67coupe200
Active member
the harness from the solenoid to the alternator has a ground wire to the block. that's where it was when i got the car and if i remember correctly my 72 maverick was the same way but im not positive
arc on balancer
- Thread starter 67coupe200
- Start date
On the right hand side (page) of the 1967 wiring diagram I linked, it shows that the only ground from the battery is to the block. The alternator has a ground to the frame or block. The starter relay [aka: solenoid] shows no direct ground at all. The starter has a direct ground, which would be the wire to the firewall. The voltage regulator has a direct ground to the radiator support.
I think what 67coupe200 is seeing is wire #26 You can see it in the 66 diagram above or in this version of the '67
http://www.allfordmustangs.com/forums/a ... ignit1.jpg
(which is almost the same as the 66)
Wire #26 in either diagram is the shared ground from alternator to the block that then drops into the "alternator wiring harness" momentarily and drops out of the harness (right after a plug connetion) to run over to the voltage regulator for ground...but wire #26 makes no connection at the starter relay/solenoid
The only ground for the relay/solenoid is the mounting bracket itself...when the mechanical plunger action of the solenoid needs to occur (temporarily switching direct battery power straigt to the starter) it is triggered by a lead from the ignition switch.
Long story shorter you can verify the leads at the solenoid/relay by either of the two diagrams. The difference in '66 appears to be wire #655 (ammeter) that doesn't appear to be used in '67...main point being you would not want to have #26 or any other ground making connection on one of the relay/solenoid posts.
Still wonder where that voltage is coming from...back to your comment about a broken plug electrode and where the spark would discharge to in that case...but shouldn't you have a cylinder miss firing with a broken plug:
Or the thought of the blancer acting like a winding spinning in a field, or field spinnig around a winding...but that's crazy talke...or is it
As ludwig mentions stock setup (which is the way I'd go) is battery straight to block not via frame then to block....does it make much difference *shrug*
http://www.allfordmustangs.com/forums/a ... ignit1.jpg
(which is almost the same as the 66)
Wire #26 in either diagram is the shared ground from alternator to the block that then drops into the "alternator wiring harness" momentarily and drops out of the harness (right after a plug connetion) to run over to the voltage regulator for ground...but wire #26 makes no connection at the starter relay/solenoid
The only ground for the relay/solenoid is the mounting bracket itself...when the mechanical plunger action of the solenoid needs to occur (temporarily switching direct battery power straigt to the starter) it is triggered by a lead from the ignition switch.
Long story shorter you can verify the leads at the solenoid/relay by either of the two diagrams. The difference in '66 appears to be wire #655 (ammeter) that doesn't appear to be used in '67...main point being you would not want to have #26 or any other ground making connection on one of the relay/solenoid posts.
Still wonder where that voltage is coming from...back to your comment about a broken plug electrode and where the spark would discharge to in that case...but shouldn't you have a cylinder miss firing with a broken plug
: Or the thought of the blancer acting like a winding spinning in a field, or field spinnig around a winding...but that's crazy talke...or is it
As ludwig mentions stock setup (which is the way I'd go) is battery straight to block not via frame then to block....does it make much difference *shrug*
The reason the stock configuration would be preferable is that way downstream the ground potential starts to differ, however slightly.
There might be other arcing that you are unaware of. David Schjeldal says that you need to look at the engine in the deepest dark of a moonless night to see if there is ANY electrical leakage. Could be you have some leakage, e.g. along the plug wires as mentioned, that is jumping at the flywheel.
Seems to me you could check for inadvertent magnetic potential of the ring or the wheel by hanging a steel nail or a bolt on a string and seeing if it deflects when the engine is turned off.
There might be other arcing that you are unaware of. David Schjeldal says that you need to look at the engine in the deepest dark of a moonless night to see if there is ANY electrical leakage. Could be you have some leakage, e.g. along the plug wires as mentioned, that is jumping at the flywheel.
Seems to me you could check for inadvertent magnetic potential of the ring or the wheel by hanging a steel nail or a bolt on a string and seeing if it deflects when the engine is turned off.
Sounds like this car has had electrical issues in the past someone was trying to fix. That is some strange stuff. There just is not that much stuff that should be able to generate that sort of voltage.
Maybe its some sort of alien technology and it will run without gas or battery?
Maybe its some sort of alien technology and it will run without gas or battery?
ludwig":vs3ur0t9 said:
Yeah!...what he said!
fordconvert":vs3ur0t9 said:
That's it! Perpetual motion machine
66 Fastback
Famous Member
I would be interested in seeing this problem. Maybe another set of eyes will help. Besides, if I see it too, you won't be the only crazy one on this site
I work in downtown OKC and could arrange to meet if you are interested.
Doug
Didn't this kind of stuff happen in Close Encounters of the Third Kind?
I work in downtown OKC and could arrange to meet if you are interested.
Doug
Didn't this kind of stuff happen in Close Encounters of the Third Kind?
67coupe200
Active member
im not sure that i follow, what ring are you speaking of?
the plug wires are brand new so i doubt any leakage is there, maybe somewhere else perhaps.
I cant say how its affecting the car, i mean the thing runs great...for now
'68falconohio
Well-known member
If you find that the dampener is indeed magnetized.... I've used the method on page four of this link to demagnetize parts when the residual B field interferes with welding. There's a field approach, rapping with a BFH, but I don't think that would be good for the dampener.
EDIT: forgot the link.. http://www.magnaflux.com/LinkClick.aspx ... D&tabid=36
EDIT: forgot the link.. http://www.magnaflux.com/LinkClick.aspx ... D&tabid=36
On a brand new state of the art offshore rig had a strange problem, The generator shafts were becoming charged and arcing through the bearings pitting and killing. Latest tech/ design, so nobody on rig understood, had to fly techie out of states. Down to last genset, old man electrician rigged a carbon brush and grounding strap to shaft.
Techie arrived, scratched head, scratched butt, no answer. So he, with old man electrician's help rigged carbon brushes and grounding straps to the other gen sets.
Back to your problem. Could you clean the outside of the harmomic balancer the rig a carbon brush and grounding strap or maybe to both HB and end of crank,
Techie arrived, scratched head, scratched butt, no answer. So he, with old man electrician's help rigged carbon brushes and grounding straps to the other gen sets.
Back to your problem. Could you clean the outside of the harmomic balancer the rig a carbon brush and grounding strap or maybe to both HB and end of crank,
67coupe200
Active member
so let me make sure were on the same page here, are we suggesting that the new HB from damper docs that i paid 100 dollars for is faulty and that i need to replace it? again!
That would be really terrible. I'm not really the custom fabricating type, so yeah i dont know about the carbon brush and ground strap?
That would be really terrible. I'm not really the custom fabricating type, so yeah i dont know about the carbon brush and ground strap?
The damper is not faulty. The theory, and that's all it is, points in the direction of the outer ring being inadvertently magnetized. This can happen. It is probably not fatal. In fact, you probably would not even know it if you didn't do some of the work yourself and snuck a peek under the hood once. Like you said, the car runs great. You could stop right there and there would be no problem.
