Need Fresh Idea's! Fixed!

if the balancer is slipped, you have to remark TDC on the balancer in order to time it correctly

Explorer":84anggvm said:

Not saying that it isn't, but don't really see how that would effect my problem with the choke. To add to the mix even further, checked manifold vacuum and pulling 17 hg. That's all my new engine pulls. I'm leaning toward something FUBAR with the carb. I put a rebuild kit in it and cleaned everything. New SCV etc, only thing I didn't pull was the power valve which the instructions didn't cover. It's running exactly the same as before I rebuilt it.

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My car will run at 2 degrees with no vacuum, so if yours won't idle with less than 12 perhaps there is an issue with the distributor or timing.

Ok, eliminated the slipped balancer theory, timing marks are dead on. Who's next? Hot as crap in the garage and out of suggestions again, so took the Bronco for a spin. I love my six. This Mustang will not beat me! Wish I had another carb to try.

Explorer, I am curious as to whether this is the stock Autolite Carb for your 66'? If this Autolite Carb is from a 63' Falcon, Fairlane, Mustang, etc., it is quite possible that you do not have the fuel mixture screw turned out enough turns. I noticed you said that you have your fuel mixture screw turned out 1 and 1/2 turns out, which probably is the correct starting point for 90% of the carburetors in our class/year(s), but I encountered the same problems you are having when I installed a new (to me) 1963 Fairlane carburetor. And just like you, 'if' I did not have the manual choke half way closed, and the idle rpms up higher than they should have been, my engine would die! What I found out was that the carb I had purchased was off of a 63' Fairlane and when I checked my Motor Manual the book said that the fuel mixture screw for the 63's (for both manual and auto transmissions) should be turned out "3 to 4 turns"! Once I made that adjustment everything worked fine, and I have not had a problem since. Try turning your 'fuel' mixture screw out 3 to 4 turns to begin with, and with your 'idle' mixture screw disengaged/turned all the way out, or at least almost all the way out, see if this helps. Good Luck! James

Only one adjusting screw on this carb, Just to right and below distributor vacuum tube. I have messed with it a bit, but will just get it started in enough to hold and try it in the morning. I did try it all the way in, but no effect. Thanks for one more thing to try.

just to make sure what you have, could you post a pic of it, or the casting numbers? it might help someone recognize what you have

Explorer":1vcv4l1w said:

....
Points only replaced with petronics dizzy module by PO....... I bought this project not running......

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I too suspect the carb, but just in case it ISN'T, I would try sticking a set of breaker points back in there. This is relatively cheap to try and makes it very easy to check static timing. Also try a different coil if you have one handy. Stranger things have happened.
Joe

Late start this morning. Pulled valve cover and checked valve train, everything seems fine there. Tried the idle mix screw, no effect any position. Carb is evidently aftermarket. I can try a set of points and coil. I've got a whole DSII system saved for it, but won't work with this carb. Here are the pic's of carb. No casting numbers. Maybe you'll recognize.

why won't it work?
it's the same carb i had on Susie before the head gasket blew, i had a DSII setup on her...

not that i think the issue is ignition related

Remember I have to go by what I read on this one. It's a SCV carb, Load-a-Matic distributor that uses manifold vacuum. I would be getting the wrong vac signal from the carb. I know some people use full manifold vac on a DSII, but I've never had any luck with that. A 68 carb, non-SCV would be fine I believe. One thing that kept bothering me was when I was rebuilding the carb it said do not remove power valve. So I sprayed it out as much as possible. Just came back from talking to my engine builder and that was the first thing he said, "sounds like the power valve". I'm taking it to him in the morning and we'll see what happens. By the way, it is a Ford carb, just no casting numbers on it.

Check near the mounting bolt holes on edge 90 degrees from the base some carbs will have a stamped in number there. Have you checked the float to see if it’s heavy?

Nope, no stamping other than some dots in a circle I wouldn't know how to decipher anyway. Float is fine.

edit: I know that you know this, but i'm posting everything I know for future ppl too. sorry if I sound cocky.

little ID on the carb, It looks to be an autolite 1100, with manual choke of course, here's a pic of the pony 1100 which has an automatic choke

you should have 3 total screws, 1 cold idle screw, 2 idle screw, 3 gas/air idle screw.
here is where I think they are on your carb from the picture you posted. try adjusting them and see the changes.



A LOM distributor only uses SCV, and will not work with manifold vacum.

I still have this exact setup, 1100 carb and LOM distributor... here is what I would do without a timing light.

1) make sure the vacum can on the LOM is working, BLOW don't suck unless you want alot of fumes, and see if the engine rpm changes, if yes then it's good, if not you need a new one (i've found napa has them readily availible) If it can't hold air it's popped.

2) with vacum disconnected from distributor can, set idle to pull 19.5-20 FROM the manifold, not the carb scv, this was the BEST on my old stock engine (recently replaced)

3) raise idle SCREW to ~850rpm, THEN change idle gas/air ratio screw to run the HIGHEST rpm you can get.

4) lower idle SCREW to achive no less than 600rpm at idle.

With a timing light it makes it easier to change the timing in smaller increments. I recemend to start at 7* then move up to no more than 14*, it's critical that everything works. All engines can rev with bad timing at tidle without pinging, it's only pings when it's under load, and SCV sees more vacum when there is LESS manifold vacum. you're really close with 17 you want 19.5 to 20 on completely stock engine.

Just make sure the vacum lines are SCV to Distributor, and the can is good, IF you ping back off the timing 1* til it stops pinging, try going up a hill to see if it will ping.

Hope this helps, Good Luck!!!

Richard

oh yeah, sory for such a long post... I get carried away sometimes...

one last thing... check the distributor cap, the points underneith might be dmg'd....

one way to check for vacuum leaks is to cover the top of the carb with your hand if it still runs even cutting the air off it has a leak. Just imagine choking your car to death..... :rolflmao: if it doesnt die its breathing from somwhere.

MPG: #1 and #2 work, thats how I have it running at all. #3 has no effect. New cap and rotor I had laying around. I have another LOM dizzy from my Bronco build, and will check the the other stuff. I'll see what my builder finds on the power valve. Thanks for the info, that will help greatly. I did figure out the fourth adjustment, anti-stall adjustment, that one does work, adjusted it and it steadied things out a bit.
cstty1986: It'll try to suck your hand in the carb and kill engine instantly.
Thanks guy's, it has ticked me off and will run properly before I tear it all off and rework head this winter. Went to check compression and O ring is broke on my gauge, I'll try to find one of those tomorrow too.

Explorer":3gmv1lwz said:

....... It's a SCV carb, Load-a-Matic distributor that uses manifold vacuum.......

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NO! NO! NO!
The LOM distributor does NOT use manifold vacuum, it uses Spark Control Vacuum (SCV) from the little gadget mounted on the carburetor. If you have it hooked to manifold vacuum it will definitely give you fits.

Explorer":3gmv1lwz said:

..... "sounds like the power valve".....

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I'm curious as to how the power valve can cause the thing to run "apparently" lean (requiring heavy choke to keep running).

Poor wording on my part. Yes, Spark Control Valve adjusts signal to distributor. I'm just used to ported vacuum. We'll see about the power valve.

Fixed! It was the power valve sticking. He just tweaked it a bit where it moves freely up and down., sprayed it out with cleaner again. Must have still had some varnish buildup inside it. Whatever, it worked. Idle is down to wherever I want it and idling perfect, with the choke open for a change. Here is a link to the part for those who have not seen it. #23 marked do not remove in the rebuild instructions.
http://www.tocmp.com/manuals/Carbs/Ford ... odelF1.jpg

glad you got it fixed!

as a recommendation for the the future, whenever you rebuild a carb, i'd recommend getting one of those 1 gallon cans of carb cleaner with a little basket inside it
i always just pull the carb apart and remove all non-metal parts then let it soak for a week at least
you pull it out and it's as clean as the day it came from the factory

now, what's the next thing you gotta do?