please help! not sure what kind of problem im having here..

E

eddieb65

New member
Hi everyone, im somewhat new to this forum (ive read plenty of threads but never actually posted anything).
I have a 65 mustang with a 200i6 and ive been having this problem with it for quite some time now. when im driving it around for a while then i turn it off its hard to get it running again when i try to restart it. it will usually start up but then when i put it into gear it turns off, unless i mash on the gas pedal right away then it sometimes will stay on, but thats kind of hard to do if im in a parking lot unless i want to crash into someone. anyways this is getting very irritating because the car is my daily driver and i cant even drive to the store and come back out and try to start it without worrying about it stalling on me 10 times before i can finally drive away.

i tried searching for any other threads like this one and couldnt really find much so sorry if im posting about something someone else already asked about. if thats the case then please give me a link to it.

either way any help will be very much appreciated!
 
I'm guessing you have an automatic transmission?
How well is it shifting?
I'm just looking for a vacuum leak or something.
 
Do a search on 'heat sink'. It sounds like that is what is going on. The carb gets way too hot and boils the fuel off, then there is no gas to keep it going. Several guys here have done something about it. One was a phenolic spacer between the carb and the intake manifold. Others fabbed up sheet metal heat shields at the base of the carb to keep the heat from the exhaust manifold away from the carb.

If you have disconnected the coolant hoses from the carb base, this can happen as well, because the coolant not only warms the base plate, it keeps it at a constant and functional temp so it won't spike. Make sure the coolant level is high enough and that you have purged all the air out, so that coolant will fill the lines to the heater, through the base plate.

It could be something else, but this would be where to start. Where do you live? Outside temp can play a role in heat sink as well.
 
thanks for the responses you guys.
yes its an automatic, sorry i forgot to state that at the begining, and yes it seems to be shifting ok. im not exactly sure how to check for vacuum leaks though..
and yea i was thinking the same thing about the heat sink based on what ive read..i couldnt find anyone that wrote about the same exact problem though so i wasnt too sure and that was why i started a new thread. ill try one of those spacers and see what happens. is there somewhere i can buy one or do i pretty much have to make it myself? i do still have the hoses running through the carb base too. and i live in socal so the temp gets pretty high.
oh yea and one thing i just remembered..im not sure if its important or not, but sometimes whenever this happens a lot of white smoke comes out of the tail pipe too.
 
Well, sounds almost like you have a blown head gasket, but just a very small blow out that only becomes a problem when the engine temp spikes after you stop the car. The engine temp will spike when you first shut it off since the block is still hot but cooling water is no longer circulated. Could also be a head that is slightly warped causing the same problem or a head bolt or two that are loose causing the head to warp slightly as it gets heated up for the same temp spike.
 
There's always a kicker after you make an observation. I was gonna say BHG too after that white smoke comment but I wanted someone smarter to chime in. Checking to the power, CobraSix.
 
to me it does sound like a head gasket, that's what happened to me. my gasket looked good but was steam cleaning my cyls, replaced it and starting it warm was never better.

but before you do check your head gasket, watch your water levels. check your oil for "foam" from water and oil mixing. the oil might not, but the water level should be lower constantly if it is a head gasket.

also, IDK but thought I might mention it, the cast exhaust manifold can go bad, where your auto-choke-tube plugs into can crack and you would start getting very hot gasses in your carb, if this happens you destroy your idle and running/starting ability because of the choke won't function properly. the only way to tell is with the car running and put a (heavily) gloved hand on the bottom of the manifold plugging the bottom hole and take your other hand and try to feel any air coming out the top hole where your tube plugs into.

good luck and keep us posted
 
hmm..ill replace my gasket then and check if the head is warped at all and see if it solves the problem. the water does seem to be constantly low so im hoping thats what it is, i just want this thing fixed already so i can drive it more. ill check the exhaust manifold as well like you said MPG.
thanks again for all the responses everyone. :D
im gonna try to get it done this week if i have time and ill post up about how it goes.
 
Welcome aboard eddieb65.
You couldn’t have found a better place for your Inline Six.

There are many reasons for your issue. All of the suggestions above need to be confirmed ether innocent or culprit. .

If it is a head gasket you will have air bubbles and foam in your radiator if you are using antifreeze and the fracture crosses any water port..

If the gasket is fractured between cylinders you will have low compression on those 2 effected cylinders.

A compression test will help to confirm.

Also your timing will cause the same issue. Check and confirm your static and vacuum advance timing is correct.

Last and I would try first:
This comes from the old old school.. If it is caused by vapor locking as a result from excessive heat.
Get some old style wooden clothespins and clip several along the fuel line that is near your block all the way up to the carburetor.. This is suppose to draw the heat off..

I ant never had a cause to try this but according to the old timers it does work. As I see it ant no harm in trying it..

For the white smoke coming out after it has sat for a while is a good indication to me your valve stem oil seals are worn out.
This will not cause your hard to start when hot tho..

G/L
 
Stop Stop Stop

Primary rule of Trouble Shooting

Always try the cheapest/Easiest stuf first.

I would

Make sure your car is in good tune

Make sure you carb, fuel pump and all the fuel filters are in good shape

Check the fuel lines for leaks

Do a compression test with motor warmed up, throttle wide open, COIL DISCONNECTED, all the plugs removed, both with oil and after with one teaspoon of oil in each cylender as you test it

Get a coolant system pressurizer and test for leakage, if your head gasket is blown your cooling system won't hold pressure



Start with these and let us know what happens
 
Words of wisdom. Short form: start at the bottom and work up; don't introduce more than one variable at a time.

I thought it was simply starts hard when hot, assuming that everything else was fine. The white smoke opened up the larger collection of variables.
 
looks like i got quite a few things to do then..most of the easier stuff im pretty sure is already good, but i suppose it doesnt hurt to double check since it has been a while. ok well it might be a lil while but when i get this figured out ill post it on here so if anyone else is having the same problem it will hopefully help them out.
and again thanks for all the responses, i had no idea where to even start before i came on here.
 
How about some info on the engine, like the mileage, and has it ever been rebuilt?
Because if not, you may have multiple issues with which to contend as you dig further into the problem.

I just want to suggest that you start thinking in terms of the whole motor might need "freshening up", depending on it's current condition. And if in fact you find your search leads you considering having to rebuild this engine, you might think in terms of actually acquiring another to rebuild so that you can just swap in a fresh motor if it comes to that.
 
69.5Mav":2m43anmu said:
both with oil and after with one teaspoon of oil in each cylender
Click to expand...


IS: both with oil and after with one teaspoon of oil in each cylender

SB: both without oil and after with one teaspoon of oil in each cylender
 
to run a oil compresion test

make sure engine is at temp, then shut off
pull coil wire, no spark needed (or desired)
pull plug 1, test compresion, write down result (this is your dry test)
add 1-2 teaspoons of oil, test compresion again, write down result (this is your wet test)
repeat for each cyl

sure ppl can get into details on how to crank and how long to crank but rule of thumb is no more than 10 sec crank time OR when the presure can't go higher. I have my keys in ignition then use a screw driver as my switch at the silinoid...
 
Oh yeah a remote start switch is a great little tool.
If you buy a cheap one you can use it at least oh maybe 8 or 10 times before it'll start to fall apart... :LOL: :x
 
MPGmustang":3i88bglz said:
a screw driver accross the terminals has never fallen apart on me... ;)
Click to expand...
Try to do it standing on the other side of the car while bumping it to see TDC on balancer..... :mrgreen:
 
JackFish":1opit0ez said:
How about some info on the engine, like the mileage, and has it ever been rebuilt?
Because if not, you may have multiple issues with which to contend as you dig further into the problem.

I just want to suggest that you start thinking in terms of the whole motor might need "freshening up", depending on it's current condition. And if in fact you find your search leads you considering having to rebuild this engine, you might think in terms of actually acquiring another to rebuild so that you can just swap in a fresh motor if it comes to that.
Click to expand...


my dad says he had it rebuilt when he first bought it but that was over 10 years ago and then it just sat in my backyard uncovered for most of that time..it reads 22491 miles. i was worrying about other problems poping up too when im trying to fix this one but i didnt want to think about that because i didnt want it to happen haha..now im thinking im just gonna save a lil more money untill i can have the whole thing rebuilt instead of trying to find out this one problem because thats really what i want to do anyways.
 
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