Cyl. head side to side movement on 200

Just when I think I'm ready to wrap this project up, another question comes up - I guess I've forgotten a lot since the last time I had one of these apart 10 years ago. I dropped my head onto the block last night, and installed all of the head bolts finger tight just to check everything before torquing down. There is side to side movement - not sure if this is normal or not. It's not a lot, but don't remember seeing this before.

If this is normal, does it make a difference if you line it up straight towards the driver's or passenger side of the engine? We're talking something like 1/16 of an inch, probably less, but having it crooked cannot be good... You don't notice which side the head is "oriented" to when you're pulling the head off because of the gasket sticking; Last thing I need is an exhaust leak at the doughnut b/c the head is a hair off to the wrong side.

:help: :!:

Geeze :roll: I wasn't aware of that either. Maybe that is why the headgasket leaks coolant on the driver's side. Sorry don't have a direct answer for you but... I imagine there has to be "some" slop there or the bolts wouldn't pass through so easy.

Ron

Most engines have dowels in the deck surface to align the cylinder head. Did you have the block resurfaced, and the machine shop forget to replace them. They have to be removed to deck the block.Im guessing that this is what the problem is.

CNC-Dude":3hrc10xa said:

Most engines have dowels in the deck surface to align the cylinder head. Did you have the block resurfaced, and the machine shop forget to replace them. They have to be removed to deck the block.Im guessing that this is what the problem is.

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Good call!

No dowels on this or any other small six I've worked on, and no extra holes that I recall seeing. I've noticed the same problem on 2 out of 3 of my previous sixes, Ronbo - although it was oil seeping on one of them. I'm wondering if this can have an effect on valvetrain function as well...

Ok, I was thinking out loud. I know a 300 has a 5/8" or so dowel that fits into (2) counterbored head bolt holes in the block, and the head bolt goes thru them to locate these heads. So there wouldn't be any extra holes left over to make you realize something might be missing.

Ronbo - although it was oil seeping on one of them. I'm wondering if this can have an effect on valvetrain function as well...

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Yah, you got me thinking about it as well Shoot, each end of the push rod is rounded and that small a change in the angle couldn't do that much damage.....right? I don't wind my engines up that high, maybe 4.5K max, and they have quite a few miles on them. I think it's ok. Now if you were talking a 6K RPM plus engine, Houston might have a problem!

Ron

I just broke my thermostat housing - am I not meant to have this together for the last show of the year this weekend?

I had my head off this last March. The 200 six doesn't use dowels. You have to make your own from bolts or the like. Yes the head does move a bit. Just make sure it's centered and torque 'er down. I had no problems with mine. It seems everything straightens out during the bolt tightening process.

Get four dowls that exactly fit the holes +- .005 or so and put them in the four corners so they stick out above the head. Install the rest of the head bolts and lightly tighten them to no more then 5 ft/lb. Remove the dowls, install head bolts and torq as normal.

Thanks, guys; the dowels must be tapered though, right? The holes in the head are bigger than the threaded ones in the block.

I would chuck them in a lathe, turn down one end and thread them.

Typically, it has been suggested that one would cut the heads off some longish 7/16" bolts for the purpose.

I just put my head on this way and although I did notice the lateral movement of which you speak, it was very minimal. I just centered it by feel with my fingers and it seems to find it's own location. You just have to center it as best you can, and I'm sure it will be fine.

With regard to leaking, I used the newer spec bolt tightening sequence from my 1978 shop manual. In there they have the first bolt getting torqued as the one between cylinders 3 & 4 on the outside of the head, rather than the carb side.
I believe this well help seal up that side first, but the proof will be in the pudding when I get it running.

I just cut the heads off of 2 extra head bolts and used them for guides. I ground a slot in the top of each one so that I could use a straight screwdriver on them if I had to.

The only thing the guides are good for is to keep the head gasket aligned when you install the 80+ pound head.

There is a bit of side to side movement but it doesnt cause any problems IMO.

Later,

Doug

Yeah, my thoughts the same Doug, although I discovered at the last minute I'd lost one of my "guidepins" and had to use my trusty chilton's manual to rest the back end of the head on while I installed the front on the lone pin. I'll take your word on the latter comment since you've been down the strip more than a few times

Now to finding another water neck...

Sedanman":1pxp83od said:

Yeah, my thoughts the same Doug, although I discovered at the last minute I'd lost one of my "guidepins" and had to use my trusty chilton's manual to rest the back end of the head on while I installed the front on the lone pin. I'll take your word on the latter comment since you've been down the strip more than a few times

Now to finding another water neck...

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Thor,

That sucker is heavy when you lean out over the fender isnt it? I lost count on how many times I've had various heads on and off my car.

Good Luck on the waterneck!

Later,

Doug

Yeah, no kidding I always think I'll plan ahead and have a friend over for the job, but always end up doing it all by myself in the middle of the night! I've found the best method is to place it at an angle across the middle of the core support to the LF fender on top of an old pillow, and then climb up there (with hood off - another thing I'll need help replacing lol) and stand on the passenger side with left foot on the crossmember or center link, the other on the strut rod support, and swing it around in place. The swinging is the easy part - kept getting my alignment dowel in one of the water or oil holes instead of the front head bolt hole!