RyanCorpse":3au68kc2 said:
I also opened the air valve wide open.
Okay, I probably should have suggested this with more caution. Depending on ambient temperatures, wear on engine, having the choke 'fixed' open cannot only make for more 'harder' starts, but dang near impossible to start w/o choking (ie sufficiently cold temps and worn rings).
So let's backup a little...you double checked the float setting
RyanCorpse":3au68kc2 said:
I think it was 1 16/32...which means 1 1/2 inch, right? err....right?
I think that may be a bit too low...1 3/32" is what they show here (which is a little less than 1 1/8"...fomoco shop manual says 1.090" which is about the same):
http://www.oldcarmanualproject.com/manu ... ntData.jpg
Too low of a float setting and the fuel won't fill the bowl high enough to reach the main jet properly.
Be sure NOT to try to bend the tang on the float while it is in place with needle-valve attached...this can damage the needle-valve...better to take the float in/out and make adjustments to the tang. After you've got the float set to the correct height, make sure the bowl is clean of debris as well as the seat for the needle valve, then reassemble.
This diagram may be helpful to make sure all the ball check's are in place that are key to proper operation of the 1100.
http://www.oldcarmanualproject.com/manu ... odelF1.jpg
Now's as good a time as any to make the preliminary idle mixture adjustment (see screw 49 in diagram above). You want to turn this screw clockwise until it lightly seats (don't over tighten or you'll damage the idle air bleed channel/orifice). After lightly seating, back it out about 1.5 turns to start.
Now proceed with these two adjustments:
1. Fast Idle Adjustment (Automatic Choke)
2. Choke Valve Pull-Down Adjustment
This should get you in the ballpark to get it started, but stop and adjust the choke/butterfly back to where it is almost closed and make sure the throttle plate (bottom of carb) is also closed before doing this (ie fast idle cam & screw not engaged)...I'd leave the three screws loose that hold the auto choke spring housing to the carb...see below (you want to do this on a cold/room temp carb or cooler...not one that's been sitting in the hot sun).
If you can get her started, you may need/want to adjust the idle mix screw mentioned above by turning it out slowly, then in slowly, then back out till you get the most steady idle. You may also need to adjust the rpm or curb idle screw just above the fast idle screw on the throttle arm (let us know if you have difficulty identifying the three screws that require adjustment).
Once you get it running and as it starts to warm up, you can manually adjust the auto choke spring housing to open the choke/butterfly until it is fully open...this will allow you to make the idle mix & rpm/curb idle adjustments above at normal operating temps.
Lastly...it's time to fix the auto choke or you could convert to manual as suggested. But again, cold enough temps on a moderately worn engine can still be very tough to start, excessive choking can hurt mileage, etc. etc. You might be able to get away w/o running a properly operating chokes in some strictly warmer climates...but it's bound to be inconvenient.
Hope this helps!
