66mustang0103
Well-known member
Just out of curiosity what would be the stock redline for the inline 6 200. Its in a 66 mustang with a c-4 auto.
Stock Redline?
- Thread starter 66mustang0103
- Start date
About 4500rpm, 5000rpm with a tailwind or going downhill.
Thats when your stock engine will run out of breathing ability and wont go any faster. The engine's asthmatic cylinder heads breathing ability means engine runs out of breath before it hits any mechanical limits.
Thats when your stock engine will run out of breathing ability and wont go any faster. The engine's asthmatic cylinder heads breathing ability means engine runs out of breath before it hits any mechanical limits.
66mustang0103":16wo9rlz said:
Redline = Parts on the road minus about 100 RPM... The stock engines will typically run out of air and not easily exceed dangerous redline RPM but we keep trying. I have been asking for info on rev-limiters for weekend racing with some reserve of safety when the tach sweeps up fast and the adrenaline is flowing.
I close in on 5500 with the performance built 250 six but slow it down @ 4000 with stock 4 main 170.
HAve Fun
OK, more seriously
My 200 has forged pistons, forged factory rods with ARP rod bolts, stainless steel valves, aftermarket valve springs, and is custom balanced.
My poor flowing asthmatic big log head breathes a bit better with pocket porting and top of log milled for Holley 2300 series 2bbl adapter.
With factory forged rods most builders say about 6400rpm is limit but I am using hydraulic cam which limits high rpm. Since I will be running a turbo I figure about 6000rpm will be max anyways.
I am planning to install a MSD box with the rev limiter set at 6000rpm.
There are guys that race 200's that hit 7000 and 7500rpm but that requires more expensive and exotic gear such as aftermarket forged rods and solid lifter cams.
I have had a couple of cars that were factory redlined at 6200rpm but on a daily driver/street car how often are you actually running motor up past 5500rpm?
My 200 has forged pistons, forged factory rods with ARP rod bolts, stainless steel valves, aftermarket valve springs, and is custom balanced.
My poor flowing asthmatic big log head breathes a bit better with pocket porting and top of log milled for Holley 2300 series 2bbl adapter.
With factory forged rods most builders say about 6400rpm is limit but I am using hydraulic cam which limits high rpm. Since I will be running a turbo I figure about 6000rpm will be max anyways.
I am planning to install a MSD box with the rev limiter set at 6000rpm.
There are guys that race 200's that hit 7000 and 7500rpm but that requires more expensive and exotic gear such as aftermarket forged rods and solid lifter cams.
I have had a couple of cars that were factory redlined at 6200rpm but on a daily driver/street car how often are you actually running motor up past 5500rpm?
EVERY DAY!!!!Anlushac11":132b8tcc said:
no seriously, I do
:rolflmao: I have a stock bottom end, Except for the cam, and ARP rod bolts, of course it's balanced (I wonder about that), and I have been currently reving to 6k on my 6k tack, I'm sure once I accedently past it... :mrgreen: ... but the engine runs great, no abnormal shaking, no bits flying off (that I can see)
Now the only time I'm at 6k rpm is 1st gear at stoplight racing, or 2nd gear on a freeway on-ramp... I love to hear the engine sing... who cares about mileage, I'm still getting 19mpg while doing this :roll:
the real question is, can you get the 200ci to rev to 10k rpm... naturally?
for my stock engine, before, 4500 seemed to be all it could do, and that's holding the pedal on the floor. roughly 92mph on a flat road using my C4... it took 8 miles just to get up there!!!
Rustang 250
New member
Does the extra stroke on a 250 make the RPM ceiling lower by any chance? It's kind of disappointing to know my six will run outta go at 5000 rpm.
Yes the 250 with its yard long stroke does not rev near as well as the 200. The 200 inline six except for its log head is a excellent design and will hold up to lots of abuse.
Add the Classic Inlines Aluminum head which solves the breathing problem and you have unleashed a foul beastie.
Add the Classic Inlines Aluminum head which solves the breathing problem and you have unleashed a foul beastie.
Yes the 250 with its yard long stroke does not rev near as well as the 200
I thought that's what a "stroker" was. - I got no automotive theory (how many Xs is it now I've said that) -
"Stroked" sos it would have tq not hp? Still 7 mains... U want a 'rev.er'? how bout the 'square' design (stroke = displacement). That's the motor w/the W I D E power band, no? We got "pan cake" engines (flat - 180* across pistons on each opposite bank) etc, etc. All designed for sompin, but what, I don't know...fill me in, eh? (on the 4 sm6s only & w/in the thread - ie red line rev). I know the Falcon wuz supposed to B a Bug squasher (more room, nice trunk, same good mpgs, etc).
I thought that's what a "stroker" was. - I got no automotive theory (how many Xs is it now I've said that) -
"Stroked" sos it would have tq not hp? Still 7 mains... U want a 'rev.er'? how bout the 'square' design (stroke = displacement). That's the motor w/the W I D E power band, no? We got "pan cake" engines (flat - 180* across pistons on each opposite bank) etc, etc. All designed for sompin, but what, I don't know...fill me in, eh? (on the 4 sm6s only & w/in the thread - ie red line rev). I know the Falcon wuz supposed to B a Bug squasher (more room, nice trunk, same good mpgs, etc).
66mustang0103
Well-known member
Tried to quote MPGMustang but couldnt figure out how
still new to the forum thing lolSeriously, thats kinda dissappointing :roll: Right now mines completely sock but I plan on eventually goin to a 2 barrel, dual exhaust, DS2 ignition, And 1.6 roller rockers along with some porting and polishing on the heads. Eventually may go to a four speed but idk yet lol
And as far as a stroker in my opinion a stroker has a big stroker (obviosily) but the bigger the stoke the lower the rev limit and more torque, the shorter the stroke the more horsepower and higher revs. Thats how I think of it anyway.......Feel free to correct Im 17 and still learnin lol
You could see about getting a 221 short block, best of both worlds. More cubes and can still rev pretty well.
If you put enough money into it you could make a 250 rev into the higher rpms. Money can fix most problems in automobiles.
Billet fully counterweighted crank, forged H beam rods, forged pistons, solid lifter cam, main cap stud girdle, ported and polished big valve DOHC head.
The Aussie 4.0L will rev with the best of them and its about a 3.63in bore x 3.91in stroke.
My point is the 200 and 250 run out of breathing before your in danger of breaking parts from overreving.
Once you modify head to improve breathing your weak link is valve springs, rod bolts, and cast pistons.
Im not too worried about snapping a 200 crank.
On my 200 I very much wanted aftermarket forged rods but just could not afford them. With aftermarket rods and solid cam I feel I could hit 7000rpm.
If you put enough money into it you could make a 250 rev into the higher rpms. Money can fix most problems in automobiles.
Billet fully counterweighted crank, forged H beam rods, forged pistons, solid lifter cam, main cap stud girdle, ported and polished big valve DOHC head.
The Aussie 4.0L will rev with the best of them and its about a 3.63in bore x 3.91in stroke.
My point is the 200 and 250 run out of breathing before your in danger of breaking parts from overreving.
Once you modify head to improve breathing your weak link is valve springs, rod bolts, and cast pistons.
Im not too worried about snapping a 200 crank.
On my 200 I very much wanted aftermarket forged rods but just could not afford them. With aftermarket rods and solid cam I feel I could hit 7000rpm.
66mustang0103
Well-known member
Eh Im planning on keeping the 200 for now, Im in the process of restoring the car for my daily driver so getting it on the road is the first part! lol