Turns over but won't start

After a long winter I attempted to start my 200. It started fine last fall and I have not changed anything in the engine so I do not think it would be timing. As long as the key is in the starting position it sounds like it wants to start, we let go of the key and engine stops. We pulled #1 spark plug and there was a good strong spark.

I did have my first DSII go bad, so could this be the problem? Maybe bad gas after sitting for 8 months? Another thing I would expect a strong smell of gas, but there is none, the fuel pump and filter were changed last fall so I would not expect any problem there...but...
Could the carb be the issue?

Any suggestions would be appreciated?

Maybe something stuck, like a float, or needle or some gunk in the carb from sitting?
I'd pull the carb and clean it. Might have some gas sludge.

IIWIYS, first thing I'd do is look down the throat of carb and rap the throttle, looking for accel pump fuel shot. If it's there, rule out fuel delivery for the moment. If it's not, before I pulled the carb as Jack suggested I'd take the fuel line loose at carb (which you have to do anyway before you pull it) and run the open end of line in to a can while someone bumps the starter...verifying and eliminating the other portion of fuel delivery.

8mos old ethanol any % fuel is old enough to make clogging/varnish issues worse. I 'personally' might still try to use it 'IF' I can put as much fresh fuel in as I've got old...once it's running. If it's not much fuel, might suggest, and it's probably better for the engine, to dump the old. Good luck!

Pore a little gas down the carb, a couple of OZs, to prime it, then try to start it. When my maverick sits for a week I can spin it and spin it but it won't start till it is primed. From then on it starts like a champ.

Any Progress.

69.5Mav":3b57t6lc said:

Pore a little gas down the carb, a couple of OZs, to prime it, then try to start it. When my maverick sits for a week I can spin it and spin it but it won't start till it is primed. From then on it starts like a champ.

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Yah, you need to pump the gas pedal a few times.
I go with about five or six pumps in the winter.

little gas down the carb,
I go with about 5 or 6 pumps in the winter

All necessary @ my house untill the rebuild (sooty exhaust, stumble @ idle... I'll stop there).
Now just turn the key, or in winter press 1X all the way gently to the floor & release. Accelerates same but idles/runs totally different now 2.

chad":15lwdq86 said:

I go with about 5 or 6 pumps in the winter

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I can pump my maverick till I'm blue in the face and the cow have come home and gone to bed, it won't start with out priming the carb, but a couple of ozs of gas and she fires right up.

HiYa!
I've been quoted, quoting somebody else
Not my wrds...

Anyway -
There's something wrong if U need to pump 5 - 6 times.

After rebuild - just turn the key. After several decades of starting (& running, esp @ idle) problems it feels to me like a brandy spankin new vehicle! No pre-prime needed (bronk hoods R heavy! esp w/sno on em). Not even a one-time-smash-the-peddle-to-the-floor. I suggest it. Took so long to correct it (no cofidence), but guys here walked me thru the rebuild.

Sorry Chad I didnt notice that you were quoting some one else.

The problem he is having is that his carb is dry after sitting for a long time, mine dose the exact same thing, and his fuel pump is not strong enough to get the carb primed at cranking speed. A small amount of gas down the carb will cause the engine to run briefly increasing the flow from the fuel pump and filling the carb enough to keep the engine running.

I have seen several vehicles do this over the years. If you drive them every day you won't even notice this but let them sit long enough for the gas in the carb to evaporate away and you have a hard time starting them with the mechanical fuel pump. Now if you have an electric fuel pump that's a whole different story.

Hi 69.5 Mav -
Guess I read it wrong,
so spark seems OK but fuel not so.
Think it's the mechanical pump?

Jackfish n Faraninstang have some good ideas...
Wass up now jlopes?

chad":1r30ti2e said:

Think it's the mechanical pump?

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I don't know about it being bad but it's been acting this way sinse 1980. Drive it every day and no problem. Let it sit a week or two and you got to prime it. My philosiphy is if it ain't broke don't fix it.

All he has to do is prime it and I bet it starts right up and runs fine.

I tried all the regular tricks. I poured gas down the carb, however, it died as soon as the key moved to the "run" position.
I forgot to mention I have a dsii, so took it to autozone and it tested fine. I also disconnected the gas line at the carb and there was plenty of fuel.

My next step is to remove the carb and make sure the float isn't stuck.

One more thing. I checked the voltage at the coil and there was 12v to ground on both posts.

jlopes":qh1ljp13 said:

I tried all the regular tricks. I poured gas down the carb, however, it died as soon as the key moved to the "run" position.
I forgot to mention I have a dsii, so took it to autozone and it tested fine. I also disconnected the gas line at the carb and there was plenty of fuel.
My next step is to remove the carb and make sure the float isn't stuck.
One more thing. I checked the voltage at the coil and there was 12v to ground on both posts.

Click to expand...

Ad U just squirted couppla oz (3 - 4 shot glasses) of gas in carb?

"died" meaning it DID run on couppla oz gas? "run" like what?
May B timing? Some check the mechanical pump w/a can held above, hose dwn to carb.

OOPS.I think that the "key" to the problem here is the fact that the motor dies when the key is returned to the run position.Check the wiring at the switch and the DS2 box.
Good luck.Have fun.Be safe.
Leo

On the two prong plug of the control module, if the wires are swapped it will do that. I had one recently that the wires were swapped in the plug itself and did not match the other side. With key in run position you should have voltage to plus side of coil. If not, you need to find out why. In start it gets a full 12v from "I" term of solenoid relay.
Edit: reread post and plug wouldn't be the problem, but you still need to check the voltage.

Found out what the problem was.... stupid me switched the white and red wire going into the the duraspark, once I switch them it fired up right away. Boy I feel dumb.

Thanks all for your suggestions.

feel dumb.
No "dumb" here, we're all learnin. 'Least I am.
Keep talkin...
woodbutcher, jlopes and Explorer just conducted class 4 me, I'm big enuff now to not skip class any more. 8^ )
Eureka!
Enjoy the holiday!

What threw me for a loop is I had 12 volts on the "+" terminal when the key was in the "run" position, so I thought everything was wired correctly. Its when I went back to the original wiring diagram, http://www.mustangsteve.com/conversion.html that I noticed that there is 12volts to the coil from the key in both "start" and "run" positions and a dull bulb went off in my head....

Oh well at least I didnt blow anything. In todays car you flip a couple of wire and you could have a very expensive fix on your hands.

It's an easy mistake to make. Especially if the blasted plug you wired in was swapped in the connector. Took me awhile to notice that. May all your problems be that easy.