Help with engine noise

I was wondering if some Early Ford Six guru's could have a listen to this video I made of my 144 powered 62 Falcon. I have pulled the rocker cover off, pulled rocker assembly apart and removed the pushrods. Cleaned everything up and put it back together but the noise is still there, however it is now less frequent and not as loud with the valve adjustment set correctly. I can pretty much replicate the noise with everything apart by quickly moving the pushrods up and down with no rocker gear in place. The noise, to me seems to be coming from the lifter/camshaft area. Being a solid lifter motor they shouldnt be "gummed up" as such.
Anyway any opinions welcome.

http://s82.photobucket.com/albums/j268/ ... 280160.mp4

I'm wondering if one of the lifters isn't going bad.
Also check the exhaust manifold bolts and see if they're still tight.

Sure sounds like a mixture of leaky exhaust and worn lifters to me as well, but if they really are solid lifters and you were able to adjust them and they all take roughly the same amount of adjustment on the rockers, then I'd suspect an extremely worn timing chain/gears (possibly even loose).

My first six was a 144 in a 61 Comet. It had solid lifters and adjustable rockers.

Thanks for the replies, It does have a slight leak around the flange gasket but the noise that concerns me is the knocking/clacking from the rear of the engine. It definitely sounds like the lifters to me even though the lash is set as per my workshop manual. I was leaning towards worn lifters or camshaft lobes but wondering if its a common thing on these early solid lifter engines?

I may end up just replacing the engine with a 170 narrow block

4Litre_SiX":3i2l3d50 said:

replacing the engine with a 170 narrow block

Click to expand...

Was there more than 1 170? I heard there's documentation on final yr engines w/ more mains than the earlier yrs?

Not sure about overseas but in Australia the 170 was released in a "wider" block to suit the larger BW35 3 speed auto and 3 speed manuals. Im pretty sure all engines had 4 main bearings until the 200 was updated in around 65 to seven main bearings

Ok I had a good play with it today. I tried it with the rockers loose, tight and set correctly. The noise did not change. What I do know is that its coming from around the cylinder 5 area. The noise seems to come and go, crankshaft thrust washer worn or missing? Big ends? Its a strange sound. Was thinking wrist pins too but removing spark plug lead doesnt change a thing.

I also just noticed that if I push and pull on the crank pulley ( balancer ) I can move it in and out a few mm with a clunk

others w/more knowlwdge have already offered. Could it be the rear main crank bering. hafta pull the pan to C I assume.

have you done a compresion test?

I would try one, warm and dry then add 2tsp of oil and try again for each cylinder. # 5 could be valve float and warn springs, possibly even a spring about to go. look under the valve cover and see if the rocker arms are hitting the cover??? the crank play is normal for a loved i6 just don't play with it much (you might poke your eye out ) loose rings is a possibility and you're hearing piston slap. anothing way to listen to the noise is taking a screw driver (long) and place it on certain points around the block and listen for the strange noise, it could be the gas pump clacking on it's lobe. either way be careful, it looks old and everyone here knows what old stuff does when it's not happy.

Thanks again for the replies guys. Yep I have been all over the thing with a screwdriver etc. Ran it with the rocker cover off and the knock is still there at idle. Very inconsistent and usually only when it has warmed up a little. I will gve it a compression test and report back. One thing I did notice is that if I tried to adjust the valve clearances with the engine idling. As soon as I put pressure on #5 intake/exhaust valve adjuster nut the rpm would drop down.And I mean just pressure, I hadnt actually even turned the adjuster nut yet.

I also rocked the engine back and forth with a spanner on the front pulley this morning and I can hear the torque converter clunk, So I will rip the inspection plate off and check that the bolts are tight etc

Sounds like a couple different things going on maybe excessive crank end play IE worn thrust bearing. If you have or can borrow a dial indicator you could measure that so you know. X2 on doing a compression test you will learn a lot about the condition of the engine, another is to hook up a mech. oil gauge that will give you a tip on bearing wear. Being a 144 you will have mech cam so just warm engine up and set the valve to fact. setting for solids is 0.016" with engine warmed up good.

Remember when setting solid lifters with a feeler guage, make sure the rocker arm is not worn otherwise your .016" setting may end up closer to .025" if the rocker arm is worn.
If you had a P&G dial indicator valve gapping tool that takes into the effect of worn rocker arms where they contact the valve stem. Bill