head gasket

I assume you mean Fel-Pro not feldpro. If you did get Feldpro thats probably why. Reminds me of the Cheers where Norm takes the guys to the Hungry Heffer, where they serve grade A bef, and fresh Lubester.

I have never heard anyone say they had any issues with Fel Pro head gaskets on stock applications. I have installed several myself and never had one fail when I did the job properly. I have had them fail when I did not get the head surfaced after a failure, when I did not bother to make sure my head bolts were not too long after machining the head, when I did not bother to do my research and find out I had to replace the head bolts if they were removed, when I thought I did not need a torque wrench, and when I thought a $20 for a new torque wrench was going to get me a quality tool.

Tell us more about why you think they are junk?
 
I for one love Lubester! What a great show that was.

Anyways, I have had no problems with Fel-Pro on my non-stock application. I wouldn't use it for a force induction modified 200, but no problems on my end (so long as I install them correctly).
 
8) i have used felpro gaskets for years with no problems, even in race applications notably an A/FA, and another race team i worked with used them in a BB/FA(supercharged running alcohol only as a fuel).
 
So the next question is...

Was the head milled any or surfaced?

The bolt holes for the 200 inline six are close to bottoming out on a stock motor.

A common problem found is that if the head has been surfaced then the heads bottom out in the holes and give a false torque reading.

What most people have to do is pull head, clean thoroughly, reinstall head and use hardened washers under the head bolts to prevent bolts from bottoming out.

Another option is to run ARP head studs.
 
In one of his other posts he was talking about a set of Arp studs and that lead to a discussion about torque methods. I did not see much else about his build though.
 
Had better luck with Victor #3910VC. They can be purchased at carquest.
A little thinner than felpro & seem to seal better on the left side of the engine where it weeps running down the block.
 
i rebuilt my motor 4000 miles ago the head and block been cut ARP stud kit modifed head with a holley 350 cfm i did the bottom end cam flat top pistons dui the whole deal i have those little water streaks going down the left side of the block i pulled the head replaced the head gasket ran it did a couple retorks (a little tighter this time) and its doing it agian the water is not in the oil or anything just looks kinda crappy ill try the victor head gasket and mabe some sealer around the water jacket holes?
 
Give Mike a call at Classic Inlines. I recently used one his gaskets. No leaks.

Mike
 
Anlushac11":d34og36c said:
The bolt holes for the 200 inline six are close to bottoming out on a stock motor.

A common problem found is that if the head has been surfaced then the heads bottom out in the holes and give a false torque reading.

When I measured mine I found this to be not true. I had mine milled .050 and there was still plenty of clearance in the bolt holes. I think this is a myth, but if anyone has any first hand experience with a bottomed-out bolt I can certainly stand to be corrected.
When a bolt bottoms out it will just stop turning, and there would be clearance under the bolt head into which one could probably insert a feeler guage.
 
Did you know that Ford changed the bolt tightening sequence sometime in the late seventies?
I have noticed that the older manuals have the tightening starting on the passenger side by the carb, whereas the '78 factory manual I have has the tightening sequence start at the center bolt on the driver side.
Why the change? I could speculate it might be to address the weeping driver side issue, but I won't. :rolflmao:
 
JackFish":1w8p3197 said:
Anlushac11":1w8p3197 said:
The bolt holes for the 200 inline six are close to bottoming out on a stock motor.

A common problem found is that if the head has been surfaced then the heads bottom out in the holes and give a false torque reading.

When I measured mine I found this to be not true. I had mine milled .050 and there was still plenty of clearance in the bolt holes. I think this is a myth, but if anyone has any first hand experience with a bottomed-out bolt I can certainly stand to be corrected.
When a bolt bottoms out it will just stop turning, and there would be clearance under the bolt head into which one could probably insert a feeler guage.
when i installed my milled head i dropped by the hardware store and grabbed some washers.it was easier than checking each bolt to make sure it wasn't bottoming out.
 
I agree. $5 worth of washers is cheaper than replacing a head gasket since you can only torque it once. Plus washers are a nice way to even the head load out.
 
no problems here with a felpro gasket on my turbo six, had many lean backfires and lots on pinging in my learning experience. I also used the arp head studs offered by Mike.
 
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