the 200 is torn down and ready for machining

mavereq

Well-known member
i was a little disappointed to find that the block had been bored .040 already but it shouldn't be a problem boring it out to .060. the crank has been turned .010 already but it's in good shape and is only getting a light polishing. i was surprised at how short those rods are. they almost qualify as "cute"....

now i just need to get the head in and this baby should be on the engine dyno in a few weeks.
 
8) before you send the block out to be bored, check the bore condition first. if it is with in spec as far as out of round and taper, you might be ale to get away with just installing new rings and save the money you would have otherwise spent.
 
Boring doesnt cost that much does it? Theres a shop here that will bore a V-8 for 130$. But yet when i wanna get a single cylinder bored for a fourwheeler or something its 80$ :|
 
Well the boring might not be expensive, but does that include honing as well? If the cylinders are good and not out-of-round or worn too much, you can get by with just a hone. But usually it will be #5 that is more worn than the others.

Any other specifics about whats going into your build like compression ratio, etc?
 
Mavereq:

You're right! The rods are really short at only 4.715" center-to-center. But the block deck is pretty short as well at 7.808" tall (typical) so even with the short stroke, you pretty much need a short rod to to make everything fit. But even with all that "shortness", you still have a rod:stroke ratio of something like 1.51 to 1 - not great but not bad. And that's just about the same as the bigger 250 ci.

Russ
 
i'm getting it bored regardless. i'd just as soon know that i'm good there.

i should end up at just under 10:1 compression. i'm putting a 274/264 cam, 1.5:1 adjustable rockers, a ci aluminum head, clifford headers, and a holley 390 on it.

i will have dyno results once the head gets in and i can finish assembly. i'm pretty excited that there's an engine dyno available.
 
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