DURASPARK WIRING - This look right to you?

So i'm currently wiring up my duraspark distributor along with the module.

Here's what I'm about to do.

http://bayimg.com/image/bambpaacb.jpg

Does this look right to anyone?


Here's what I've done so far:

I've removed the instrument cluster and found the pink wire immediately. It has it's own CLOTHLIKE wiring protector. It definetely said "DO NOT SPLICE" about halfway down behind the instrument cluster but I had to break through the cloth guard wrap to see it. . I noticed it was connected to a RED-GREEN wire via BULLET connecter right at the IGNITION SWITCH. The RED-GREEN wire was really short. I disconnected it.

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Nooooowwww, instead of cutting and splicing wires under my dash, I was wondering if I'd be able to get some 14 guage wire and just attach a bullet connector to the RED-GREEN and feed the wire through my firewall.

I found a screw I could remove right around where my steering column goes through to the firewall. Fed the wire through there.

So once I feed that wire through, I'll strip 1" off the end of the original RED-GREEN wire from the IGNITION COIL where it connects to the original plug, and do the same to the BROWN wire from the "I" part of the solenoid...and splice them into the new wire I just connected to the RED-GREEN from the IGNITION SWITCH...


So summarized:

How's that?

You have to cut it and splice it about half way in between the switch and the connector, the resistor is somewhere in there.

So you want to basically run a new wire from the key to the coil and leave the old one in place? That will work fine if thats what you want to do. The power goes the path of least resistance so it will follow your new wire like it was the only wire.

Perfect =]

that way, if I get stranded and I have to use points, I'll still have my pink wire intact.

fordconvert":1lpc9p4g said:

So you want to basically run a new wire from the key to the coil and leave the old one in place? That will work fine if thats what you want to do. The power goes the path of least resistance so it will follow your new wire like it was the only wire.

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Yup. And the resistance of the two wires in parallel will be slightly LOWER than either wire by itself. This is good.
Joe

I hooked up my voltmeter to it and had the key on RUN. I had one end connected to the "+" wire for the IGNITION COIL and the other end on the "-" terminal of the battery. I was getting 11.70 volts.

It's not 12v flat like it is when I have it connected right on the + and - of the battery terminals...so is this alright?


Also, since the previous owner hacked up some wires with the radio, I needed a constant wire for battery so I decided to use the Cigarrete Lighter port for the BATTERY wire and the original IGNITION wire for the radio. Is using the CIGARRETTE LIGHTER PORT safe for the BATTERY wire on the radio?

Should be fine. Wire it up and start it up!

RyanCorpse":3f8cz861 said:

I hooked up my voltmeter to it and had the key on RUN. I had one end connected to the "+" wire for the IGNITION COIL and the other end on the "-" terminal of the battery. I was getting 11.70 volts....

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There will always be some voltage drop through those wires, more so if they are original.

I believe that the ignition circuit and the cigar lighter circuit are NOT fused in the original harness; take appropriate measures when using these for accessories and you should be fine.
Joe

This is weird...

So I have got everything wired up and ready to go...

When I try to turn the engine on, I heard this small pop and hiss sound with a funky smell. I touched the gold dyna resistor module and it was too hot to touch.

Couldn't get it to run.

You're still off, timing wise.

Give it a day or so rest, I'll make it up north and help you out.

We'll get it, no problem.

JAWSOME.

Mike got my car up and running today.

You guys rule. See you on L4D2.

Saturday!

Words can not describe how much Win that picture is.
Kudos on the 'stang!

cool, congrats! mercurymike to the rescue! does that mean you are coming to dennis' on saturday?

RyanCorpse":11g0ml6a said:

JAWSOME.

Mike got my car up and running today.

You guys rule. See you on L4D2.

Saturday!

Click to expand...

He'll be there, in one of the baddest cars I've seen in awhile. Let me tell you guys, this thing is CLEAN!

A little bit of wiring, some timing, some carb adjustment, and a little tutoring session about green dot trannies, that thing screams UPHILL!

Enjoy that thing man.

L4D2!

Nice, can't wait to see it...I wish my car was clean

What exactly does L4D2 mean?

Michael

Mercury Mike":3fzbs2f9 said:

He'll be there, in one of the baddest cars I've seen in awhile. Let me tell you guys, this thing is CLEAN!

A little bit of wiring, some timing, some carb adjustment, and a little tutoring session about green dot trannies, that thing screams UPHILL!

Enjoy that thing man.

L4D2!

Click to expand...

Left 4 Dead 2, it's a video game about being one of the last few survivors in a zombie apocalypse. It's a really cool team work game that takes a lot of strategy, and you can play it online against people from all over the world.

The issue of this topic is resolved, so I don't feel bad about talking about video games:

I added you to Steam, I assume you use the same screen name. I also play much Left 4 Dead 2.

Awwww... we play 360.

Aww, you fail.

I bought L4D2 for the 360 and man that game sucks compared to part 1. And speaking of the L4D games, my town actually had back to back L4D1 and L4D2 billboards. Pretty huge ones in a place where it would be hard to miss.