Did I wreck my fuel pump, or do something worse?

I was driving my Falcon on the freeway, and downshifted into second gear at about 65 mph. A horrible clatter immediately ensued.

My first thought was valvetrain, but everything looks shipshape up top. Careful listening and even-more-careful touching, let me to discover that the clatter can be felt quite distinctly in my fuel pump.

Think I wiped out the spring? Or did I toast a bearing or something, and I’m just feeling it through the fuel pump?

The engine (‘68 170 with a ‘70 head) doesn’t seem to be running any worse, but the clatter is so bad it’s embarrassing. I’m supposed to pay a visit to the local Falcon Six guru sometime soon, but I don’t know when that will be, and thought I’d ask for help here, first.

Thanks,

Dave

Take the fuel pump off and see if its messed up. If it looks fine start it up with the pump off. It should run at least 30 seconds without it and I would not think you would get that much oil out of the hole.

Is this solid lifters?

What transmission do you have?

Take the fuel pump off and see if its messed up. If it looks fine start it up with the pump off. It should run at least 30 seconds without it and I would not think you would get that much oil out of the hole.

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I was wondering how much oil I could expect if I removed it. I have several spare fuel pumps I think might fit, so I can try swapping them too.

Is this solid lifters?

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I’m not sure. I didn’t think so, but I’m honestly not sure how to tell.

What transmission do you have?

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Original-style (2.77) 3-speed manual.

-Dave

Hi David, you should only get a modest trickle of oil - as the fuel pump is driven from the shamcalf, it's a good way above the oil level in your pan.

I'd suggest making the gasket sealing area good and clean when refitting, also using something like cam lube or moly grease on the contact point of your new pump's arm.

Personally I'd take a "belt and braces" approach with the install, using gasket sealant sprayed onto the gasket and also weak Loctite on the bolts (after cleaning thread holes with carb cleaner). Correct torquing isn't much - it's a smallish coarse thread in cast iron - but you will be fighting the pump lobe of your cam, so expect a little resistance.

Cheers, Adam.