A Cool Running

66 Fastback":24cwpwk3 said:

The additional timing will increase the idle speed and help cooling. It also helps the engine cope with the load that the AC will put on it. With all new cooling equipment, I think you have a timing problem.

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rbohm":24cwpwk3 said:

go back over the basics, what causes an engine to run hot. lean fuel mixture, timing advanced or retarded too far

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JackFish":24cwpwk3 said:

And advanced timing can increase heat, can it not?I see your cam is advanced 4°, what's your static timing?

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You mentioned that you were thinking of retarding the timing from 14 to 7. That will likely raise the engine temp. To help the cooling, you need to dial in all the ignition advance that you can as long as you don't ping

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maybe others would think this is confusing advice...
I guess there is a "middle ground" or magic number to find

so help me think this through...
12* static (raised from 7*)
24* @ 3,000 rpm
total
38* + 4* cam
then add vacuum... ???

My vacuum canister was bad, I replaced it from a 76 chevy truck with a 305, turns out the vacuum can is spot on, 3/4 advance @ 6psi and full @ 10psi. I see 11-13 on idle, and flat I see 14 @ cruise. I'll re-try the stop and go tests.
the rad show's 220 intake, and along the bottom is 195-210, only cooling 10-25* isn't ideal, but seems consistant and the guage sits on 215* (all with AC on) only 12% of the heat!
to me does this rad sound like it's "keeping up"? I mean don't you want the rad to get rid of enough heat to be able to touch the "cool" side?

Edit:
Thanks guys you probably saved me more head ache later, it's funny cause the canister was holding vacuum last week. but the fact that most of last weeks dyno's were ran lean makes me wonder about this canister. I would like to thank all those who posted and helped me fight some heat issues, it just runs hot here in AZ.

An update with the 32hp bolt on carb, the heat stayed consistant around 215 ish with AC on full blast. the engine really wakes up around 3k rpm and is a blast to drive. hopfully i see some stop and go traffic and see where my temp's go. for now I think I'm good to drive.

The cool side of the radiator will not be cool to the touch. To cool that much would take either really cool air temps or an oversized cooling system. 215 deg with the AC on sounds reasonable to me.


The 4 deg cam advance has nothing to do with the ignition advance. They are two different animals, and you don't add the ignition timing and the cam timing to come up with a total advance. Granted the cam advance may affect where ignition timing is ultimately going to be set for optimized ignition timing. Advanced valve events will result in the intake valve closing sooner and building slightly more compression which would reduce the amount of ignition advance required under some conditions.

Retarded ignition timing really raised the temp. If your distrubutor vac advance uses manifold vacuum, if you pull the vac hose off, it will not be long before you see the temps rise rapidly. How much does your vac cannister advance the timing? You mentioned it is all in at 10".
Doug

66 Fastback":3l5nldtz said:

How much does your vac cannister advance the timing?

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IDK, but it does advance, not retard... lol... I do know at autozone it's found on a 76 chevy truck with a 305ci

66 Fastback":3l5nldtz said:

215 deg with the AC on sounds reasonable to me

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I agree, and most impotant it's consistant. every time.

66 Fastback":3l5nldtz said:

deg cam advance has nothing to do with the ignition advance

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This I was never sure about, I couldn't find anything for or against my theory on google... great to know, I'll add some more timing.

you guy's were right, I'm glad I was talked out of going with the bigger rad, my system is cooling fine in the heat, I think this might be my first summer where the car is able to cool itself and me very well. I think the coolant swap to water wetter and fixing the vac can helped. along with fishing for all those loose bits floating around.

While I still find floaters in the radiator I don't have any excessive heat. I think replacing the radiator with another stock fit alum will help as I'm sure I got some tubes that are plugged, but for now it works and it's too hot to work on the car. I'll get a Gano filter if I switch radiators.

I think in the future I'm might splurge and get a front valence with an air dam. like the ones found here (# 6 on the 65-66 options), then I'll also get an air foil so that all air is forced through the radiator. these two items will probably help my temps decrease and hopefully keeps the temps around t-stat temp for highway driving. and the nice thing about both is I won't have to "cut to fit" anything, well maybe the fiberglass but the top peice bolts in (I just hope it clears all my horns and AC components) Maybe (fingers crossed) with these mods I'll be able to run with the rad fan off on the freeway's.

Thanks again guy's IOU...

MPGmustang":2b7oqdvr said:

air is forced through the radiator

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Ford put weather stripping along the rear of the hood and on the core support in order to keep air out.

You might try some weather stripping to seal these areas up, I don't think it could hurt and it's something cheap that you can do even when it's hot.

them weather stripps I got, the front one is off atm, I've modified the rad support to push the radiator 1 inch forward a while back, I'll try to get it on there, might need to go get some metal tap screws,
I have the rear seal, but I wonder if it's upside down or not, currently it has the "L" <-- just like that, should it be flipped?

You can get stick on weather stripping by the roll from your local hardware store, the kind you use to seal the doors on your house. Then just keep putting one on top of the last till you get the sealing you need.