, pending material prices as the project moves along, that I will be able to build the cylinder head, intake manifold, exhaust headers, and source carburetors for about half of the price of Mike's head and intake($900). My time is not included in this approximation. It can be argued that I won't get the same performance but that is not the ultimate goal.

If I had to have someone else do all of the work, this wouldn't be an option and I'd settle for a CI head.

Carburetion? Why not FI? Log style manifold with single throttle body and one injector in each runner. Otherwise, triple weber DCOE is the way to go.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Triumph- ... 500wt_1115

Leaning towards carburetion due to cost.

With the DCOEs, I run into the dilemma of spending nearly the same amount on 3 carburetors as I would for a MPFI system and blowing my cost comparison to the CI head out of the water. But then again, I would have to buy 3 carbs and make an intake for the CI head or buy the FI system too. Decisions, decisions...

The way I see it, stage 17 of this project could be another set of intake manifolds for DCOEs or MPFI. In fact, I think that two 2100s is enough of a challenge for me right now and I'll avoid the temptation to go full tilt on this build and stretch it out for 10 years.

The head came in Friday but work called and I spent my time today on their stuff instead of my own. I still need the yoke and mag. particle dispenser to come back into the shop so I can borrow it for a few hours to thoroughly examine the head. Only then will I void my 'crack-free' warranty and start making chips.

Some objectives that I've made for this build:
Do it for less than 1K installed, and running. Negating time, for sure. Gold metal would be under $800, but I'll settle for Bronze.
Intake manifold and exhaust manifold must be independent of one another for ease of assembly, dis-assembly, and manufacture.
Take my time.

Again, flat-out performance is not the ultimate goal.

Sounds like an interesting project.

Yeah, how's it going? Let's see some pics!

Funny story... me, the mag yoke, and Falcon are in Rochester, New York for work.
My head and accessible machining equipment are in Columbus.

Finally got to start on my E0 build.
Nothing Fantasmagical, yet...
Pictures, as requested, and will continue with pictures throughout the process.

After removing the valves. I took the head to my local car wash with wire brush in hand. $3 and a LOT of brushing later, it was finally clean enough to throw some mag. particle dust at it. I couldn't find any cracks on the boat anchor anywhere. I magd. near the exhaust valve guides several times because my C8 head was cracked from one of the siamesed exhaust valve guides to a pushrod hole. On my D7 and this E0, Ford has added some addl. meat around the exhaust valves, I'm guessing they caught on to the cracking issue.

E0 As Received, Grimey.


A little soapy water and a brush...



I've only mag. inspected one cylinder head before,(my old C8 head which my machinest said was cracked in 3 places and I found 3 cracks so what the hay) I'm used to mag. inspecting welds which is a lot easier because you have a finite area where the crack is going to be, not a massive oddly shaped part.


The bandsaw was playing games with my head this week and cutting crooked so I felt it would be 'safer' to do the log removal with a 6" cut-off wheel in a grinder. I'm going to have a lot of material to remove with the milling machine. Contemplating some more rough matl. removal with a flapper wheel.


I might get to work on it again next weekend, but the weekend after that I'll be in Chicago for the AWS Welding Show. Progress will be slowwww.

BTW, anyone have a lower intake manifold for a EFI 300 6 they were going to throw away? The wheels in my head are turning...

Getting that oddly shaped piece flat on the bed of the milling machine was a treat. I started out with .375" of shim under the VC side to 'try' to get it in plane with the bed so I wouldn't have to take too much material off. Well, .375" was a little much so I took it down to .315" of shim and it worked out pretty well.

E0 'Under the Knives'


nevermind the big feet, I couldn't get in range with the camera...


I bottomed out some 3/8" bolts in the holes that were going to still be present. I marred up the threads pretty good with linesman pliers and put some red loc-tite on them for good measure. I threw them in there in case I need to drill a hole where they used to be.


The plate that the manifolds bolt to will be next.

I'm getting cold feet on doing any port work to the actual runners. I have cross sections of a different year casting and the walls look extremely thin. I'm afraid my novice hands and eyes will ruin a lot of work all so quickly. I'm thinking a safer route would be just to smooth out the bowls and do the work on the combustion chambers(unshrouding, up-sizing the valves, and a semi-polish. OTOH, the valve guide bosses look like broke down cars in the center lane of the freeway. Everybody swerve!!

I've an account on speedtalk.com and I've been trying to find good threads on porting there along with google searches for basic porting tips. I've read the sticky in the Hardcore section here too, but still would like more info.

Anyone have any good links for porting info? or want to help? I'll post as many pics of the ports as possible but I'm pretty sure the lack of matl. is the downfall to reshaping them much.


Thanks,
Stephen

As far as porting, most of the benefit comes from working the bowls, especially the small-radius turn (bottom). You'll be pretty safe working that area. Also, as long as you are putting new valve guides in, you can safely go to town knife-edging the bosses.

Build shelved.


Got one of these.

Do you still have any plans for the log head you just milled off? I know someone who might be interested in it.

No plans right now, maybe down the road sometime.

PM me if they're interested. It sits in the same state that is shown in last pic. I also have another log head that I cut up in about a million pieces to get an inside view. Cross sectioned through centerline of ports and anywhere else I thought would help my cause. The cross-sectioned head was a cracked C8. It goes with the lot. Lot also includes E0 valves, stock springs, and retainers. I'm not sure if I have all of the collets(I think I dropped some and never found them when sweeping floor).

Stephen

What intake and cam do you have to go with the Crossflow head?

Head is bare, no portwork. 56cc chambers.

Crow cam- hydraulic, flat tappet.

Part Number 14650 Lobe Separation 113
Inlet Opens 34 B.T.D.C. Inlet Closes 78 A.B.D.C.
Exhaust Opens 80 B.B.D.C. Exhaust Closes 32 A.T.D.C.
Inlet Duration 230 at 0.050 292 Advertised
Exhaust Duration 230 at 0.050 292 Advertised
Valve Lift .522/.522


No intake as of now. Exploring building one. Same with valve cover and headers. Many moons before I put anything together.

Stephen

I've got one of the Crow Cams 14892, was afraid of getting anything more aggressive for a 200. Power range 1800-4800, 280* duration, 0.510" lift. Your head is one for a carbureted engine, no notches for the fuel injectors.

The crossflow engine has the starter mounted high, so the header pipe goes where the US250 has its starter.
Bayrunner has a set of headers for his 250 crossflow; he can have them made for a decent price. Shipping one from Australia would cost over $100, plus the purchase price.

Yep. Yep. What's the 14892 going to pull to in a 200?

Mine's meant for a 250ish down the road. I was considering going solid and bigger, as I only want to build this thing once and be satisfied with it...but, I decided to error on the mild side. If it comes down to it, I'll see if anyone stateside wants the 14650

Thanks for the tip on headers. I'm going to try to source everything stateside from this point forward due to shipping costs mentioned.

Before all, I need a chassis that will handle it.