Autolite 1100 refurb / Are there different 1100's ?

Route--66--

Route--66--

Well-known member
Hi

My plugs always seem to be furry black even though the mixture screw is set on the lean side. (or at least the middle 4 plugs)
Bubba said that my float level may be too high so I'm wanting to at least take the top off the carb and check or replace the float needle.
Q1. I've never had one of these apart but assume that a needle plugs a hole in the top of the carb when the float reaches a certain level .. assume this is adjustable by screwing the needle up or down???? ..

Q2. I assume if I remove the top of my carb to adjust this, the 'big' gasket would break?
so at a minimum want to get my hands on one of those before I take it apart. I was thinking of getting a whole kit so that I, or someone who at least has a carb background, could replace a few parts...???

Q3. Another big question though - Are there different types of 1100?? .. There are some I've seen with a spark control valve on the side .. mine hasn't got this.
Is mine a particular model???.. or were 1100's all the same, just some with and some without the spark valve
(pic below of mine)
I have a 1965, 200ci with C4 Auto.

Would this kit be the right one, even though it has the (spark?) valve ?!?
http://shop.autocraftinvestments.com/products/9A586_1-107431-409.html

..and finally .. Question 4... If I do take the top off am I in for a world of pain and be having things spring out of place or will it just drop back on with no problem??

THANKS LOADS!!!
carb1100.jpg
 
Some conjecture backed up by opinion: 8)


Hi..plugs always seem to be furry black .. assume that a needle plugs a hole in the top of the carb when the float reaches a certain level .. assume this is adjustable by screwing the needle up or down???? ..

> You're close- Float level usually set by bending tab that pushes needle that plugs hole in top... Most rebuild kits list correct level by measuring upside down where float rests - once apart it'll be apparent.

Q2. I assume if I remove the top of my carb to adjust this, the 'big' gasket would break?
so at a minimum want to get my hands on one of those before I take it apart. I was thinking of getting a whole kit so that I, or someone who at least has a carb background, could replace a few parts...???

> "Carb Kit or generically called "Jiffy Kit" should have needed gaskets and maybe SCV if applicable. These days be @ 20£ / $ 35

Q3. Another big question though - Are there different types of 1100?? .. There are some I've seen with a spark control valve on the side .. mine hasn't got this. Would this kit be the right one, even though it has the (spark?) valve ?!?
http://shop.autocraftinvestments.com/pr ... 1-409.html

> Probably right kit if your engine is original, earlier 1100's did have SCV and kit for say '63 should include it depending on Mfg. carb Kits usually include parts for most versions across years so may have extra or unusable parts. 'think 1100 W/O SCV were 1101's but still generically called 1100's....

Question 4... If I do take the top off am I in for a world of pain and be having things spring out of place or will it just drop back on with no problem??

WARNING ! 1100's do have ball stops that will drop and roll around floor if turned over. Rebuild kits usually include balls ( sic), like small and smaller BB's AND a nice schematic / blowup drawing. Drawing is probably available on the forum or googl'd.

> Relax, you sure are asking the right questions so you should have no trouble playing with the carb ;)

PS Only idle has any "jet" adjustment for fuel/air mix, there is NO adjustments at any position past idle other than how float level affects A/F mix. Otherwise swapping "jets" or carbs is only" adjustment" of fuel delivery at speed.




Have Fun
 
autolite carb how does one replace the power valve? or fix it? buy a replacement? seems to be the problem with my autolite. 8)
 
It looks like you have a 1967 to 1969 Autolite for an Auto trans application. Basically their are two type's of 1V Autolite carburetors 1100 (with the SCV valve) & 1101 (without a SCV) these were used on 1966 & 1967 California emissions and the later 1968 to 1969 50-state cars many stilled call them a 1100 too. That looks like the right carb kit most of the kits nowadays will have more (extra) parts than you need. IE Both the 1100 and 1101 will use the same kit to service them. If your going to buy the kit you should go ahead clean it with a good carb cleaner and do a complete rebuild 1V carbs are about as easy as it gets. Also clean the hinge pin good so that the float moves freely. Check to see that the float is in good usable condition (not too heavy). As was said already kits will have the float level setting take extra care do do it right and it will be very close. Also check the float drop measurement too both are adjusted by bending the tabs.
 
I'll add a little bit. If you still have the LOM distributor, thats the wrong carb, requires the SCV valve. If 68 or later distributor, you are fine. The "power valve"(internal) is listed as non serviceable/removal. Don't confuse with SCV valve that looks like a Holley power valve. Kit's come with extra parts to cover different model carbs.
 
Wow, thanks for those excellent responses, really appreciate it!

Powerband - thanks for that, ahhh.. even though I knew the idle screw was called so, for some reason I thought that made a difference to the running mixture .. right .. I will get one of those repair kits for sure then.

It looks as though it has had a new gasket at some point as on the driver's side the gasket sticks out from the carb .. (see pic below)

Cheers (again) Bubba .. I took more pics of the carb this morning for ID purposes and saw a noticeable difference between this and others in that it seems to be missing the rod that comes out of the top of the float chamber and onto one of the 'pumps' - see pic with green arrow.. what does this mean ...???? .. is this a bodged job??? and what are the two arms/pumps onthe side of the carbs - I assume one is the accelerator pump .??.. and the other one ??

carb2-1.jpg


Does this '5' mean anything ..???
carb4.jpg


another pic looking stright down ..
carb3.jpg


more pics to come of dist...
 
Thanks Explorer, appreciate your thoughts.

From my zero knowledge of these but searching around I'm thinking this is a '67 to '71 distributor . ..maybe 70-71? As you can see in the pic it is labled 'Autolite' and not Fomoco.. BUT it has an oil hole .. you can juuust about see it at bottom of this pic.. which according to http://www.mustangmonthly.com/techarticles/mump_0602_vintage_mustang_distributors/viewall.html means it is a 64 1/2 fomoco..??? :unsure: confused!!

This is my distributor ... is this correct for the carb .. seems to work perfectly fine..
dist2.jpg


Code Close-up

dist1.jpg


CHEERS!
 
Lets start simple which may help determining what you are working with:

Lower right side (drivers position) of engine by starter should have an engine build code like C6DE-xx, might be helpful as different parts and engines are often swapped during almost 40 years. Also on top of intake "log" facing up behind carb is similar Head code . Deciphered: C = 1960's (D=70's...) and next digit is year of casting origin {not necessarily casting date). There are early and later carbs and distributors (different drive shafts from oil pump) that may/may not be original.
 
powerband":mx35bfr1 said:
Lets start simple which may help determining what you are working with:

Lower right side (drivers position) of engine by starter should have an engine build code like C6DE-xx, might be helpful as different parts and engines are often swapped during almost 40 years. Also on top of intake "log" facing up behind carb is similar Head code . Deciphered: C = 1960's (D=70's...) and next digit is year of casting origin {not necessarily casting date). There are early and later carbs and distributors (different drive shafts from oil pump) that may/may not be original.
Click to expand...

Just been out to look ..
(Just started snowing here .. which we only get for maybe 2/3 weeks a year .. notice it's sitting in the garage while the others have to sit outside ;) )
http://s1244.photobucket.com/albums/gg572/Route66uk/?action=view&current=snow.jpg
engine code is C5DE .. so is '65 (correct for the car)
intake log is C3DE ..8480 A .. ah but you're saying that's the origin (location) .. not the year .. that's good to know - I'd have naturally assumed it was a '63 head!
 
My carburetor looks very much like yours. I have a '66 Mustang, C4 automatic and my car was built for and lived most of its life in California. I have been told by the guys here that a California emissions equipped car did not have the SCV carb or the LOM distributor. Does or did your car have California emissions equipment on it?
As far as rebuilding your carburetor, If I can take one apart, clean it and put it back together without messing it up, anyone with a bit of mechanical knowledge can do it. I bought a kit from the local parts house that worked fine. I needed one of the plastic pieces that does not come in the kit and ended up going to Daytona Parts Co. to get the parts I needed. When talking to the gentleman at Daytona, (I can’t remember his name) he told me that the parts house kits like I used were of questionable quality and recommended the one he sells. I ended up buying his kit along with the parts I needed to repair my carburetor. I have not yet used the new rebuild kit so I can’t comment on the quality but it appears to be good from the outside looking in, and it is made in the USA, not Taiwan like the kit I used the first time. The value of the information I got from Daytona on repairing an issue I was having with my carburetor far exceeded the cost of the kit and other parts I bought.
http://www.daytonaparts.com/
 
Great, thanks for the link Jimlj, I'll have a look at that and see if they export.

My car was originally built for Canada.. I know it was imported to the Uk from Seattle and just before then lived on orcas island which is in the US although right on the border.
Does yours have that top rod missing too ??

Cheers (y)

EDIT - just looked at daytona site which shows no 'rod' at the top of the 1100 carb, same as mine!.. so maybe it is 'normal'
http://www.daytonaparts.com/findyourcarb.html
 
Route--66--":35c1j2xx said:
Wow, thanks for those excellent responses, really appreciate it!

Powerband - thanks for that, ahhh.. even though I knew the idle screw was called so, for some reason I thought that made a difference to the running mixture .. right .. I will get one of those repair kits for sure then.

It looks as though it has had a new gasket at some point as on the driver's side the gasket sticks out from the carb .. (see pic below)

Cheers (again) Bubba .. I took more pics of the carb this morning for ID purposes and saw a noticeable difference between this and others in that it seems to be missing the rod that comes out of the top of the float chamber and onto one of the 'pumps' - see pic with green arrow.. what does this mean ...???? .. is this a bodged job??? and what are the two arms/pumps onthe side of the carbs - I assume one is the accelerator pump .??.. and the other one ??

carb2-1.jpg


Yes this is the accel pump on that picture, your's is a later carb they don't all have the rod at top. The linkage for the accel pump is at the bottom when you have carb off for rebuild you may need to adjust this for correct measurement it's done by bending the rod a Little. The second pump on other side is a anti stall dash pot this is what makes it a 67 up carb for an auto trans. Some autolite carbs will have I'd # on base of carb. On casting numbers there is a little more info that will help zero in on correct year of a part. There will be a date code looks kind of like a little plate screwed on a block or head etc. it will have a number a letter and one or two additional numbers this will give you the exact day it was cast. Doing some detective work you can find out if you have correct year of parts.

Does this '5' mean anything ..???
carb4.jpg


another pic looking stright down ..
carb3.jpg


more pics to come of dist...
Click to expand...
 
Route--66--":2lrt7e7y said:
Great, thanks for the link Jimlj, I'll have a look at that and see if they export.

My car was originally built for Canada.. I know it was imported to the Uk from Seattle and just before then lived on orcas island which is in the US although right on the border.
Does yours have that top rod missing too ??

Cheers (y)

EDIT - just looked at daytona site which shows no 'rod' at the top of the 1100 carb, same as mine!.. so maybe it is 'normal'
http://www.daytonaparts.com/findyourcarb.html
Click to expand...

My carburetor does not have the top rod as well, looks just like yours. I don't know if it is origional or not, but I'm not worried about it as I am building a '82 head and milling it for a 2100 carburetor. At my speed and funding it may take a year to get it done.
 
A couple more points of clarification- model 1100 vrs 1101 is NOT determined based on SCV or not, 1100 is a smaller sized carb that typically came on 170/200 ci engines, 1101 is same design but a bit larger throttle bore/plate and sized to fit 240/250 engines. Early 1100s and 1101s up to about 1968 have the SCV, 1100s and 1101s from 1968+ typically do not. As mentioned before, the carb and distributor must be matched SCV or matched non-SCV. On your car, you have a non-SCV 1100 carb and a non-SCV distributor so while they are not original to your '65 (the distributor is from a 1970) they are a matched pair and will work correctly.

As far as the cap in the vent opening, I have seen this on many rebuilt carbs and even if it had a vent rod to start with, the carbs seem to work fine with the vent hole capped.
 
Autolite's 1100 series carbs had 3 different Venturi sizes of 1.00 1.10 & 1.20. The 200 engines need at least a 1.10 and the performance is better yet with the 1.20. The venturi is removable so it could be changed.
 
Interesting cheers .. will look out when I order .. no idea what I have in but guess the cost of a venturi would be minimal..
Cheers (y) (y)
 
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