Installing Headers ???

blsstang

blsstang

New member
I am purchasing headers for my Mustang 200 6cyl (probably Clifford). Does the install require removal of the head? What are the complications I can anticipate? Thanks.
 
The exhaust headers are independent of the intake manifold. You might snap a bolt off. Or more. If you get it from Clifford, you will probably get the port divider too. Whether it does what they say it does is an open question. Mostly it fills a big hole. Do a 'search: port divider' to get a variety of answers on this issue. It can be welded, brazed or hi-temp epoxied in place. Use a big fat gasket. Use the heavy bodied orange gasket seal. Use Loc-Tite on the bolts. You'll need to have an exhaust pipe adaptor made to get from the 3" collector it comes with to a 2" or 1.75" stock exhaust. Find a muffler shop that has a "pipe expander" to make this transition piece. It will not be expensive.
 
Does the install require removal of the head? What are the complications I can anticipate?
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No, it should be fairly easy after the manifold is off and must easier than doing a set of for a V8. Complication is the welding the collector extendtion's to the existing pipes and or the replacement of the old exhaust with a better system.
 
If you are installing long tube headers just make sure to jack the car as high off the ground as you can as you will be installing the headers from underneath. You may also have to unbolt the tie rod from the frame and swing it out of the way. Good luck! :D
 
Well, duh. I just wanted to get him hooked so he wouldn't leave the empire. And after all the time drilling out those rusted bolts, he "can't quit now; got too much time in it."
 
Had engine rebuilt with new exhaust manifold installed about a year and a half ago. Removing the bolts shouldn't be a problem? Also, port divider is aready installed. Did that during the rebuild.
 
Thanks for the advice. I'm going for the Clifford headers, dual exhaust, stainless pipes 2 1/4" into a 3" Thrush glasspacks then 3" out. Found a custom exhaust shop that has done one like this before on a 66 200 CI. Sounds like a V8 when done. Thanks again and enjoy your cars. :D

P.S. Great Classic Car show tomorrow, Sunday, July 18th in Appleton , Wi from 8-4 at Pierce Park. Swap meet, Car Coral, etc. I'll be there!
 
1 7/8" to 2" is the optimum size for a dual exhaust system on a engine of this size.I went 2" on mine. check out this sizeing chart from magnaflow. http://www.magnaflow.com/07techtips/faq/question10.asp. also unless clifford has changed their header patterns they fit tight to the starter on the #6 tube. their solution is to use the earley 144 cube 4" starter which is hard to find. here is a clip of the 200 in my Falcon. the sound on the vid not very good it's close but deeper. it gets mistaken for a V8 90 percent of the time.http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ucUj93UySTQ
 
I'm going for the Clifford headers, dual exhaust, stainless pipes 2 1/4" into a 3" Thrush glasspacks then 3" out. Found a custom exhaust shop that has done one like this before on a 66 200 CI. Sounds like a V8 when done.
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Since your going with the stainless pipes! Have you checked out Classic Inlines Stainless Headers very nice (y) and than the headers would last as long as the pipes! :nod:

http://www.classicinlines.com/products.asp?cat=53
 
OK, you've given me a lot to think about....................... I like the Classic In Line headers and sounds like the 3" pipes would be to big. I'm definitely rethinking this.
 
blsstang":1ktudcs3 said:
I am purchasing headers for my Mustang 200 6cyl (probably Clifford). Does the install require removal of the head? What are the complications I can anticipate? Thanks.
Click to expand...


Head should not be removed, you may have a little steering interference., Installing in Falcon engine bays usually requires removing alternator/generator, maybe brackets as well as starter and carb(s). Sometimes tricky getting headers in there but well worth the effort. Port divider can be ground for interference fit if needed.

Have Fun


ENGINEWITHHEADERSNICEPIC_WEB.jpg


Stainless band clamps help installation after roughing out' . This is dual out Hookers' with simple stock mig'd bends with flex pipe and Smithy' muffs :

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I just dorked around with the Clifford (single out only) on my '65. I found that to access the back-bottom bolt with any ease requires the starter to be removed. And if you are patient enough and double jointed you can do the front lower bolt with out moving the alternator out of the way. These bolts are easy to remove on the stock mani but with the tubes from the header then you have to remove the starter and alt to get at those lower bolts.

Its a relatively straight forward job.

And when I got my Cliffy header it came with this cheap, white, brittle collector gasket. It lasted about 2 years before it gave out. Go to any regular parts store and buy a good quality header gasket. They should all be standard sizes.
 
Also "header bolts" available for typical SBC/SBF application with small (3/8?) heads make those fun-to-access bolts a little easier...



Have Fun
 
Use a stock gasket, one time no retorque, stock gasket won't burn out or get loose like the one from clifford, I use Oem gaskets for header collectors also, most header and collector gaskets in aftermarket are junk, if you need a # I can supply it. I never use the gaskets supplied with headers and never have problems, going on 6th 6 rebuild.
 
For collectors I use dead-soft aluminum gaskets. I've never had a leak - ever. If your collectors are already bent though they will need to be replaced or straightened...

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These are available in 2 1/2, 3, & 3 1/2 from Percy's high performance and most chain auto parts store's carry them as well.
 
For the headers on my 79 Mustang (admittedly a 4 banger) I used cap bolts instead of hex head bolts and/or studs and nuts. More space for allen wrenches and less of a fight over all. I agree about the header gaskets - the more expensive copper or aluminum vs the junk the headers come with.
 
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