Autolite 1100 refurb / Are there different 1100's ?

bubba, the venturi is the plastic peice down the carb right? if so, where can you get them? if I had known one can trade sizes I might have tested it.
 
the venturi is the plastic peice down the carb right? if so, where can you get them

That's a good question. I've never seen them sold separately and definitely not in a rebuild kit. I picked up some cheap parts-only (junk) carbs at swaps and eBay and only one had the larger Venturi. I broke it trying to get it out, may be cemented? , or just too long in place. . :unsure:

 
MPGmustang wrote:
bubba, the venturi is the plastic peice down the carb right? if so, where can you get them? if I had known one can trade sizes I might have tested it.
Click to expand...

That's good question but I have never tried to get them separate I am sure they were once available new. Maybe Pony carbs might have them don't know the status of the company as of late. I also use to pickup used cores and get parts that way. It's going to be hard to remove them without a very good cleaning, most of times I soak them in a good carb cleaner. Or else maybe just use the lower carb body with the 1.20 venturi intact if you can't locate it separate.
 
:) Hi route 66.IIRC,the circle below the "5" in the one pic tells the shift,time,day and date that the casting was made.If FTF or xctasy is around,maybe they can confirm this.
Good luck.Have fun.Be safe.
Leo
 
Interesting on the carb date thing.
I was looking through the few old invoices that came with the car tonight to find the name and address of the last US owner and came across this!!!

It's from 2003 which would have been just before the car came to the UK ..
it details a 'Reb Carb' which I assume is a rebuilt carb and the next line I am thinking is the part exchange value for the original .. assume that would that be right for the money paid..? $157 seems very cheap..??.. although you do tend to pay a LOT less for things in the USA .. it's rip-off Britain over here >:/

If this is the case then surely I don't need a rebuild kit as it will have been done a few thousand miles ago at most?!

SO.. IF this is true .. I assume the only thing about the carb that could be causing it to run rich WOULD be an over-high float level?????? .. and if so can I take the top off while it's still on the car and try to adjust it that way to avoid the faff of taking it off ???
THANKS agian (y)

invoice.jpg
 
With it off and flipped over measure distance what you have between the carb top and float. Increasing the distance will lower the fuel level in bowl and decreasing it will raise fuel level. I think normal setting is about 3/16 or level. You could also measure the heigh of the fuel in bowl for reference wet level measurement is more accurate.
 
Cool cheers (y)
Not sure what wet level measurement is .. but if the measurement is not at least 3/16 I'll increase it.
Is there any problem if I make the float a bit lower than 3/16"..?

If the plugs still stay sooty black after that I'm not sure what could be happening .. I read on fordsix that clack furry plugs could be caused by too 'cold' plugs .. never heard that before .. hope i Have the right type..
If it makes any difference our temperatures here I imagine are similar ish to new york maybe ..?.. hottest it gets in summer would usually be in the 80's..
 
Yes you can vary it some but be careful not to change it much from the factory setting (don’t have my books handy for that spec) try adding 1/32 to a 1/16 inch. The float height is very important for correct fuel distribution. If it's too low leans out the mixture and stall out and too high, you get flooding or a rich mixture. While you have the top off check to see that the float itself is not too heavy brass ones can get pin holes and you shake them you can hear the fuel slouching inside you can dry them out and solder the hole. On the nitro type floats if they have absorbed fuel you would need to replace it. You might also see what jet number you have when it’s open

Plugs you probably should use a stock or 1 range hotter for mostly stop and go and short trip type driving. For mostly faster highway driving than you could use 1 to 2 ranges colder. I don’t known the fuel you use there in the UK (leaded or unleaded). But in the old days (and leaded fuel) with a fresh set of plugs after driving 500 miles pull plugs don’t let it idle much. Or getting wormed up good put in neutral shut it off and pull over (make sure you can do this safely) pull plugs you would be looking for a med. tan color with unleaded is going to be a bit lighter. The trouble with the inline sixes is the fuel is not even to all cylinders so not going to match center two will be a little richer and leaner etc. as you move out.
 
It's a small world, that auto parts store on the receipt is less than 10 miles from my house! I actually bought the last couple Victor Reinz thin head gaskets for the 200 that were in the local area from them a few years ago.
 
mustang6":17xe3fdm said:
It's a small world, that auto parts store on the receipt is less than 10 miles from my house! I actually bought the last couple Victor Reinz thin head gaskets for the 200 that were in the local area from them a few years ago.
Click to expand...

FANTASTIC ! that's really weird!!
The guy who had it in America just before it came to the UK as far as I can tell lives in
J Street SE
Auburn
WA
if that means anything to you??!

I was looking to write him a letter to see what had already been done on it out of interest AND if he had any history on it in the sense of where it has lived since 1965 .. I'd really like to find stuff out about the car like that.. !

Thanks for the link xctasy ..will have a nose at that cheers!
Cheers :D
 
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