Weber Progressive

lorwood

Well-known member
So I plan on going with the weber progressive on my 66 Mustang 200. Mike at CI is modifying the head. My question is what choke option do I have to go with? As the old 1100 used manifold vacuum for the auto choke and the options on the weber are manual/electric/hot water I just don't know. If electric is the option I must use where do I get the juice from? Alternator? Solenoid? Thanks Guys!
 
Yes, the stator terminal on the alternator is the usual source for the choke power.
The choke on my 5200 is electric, and has a vacuum port as well. Haven't installed it though, I've got some "engineering" issues to work out.
 
What's the environment it will drive in?.. , Don't sweat it, I run H/W 5200 version with water choke removed with only mild cold start babying. No problem starting in cold weather but don't drive it during salt paste on roads season in Hudson Valley. Electric conversions @ $25, power from any current capacity
source.

Great carb for modern conditions, good consistent idle , smooth midrange cruise and "open the secondary" feel at WOT.

Have Fun

Powerband
 
powerband":1hlhoshg said:
What's the environment it will drive in?.. , Don't sweat it, I run H/W 5200 version with water choke removed with only mild cold start babying. No problem starting in cold weather but don't drive it during salt paste on roads season in Hudson Valley. Electric conversions @ $25, power from any current capacity
source.

Great carb for modern conditions, good consistent idle , smooth midrange cruise and "open the secondary" feel at WOT.

Have Fun

Powerband
Driving conditions are the summer fall months on Long Island/ Sunday Cruiser never in rain (Dam cowl leak!) So my only option is to go with the electric choke? What should I do with the Exhaust manifold vac currently used on the 1100? Good idle sounds like music to my ears. So sick of fooling with that lousy 1100. Wife won't even get in the car "It always sounds like its going to stall" She says! Thanks.
 
JackFish":3b9rwzoc said:
Yes, the stator terminal on the alternator is the usual source for the choke power.
The choke on my 5200 is electric, and has a vacuum port as well. Haven't installed it though, I've got some "engineering" issues to work out.
Engineering issues LOL I have had quite a few of those :banghead: Some have lead to "THE FINAL SOLUTION" A Hammer! lol
 
With Weber,

First option for fair-weather driving is skip the choke, don't let the choke setup slow you down, get the car running good on the road, then simply add electric, manual or hot tube choke. The choke tube shouldn't be open to exhaust vacuum or pressure, just rising hot air. just disconnect or cap if needed.


Have Fun

PS - Say hi to the L.I.E. for me 8) .
 
I put an electric choke on my Weber. I have had some issues with it openning too quickly. I installed some resistors in line to help slow down the openning of the choke/ increase the time it takes to open.
I have wondered if a choke operated on the coolant would be a better option. My old '65 Lincoln had and AFB carb that had a choke housing connected to the heater hose, and I think I have one laying around. I may have to see if the coolant type choke housing can be adapted to the Weber.
Doug
 
So my only option is to go with the electric choke?
No just use what ever is your preference. The electric type works very well, but it would also be very easy to use a manual type choke by adding a cable under dash.

What should I do with the Exhaust manifold vac currently used on the 1100?

Hole in manifold is not a vacuum source, it’s exhaust pressure so would not hurt to leave it open (little noise) or you can get a tapered plug and drive into the hole.
 
Thanks guys. Best site on the INTERNET! Can't wait to get the head back from Mike! First time swapping out a cylinder head so definitely a little nervous. Excited about the end result and having something a little different.
"Six in a row makes her GO!"
 
Having used webers on several 4 bangers over the years, water choke is way to go in my opinion. They work quite well. I dont mind manual choke, but in my senile years will occasionally forget to push it in when car warms up.

On webers you have choice of electric choke, water choke, manual choke, or no choke. Hot air chokes werent an option, you need the tiny vacuum passage in the carb that sucks in the hot air through tube from manifold. Though guess you could use one of those old remote mount Mopar type chokes where buisiness end mounted down in little hot pocket on the manifold and a rod stuck up to operate the choke butterfly on the carb.
 
i just used the pink wire from the key mine works great. and the problem with the choke opening to fast, adjust the coil tension by loosening the three screws rotationg the black cap to get desired duration
 
In my case rotating the choke adjustment was making it choke the car at temps that it did not need to choke the car and the car was a bit harder to start. The fast openning time is not usually a problem except on those days where it was moist and cool and the engine had not warmed up sufficiently. I suspect carburetor icing could be an issue.

As far as the best operating choke that I have had, I would agree that the water choke worked best. The exhaust type chokes tend to get hot, rusty and sticky.
Doug
 
I have a manual choke on mine sice the car was pre-equiped with a choke cable. I did put an electric choke 32/36DGV on a Triumph years ago and I did not like the fact that the choke would be activated whenever the engine sat for more than a few minutes - even on a hot restart where it clearly did not need the choke. Mind you after a few minutes the electricity heated up the bi-metal spring and the choke plate opened back up. So if I did not have a cable and I did not mind the extra hose routing, I would consider a water choke.
 
I have an electric choke on my truck and it works great. The thing to watch out for with the newer Webers though is the quality of the rods they use in their linkages has slipped. Mine had a rod that went from the throttle linkage to the fast idle that broke. It was also held in place by tabs that were poorly stamped and would come loose.

I am working to fix this using a proper rod from another carb that secures with cotter pins, and bending it to the shape I need.I have it bent right, I just need to pick up some pins after work today.
 
I have the 34 for my center carb with the manual choke and it works just fine. it's retro,simple, and always works!
 
I am having an issue with my holley weber progressive.

I had the car running decently, but last weekend I decided to tinker with the carb a bit. In the end, I have caused a problem.

I decided to attempt to adjust the two screws on either side of barrels at the recommendation of stovebolt due to the potential for the secondary being partially open and drawing fuel at idle.

Now, I may have misunderstood him, but essentially all I did was turn the screw out, wound up being a couple of turns. It was idling really nice, then I put it gear and shuddering, shaking terrible idle like a tractor or like it was missing was result. Nothing I do now has any effect to remedy this situation. What have I done?

I started over, set everything back to where it was on the carb, but I got the same result.

The other thing I found was the transmission vac line had separated from the metal tube that goes to the manifold. I reattached it, still getting the same result.

Thanks in advance for helping this rookie out.
 
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