Heated carb spacer on 170 - Do I need it???

It's a stock 170, with Load-O-Matic set-up and heated carb spacer in a '61 Ranchero. I'm installing a Classic Auto Air heat/defrost/AC unit.

The original heater had constant flow of coolant through the core, so coolant also was always supplied to the spacer. The after-market unit has a cable-operated valve to control the coolant flow to the
heater. When I close it for summer driving, no coolant will flow to the spacer. When I open it during cold weather, it's back to full flow to the spacer.

I know there are opposing views about the value of the heated spacer, but either way, I doubt that it's a good idea to have it sometimes and not at other times. I'd think it would be impossible to tune for both conditions.

I know I can just plumb around it and forget it, but wondered if anyone had any thoughts.

-Stu

what you could do, IMO is bypass it, then get a 2nd heater hose bypass valve and route it to open when the other is closed, this will keep coolant flowing at all times (like the heater core used to have)

bypassing the carb spacer is really an opinion on where you live, if you live somewhere it snow's and gets icy yeah leave it on even during summer, but if not like AZ in the valley and it never snows or see ice, then bypass it as it's not needed.

if only the company gave a valve that would keep the circulation of the water when we don't want heat... IMO it's the only annoyance to work with.

I have done some testing but not as much as Id like, the temp difference in water bypass vs flow thorugh (spacer), and water stopped vs free flow (heater bypass) someday I'll try but just food for thought...

Good thoughts MPG. That's what I was hoping for when I posted this. Jumping off what you said about a second heater valve, maybe I can rig up a link that closes one while the other opens. You've got me to thinking, which can be dangerous .

-Stu

I'm in Texas, and I bypass it in the summer and hook it up in the winter. A valve would be handier, but I don't have one and I do have this handy piece of pipe for the bypass.

Shouldn't be any tuning difference between having or not having, all it really does is help heat the carb faster on cold startups.

all it really does is help heat the carb faster on cold startups.
No use for "carb icing" or "vapor lock"?

In cold temps, the need is obvious. In cool damp weather the carb can ice up, so a little heat helps, event in summer.

In warm weather, the spacer helps keep the carb temps down to the level of the coolant temp. Keep in mind that the intake floor is also the ceiling of the center two exhaust ports, so the temps can get pretty high. It wouldn't be unusual for that portion of the intake to go well over 200-250F or more, so bringing it down to 180F would be helpful.

Hey Jack,
I wonder how much of a difference that would give to 2bbl users, more importantly if it makes any difference in +110* summers.
Maybe I can take a carb spacer and modify it to flow liquid instead of air, and plug that air leak in the center... Sounds like a project I could try when I get some free time.

Richard

the carb can ice up
can't vapor lock occur more often w/o it?

Okay, for now I'll leave the spacer hooked up so the water flows through it and the heater valve. That way I'll have hot water to the ccarb anytime the heater is on even slightly.

One question about the direction of coolant flow, just to be sure. It looks like the hose nipple coming from the water pump on the passenger side is the pressure line, and one on the other side of the engine the return line. Or am I totally backward on this? If someone can either confirm this or correct me, I'd really appreciate it.

Thanks for all the input.

-Stu

stu in wichita":39j0puij said:

Or am I totally backward on this? If someone can either confirm this or correct me, I'd really appreciate it.

Click to expand...

Routing should be the same as on the 200, passenger side of head is output (through the carb spacer, then through the heater core), return is at the water pump. Good luck!

MPGmustang":6g4dd48k said:

Hey Jack,
I wonder how much of a difference that would give to 2bbl users, more importantly if it makes any difference in +110* summers.
Maybe I can take a carb spacer and modify it to flow liquid instead of air, and plug that air leak in the center... Sounds like a project I could try when I get some free time.

Richard

Click to expand...

There are stock ford spacers that have coolant passages. try looking for 1960's 289 spacers and you'll probably find one on ebay or C-list.

Keep in mind that the original spacer has a post that screws into the side of the spacer.
This is to mount your mechanical linkage.

kukm66":2cd3uirv said:

Keep in mind that the original spacer has a post that screws into the side of the spacer.
This is to mount your mechanical linkage.

Click to expand...

Forgot about that. True on Falconero's but not on Mustangs.

Not sure about other members, I bypassed mine on a whim after tryin everything else in the book when I had horrible stalling, boiling over, overheating issues and it fixed it about 95%. I live about three hours north of you and drive year round without it flowing. No problems.