Autolite 1100 carb for an auto in a standard

Johnsondawg

Johnsondawg

Well-known member
I'm working on a converting my 200 with a 3 speed to an Automatic (C4). I currently am still running the three speed but I want to switch over to the Carb for the Automatic ( Two Dashpots ) so that I can get it dialed in before I swap in the C4. I also want to use the Auto carb because my current carb has the spark control valve and I am no longer running the Load-o-matic dizzy. Its my understanding that when you get rid of the load-o-matic you should also get rid of the carb with a spark control valve. So is there any problem with running this before swapping in the C4?
 
Howdy:

The correct Autolite 1100 for a 1967 and earlier 200 with an auto trans will have a SCV. So what disstributor are you going to be using?

Your choices of an 1100 that does not have a SCV are narrow, and not good. The 1100s used during the '68 & '69 model year do not have SCVs, but they are downsized in CFM- from 185 pre-'68 to 150 for '68 & '69.

The other option is an 1101 from a 1969 Mustang with a 250 engine and an auto trans. It does not have a SCV and is rated at 215 cfm.

Is that helpful to you?

Adios, David
 
I converted to a duraspark ignition already. I know that the 1101 would be a good choice but have not been able to locate one. The 1100 I want to put on came off of a 68 mustang 200 with a C4. It has a sticker on it indicating that it is a remanufactured carb so I have no idea if it is the "correct" one. My 200 is rebuilt with the newer "81ish" head that has been milled down 60 thousandths. The head also has the larger hole for the carb so it would be nice to take advantage of that. What other carbs could I use? I also have a weber 38DGES but I'm told its to big.
 
The late style Holley or a Carter YF are good one's to use :unsure:
 
I don't know much about the YF or the Holley but I did find a listing this evening for 1101 for about $250 remanufactured. Maybe thats the way to go?
 
Howdy Back:

The only way to know, for sure, what the '68 "rebuilt" is is to measure the inner diameter of the venturi. 1.1"= 150 cfm. 1.2" = 185 cfm. If it is true to the sticker it will have a 1.1" venturi.

The advantage of the 1101 over Carters is that it is pretty much a bolt-on. It appears the same as the 1100s too- if that's important. I sure don't like the price on the one you found. Yiks!!!

Any Carter YF from 1970 to 1979 is a good choice. It would require adapting linkage, fuel lines and some others, but a good reliable, easy to work on carb. They are rated at 187 cfm. Also the Carter RBS from 250 engines from 1970 - 1974 would work. It is rated at 215 cfm. It is a very low profile carb. Either of these carbs will be compatible with your DS ignition. Also the valve cover on the 80-ish head has brackets to facilitate a throttle cable to replace the stock linkage.

Adios, David
 
I may need to rethink my throttle linkage as well. I just looked at the two Autolite 1100 carbs I have and the linkage is different on the two. I don't think I mentioned this before but this conversion is happening on a 66 Bronco and the donor parts are from a Mustang. The idea behind using the 1100 from the Mustang was to simplify things but if I'm going to get into changing throttle linkage I guess all carb options are back on the table. Now, I could take apart both carbs and combine the needed parts from the Bronco 1100 and use them on the other 1100. That said, maybe I should consider another carb.

The 200 is a fresh rebuild. It was bored 30 over and I used a later model Head (1980 I believe ) for the larger valves. I know the later head has larger combustion chambers so I had the head milled down 60 thousandths to maintain something close to the original compression. So, given my engine specs, what other carbs should I consider?
 
you can get a remanufactured Carter YF on eBay for $159 with the 1 3/4" bore but it has the rear throttle setup which utilizes a cable.
I requires using the pedal assembly from a Maverick, Comet, Fairmont, Granada, etc.
I bought that carb and am using the cable setup.
 
IIRC you can use ANY carb with ANY distributor EXCEPT the Load-O-Matic distributor...

I currently have the 1100 pony vap and it carries the SCV but I have that capped off, and now I'm running manifold vacuum to my DUI ignition...

My 1100 has 2 dashpots, and i'm running a T-5... IMO the second dashpot is for letting go of the pedal, it'll richen the mixture up just a tad for "coasting" ability

Richard
 
MPGmustang":15hrgcxi said:
IIRC you can use ANY carb with ANY distributor EXCEPT the Load-O-Matic distributor...
Click to expand...

No offense to Richard, but that's a little too blanket of a statement IMO...however in the realm of anything is possible...I'm sure most could be made to work, although with differing degrees of performance and efficiency. Linkage, mounting, throttle plate bores, cfm ratings, vacuum feeds are all things to be considered.

Johnsondawg":15hrgcxi said:
So is there any problem with running this before swapping in the C4?
Click to expand...

EDIT: No issue that I can think of running a carb with an anti-stall dashpost while still having the standard tranny in place. The one on the inboard side of the typical 1100 is the accel pump (as I'm sure you know), and the other, outboard one (on pass side) is typically called the anti-stall dashpot. Both do perform a similar 'anti-stall' function...accel pump=extra shot of fuel on acceloration (compensating for momentary vacuum drop and resulting fuel starving from main jet during intial plunge on the throttle)...anti-stall=extra shot of fuel on deceloration. The anti-stall (second dashpot) is intended to guard against excessive bog or the engine dying with the load an auto tranny puts on the engine during deceloration (aka 'engine braking'). You can run a standard tranny with an auto carb (ie two dashpots), but you might as well dial out the 'anti-stall' dash pot screw until you get the auto tranny installed to conserve fuel, as it's no real benefit that I know of on a standard tranny setup. I'm running the auto 1100 exactly that way. Good luck!
 
Well, I have an update. I found a deal on an Autolite 1101. I wanted the larger throttle bore that the 1101 offered. I found a New Old Stock 1101 for a 1969 Mustang (No spark control valve) that was still in the original box. I will still mount it before the engine and transmission swap to get everything dialed in but I'm not sure its needed. I'm still working on the linkages as they are not the exact same as they are on the Bronco. I believe I have it figured out but I need to get it all put together to know for sure.
 
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