New Engine Build

Mustang_Geezer

Well-known member
:D

Learned a lot on my original build so here goes my next one,

66 virgin block with the original pistons, rod and main bearings (fomoco markings) and original crank. I'll update this thread as the build progresses but heres what I did this weekend.

The block was "0" decked, (shaved .040 off the block) and It was bored .040. We are figuring its going to be around 11:1-11.25.1 compression. Not a pump gas motor by any means.

It was hot tanked last summer so I did some final prep, masked it off and sprayed on 2 coats of Deltron DP 40 epoxy primer.

August282011190.jpg


I let it dry over night and sprayed on 2 coats of Deltron DCC single stage paint. I called the PPG color library and got a prophet formula for Ford engine blue.

August282011194.jpg


Next weekend I am planning on installing the crank and main bearings.

Later,

Doug
 
tri-power 250":1zv2yl0t said:
Doug,
Have you looked at using Ford 4.6 L pistons. Manley makes a 3.7" dia piston that is a flattop.
Just curious.
Ken

Where did you see these pistons? The largest 4.6L pistons I've seen are 3.651" diameter.
 
tri-power 250":1ocupevn said:
http://www.race-mart.com/Manley-MAN-594070C-8.html
Here is the piston. This is the piston I plan to use in my 250 build. I am going to see if Manley can make a complete flat top piston without valve reliefs.
Ken

The pistons you noted have a compression height of 1.220", instead of the stock 1.500". How are you going to make up the 0.280" difference?
 
rocklord, 300 rods are 6.2097 in length, 250 rods are 5.88 long. The deck height will be .0843, instead of .150.
I am going to use 300 rods. The crank bearings are the same.
Ken
 
Ken,

Sounds good. Will give you a rod/stroke ratio of 1.59, similar to the 1.60 that the Australian 4.1L Crossflow has using 200conrods.

Are there any clearance issues with using the 300 rods?

If you can do with hypereutectic pistons, look at the 2002-04 4.7L V8, 1mm overbore Jeep piston. Similar specs but only $34/each.

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/SLP-H1103CP1-00M/

Good luck. Keep us posted.
 
Howdy Doug:

Nice photos of your 200 (re)build. What are the rest of the plans for this engine? How about an update to get this thread back on track.

Adios, David
 
There's nothing like a fresh block with fresh paint 8) Very sharp!

Doug, I'm assuming you paint with hvlp setup, woulld that be correct? Is that a self-etching primer, or do take any special steps to prep for prime? Thanks in advance, and again looks great! Good luck (y)
 
tri-power 250":16ngqpds said:
Doug,
Have you looked at using Ford 4.6 L pistons. Manley makes a 3.7" dia piston that is a flattop.
Just curious.
Ken

Ken,

I had really good luck with the 2.3 litre HSC piston in the past so I'm using them again. Havent really looked at anything else. Jack (MustangSix) and David (CZLN6) recomended these pistons to me years ago and they have never given me any problems.

Later,

Doug
 
CZLN6":t02fcj9q said:
Howdy Doug:

Nice photos of your 200 (re)build. What are the rest of the plans for this engine? How about an update to get this thread back on track.

Adios, David

Thanks David! :D

Its another street/strip (emphasis on strip) motor for my Mustang. Last year I bought all the parts and had all the machine work done to my original 1966 motor that came out of my Mustang. The motor thats in it now is out of a 78 Granada that I 1st built back in 1999 when we were all on the Clifford forums.

The 1966 motor is bored .040 over, "0" decked, tricked out forged rods, ARP rod bolts and 2.3 litre HSC flatop pistons. Everything was balanced by Speed Pro and I'm reusing my ARP head studs from my current motor.

Compression as stated at the begining of this thread should be around 11.0-11.25 to 1. Figuring on shifting it between 6200-6300 RPM's Not quite sure being they are cast pistons. I shift my current motor @ 6000 rpms and have done that 1000's of times with no issues.

The cam is a Schnieder Racing cam with a .512 lift and .280 duration. The @ .050 specs are .310 lift and 222 duration. IIRC the cam is rated from 2500-6500 rpms.

I'm reusing my Aussie oil pan, harmonic balancer, 1.6 ratio roller rockers, valve cover, DUI distributor, aluminum head/intake/600 cfm Holley 4 Bbl carb, header and a few other parts.

My best pass was a 14.11 @ 95 mph with the old motor. We believe that this motor should easily pull 13.70's @ 97 mph

Later,

Doug
 
Frankenstang":3bb8ep3n said:
There's nothing like a fresh block with fresh paint 8) Very sharp!

Doug, I'm assuming you paint with hvlp setup, would that be correct? Is that a self-etching primer, or do take any special steps to prep for prime? Thanks in advance, and again looks great! Good luck (y)

Robert,

Yes, I have several HVLP guns in my inventory, being I'm an ex bodyman/painter ;) My 2 favorites are my DeVilbiss GTI that I use for base and a Devilbiss GTI Plus that I use for clear.

DP 40 can be used over bare metal and thats how I usually use it. You can also cut it up to 10% with DT 870 or DT 885 if you want to use it as a sealer.

I just sprayed it down real good with carb cleaner, let it dry for awhile then blew it off good.

Thanks,

Doug
 
Doug, engine looks super. Like you said if it runs as good as it looks you will have a winner.

Do you plan to get the mill together & installed before the fall racing season ends???

The engine would like the cool autum air & really perform. If its too cold traction might be an issue.

Best of luck on its maiden pass. Bill :D :D :beer:
 
Woo Hoo! It's going to be a screamer!

Years ago I recall us discussing how to control the oil in the pan. Any new thoughts on scrapers, windage trays, or pan baffles?
 
wsa111":2vf4e1ow said:
Doug, engine looks super. Like you said if it runs as good as it looks you will have a winner.

Do you plan to get the mill together & installed before the fall racing season ends???

The engine would like the cool autum air & really perform. If its too cold traction might be an issue.

Best of luck on its maiden pass. Bill :D :D :beer:

Thanks Bill :D

I havent decided yet....

I'm going to work on it this weekend and see how much of the short block I can get together.

I have to leave the other motor in the car being we are going to the Funny Car Nationals next weekend and to get in for free (have rainchecks from last year) the car has to go through tech at least so we can have our "Pit Party" with a bunch of my friends that are racing there.

So I cant pull the motor till the following weekend. Once I get it out I have to take the head to the machinist's and have him check the valve spring pressures. My cam card says 110-120 closed and 280-300 open so I might very well have to get differant springs for it.

Later,

Doug
 
MustangSix":3v94uko9 said:
Woo Hoo! It's going to be a screamer!

Years ago I recall us discussing how to control the oil in the pan. Any new thoughts on scrapers, windage trays, or pan baffles?

Jack,

I sincerely hope so!! :mrgreen:

Yes, I remember that conversation we had. I ended up buying one of those Aussie 7 qt deep sump oil pans with the built in windage tray as a result of that conversation! ;)

It seems to be working pretty good. My main concern is that oils have changed so much I'm kinda concerned about breaking in this cam. I'm going to be using rotella oil and I have a bottle of Lucas break in additive I'm going to be adding too.

Later,

Doug
 
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